I am utterly unprepared for the delights that Valetta, the capital of Malta, has to offer. I have heard of the beauty of the Greek Islands, the party scene and endless nights that Ibiza has to offer but I seem to have missed Malta altogether. This island in the Western Mediterranean sits there all on her own. Not unheard of but certainly overlooked, by me at least.
As we ascend to deck and witness Valetta and its Grand Harbour spread out before us, however, I realise that perhaps I’m the only one that may have overlooked it. The stone buildings that seem to have crept up onto the land from the harbour below shine in the sunlight and the blue of the sky only makes them glisten even more.
The boys are happily checked in at the kids’ club and we make our way down to Deck 4 to disembark the ship as we embark on yet another adventure.
We begin the steep climb up the steps (rather than taking the lift) to the Upper Baraka Gardens. The gardens were once used for recreation by the Order of the Knights of St John and offer a quiet place to reflect as well as sweeping views of the harbor across to Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua, the three cities. I spy a ferry that crosses over from the waterfront just below and I flag it as a possibility for later.
From the gardens we walk through Castille Place, past the Aubergy Castille, the home of the Order of the Knights of St John after they were tossed out of Rhodes during the 16th Century. Now the building houses the Office of the Prime Minister of Malta. We follow the Trig San Pawl, passing a multitude of fabulous buildings made distinctly Malta by their wonderful balconies and interest door handles.
As we reach Fort St Elmo I am keen, as always, to go inside and take a look. The fort played an important part in the protection of Valetta and indeed the survival of Christianity, during the time of the Knights of St John. Or perhaps, because of them. It is said that the very future of Christendom was saved in 1565 during the Great Seige of Malta when Jean Pariso de Valette refused to yield to Suliamen the Magnificent’s Ottoman troops. Despite being only 700 men strong, the Knights withheld brutal attack and fought fiercely to defend their stronghold.
The fort is large and the rooms containing the exhibits are scattered around the star shaped complex. They are well thought out and interesting though and we spend more time exploring here than intended.
After a couple of hours I am reminded that there are other things on my list and a whole city still to explore. We emerge back out into the street and make our way around to the tip of Valetta where Fort St Emlo sits to the bay of the same name, St Elmo Bay. There are boats about and people swimming off the rocks in the harbor. The water looks inviting but the rocky climb back out does not.
We delve back into the city, up a set of steep and narrow steps on Old Theater Street to where St. Paul’s Anglican Cathedral should be. Unfortunately it appears to be closed. Perhaps under renovation but it is unclear and there are no signs and no one to ask. Undeterred, there is the Oratory of the Fraternity of Our Lady and the Carmelite Church a little further along. This one is open though you wouldn’t know it if you weren’t specifically looking. Even the front door way does nothing to suggest what is hidden away inside.
I sit down on a pew to take a moment to contemplate life. The church is beautiful and there are a good deal more people in here that I anticipated given how subtle it is on the outside. I note the Italian Renaissance influence. The frescoes, sculptures and the height of the dome!
Outside again and I’m ready for a coffee. We find a little espresso bar and I perch myself on a seat outside to drink it. Jason waits, somewhat impatient. He wants to find a proper cafe to sit down in, perhaps some lunch. It is getting to that time of day.
A little further up Old Theater Street we stumble across the perfect local place for some lunch. The food smells amazing and it has a wonderful atmosphere, there are carafes of wine on the tables. We ask for a table for two though it’s unclear. We will have have to wait. For how long, we’re not sure. With regret we deem the wait too long, there are already several groups waiting ahead of us. We move a few doors up to an unremarkable looking place and although I gaze longingly at the carafes while I eat my sandwich, at least we can sit down. I am disappointed but I want to keep moving too.
After lunch we explore some more. The streets are picturesque and becoming busier. I work through my list and as we walk to each one it is apparent that nothing is open. It’s Thursday and the reason for this is not apparent. We walk all the way up to the Gate of Valetta and then back to Misrah San Gorg (St George’s Square). I haven’t been able to find the Palace of the Grand Master and I can tell Jason isn’t up for any more churches or museums, even if we could find one that was open. I must be missing something!
We pause for gelato and consider our options. Both of us agree that we have seen what we can that is open (that we can find!) and so we decide to head out past the city gates. We walk, happy to stop for an aperitif if we can find one. We don’t. But we do come back to the waterfront where those ferries were leaving from this morning. I insist that we have time, even though it might be cutting it a bit fine. After being assured that they stick to the timetable, surely we have enough time.
We climb aboard as the shadows are beginning to stretch. The views on all sides from the middle of the Grand Harbor are indeed, grand. I am struck with a desire to stay longer as there is much more to be discovered – I know there is another whole list of sights in the three cities.
We hop off the ferry and take a stroll, not wanting to wander too far, just in case we miss the ride back. We come across a game of water polo played from kayaks. It looks hard and the players are fierce. We watch for a time and I take off my shoes and stretch my tired legs out on the patch of cold grass.
It’s not long before we have to board the ferry back. At least there are some more lovely, Venice like views to enjoy – with Birgu on one side and Senglea on the other. The Forti Sant’ Angelo peering down on us in the twilight.
We do make it back in time, glad that we had the chance for the extra stop and to admire the city’s glow as we depart the Grand Harbor. It’s dark now and the city is lit up. The waterfront, glowing churches and gardens, the waterfront and the Fort. It is a city not to be overlooked.
Would I Return?
Yes. I hope I can find the Grand Master’s Palace next time. I must have been having an off day!