Not a trip for the unyielding traveler, finding your way from Xi’an city to the Terracotta Warriors is an exercise in patience and luck.
We set out from our hotel with views of catching the very reasonably priced local bus out to the site of the Warriors, around an hours’ drive away. Opting for public transport to where the buses depart in front of the Xi’an train station, it takes us nearly an hour to navigate our way to the teeming car park where the line looks as though it could be another hour wait, if not more.
Although I have already fobbed off several offers of a private car I turn around to see Jason negotiating a ride. Clearly the site of the queues was not what he had in mind either. I am hesitant to jump into a car with someone we don’t know in a country where we don’t speak the language and our driver can communicate only a little. I have to say though, as I sink into the air conditioned comfort of the back seat, it’s times like these I’m grateful for my husband taking over my otherwise well laid plans!
The car trip is cool and quiet, all you can really expect from a car ride. We have no idea how long it will take or if we’re on track but all of a sudden there are crowds and as we arrive we know we must be close to something big. The car park is a walk from the ticketing area and it’s all quite confusing. Now I’m grateful that our driver has walked us to the ticket booth and arranged our tickets for us. He then funnels us through the myriad of shops, stalls and restaurants to the actual entry which is not as clearly marked or easily identifiable as you might think.
After passing through the initial ticket gate there is a toilet block a short distance ahead. After this there is a walk of about a kilometer or so through gardens to a security gate. Then you’re finally in the vicinity.
Once inside the security gate I bubble over with excitement. There are three main buildings visible. The building directly ahead is Pit 1, next to that on the left is the entrance to Pit 3 and on the far right is a Museum. Pit 2 is at the back next to Pit 1 and behind Pit 3.
Most head directly to Pit 1 which is enormous and the crowds around the entrance are overwhelming. We opt to start off in the Museum (guide tip) and then worked our way through Pit 2 and 3 before arriving in Pit 1. Pit 3 is the newest find and still has the most excavation to be done and it’s interesting to see the work in progress and understand the enormity of the exercise before beholding Pit 1 which is contained in a space the size of a large airplane hanger. We also enter from the back of Pit 1 and work our way to the front (against the foot traffic) for great photos on the stairs, just above where the original well sink hole is, the site where three farmers found the Terracotta Army in 1974.
Known as the Command Centre, Pit 3 was discovered in June 1976. It’s small compared to the other two, measuring 28.8m long (east to west), 24.5m wide (north to south) and is between 5.2 and 5.4m deep. At some point in its history, the figures laid out in the U shape formation have suffered damage. As a result only 68 pottery figures, one chariot and 34 bronze weapons have been unearthed. These are still incredible.
Getting There
By Bus: Buses (#306) leave frequently, ask for directions and be prepared to queue and wait to get on as the crowds can be insane, particularly in the summer months when many Chinese take their holidays.
By Tour: Group tours for the Terracotta Warriors can be booked through most accommodation.
Private Tour: Hotels may offer private tours. Most are run independently and only organised by the hotel. Be sure to confirm what your tour includes (i.e. transport, tickets, driver, tour guide) and that they will pick up/drop off to your accommodation.
Many private tour operators operate Terracotta Warriors tours from the bus station and may approach tourists offering their services. These are a good option in bad (extreme hot or cold) weather. Once again, be sure to confirm what is included up front. It is also a good idea to agree on a price up front (don’t be afraid to bargain). It helps if you have an idea of how much the hotel run private tours are to compare. Note that a tour guide is not the same as a driver. A driver will drive you to the location and may or may not help you buy tickets to the site – they will then meet you again at an agreed place/time and drive you back. A tour guide should come into the site with you and walk you through, explaining history, facts, statistics and trivia along the way. Make sure they are fluent (easily understandable) in your native tongue before embarking with a tour guide.
Good To Know
On arrival, if you have a tour guide, they will buy tickets for you or show you to the ticket booth. If you have a driver, they may show you the ticket booth or will drop you off with directions on how to get to the ticket window. Make sure to agree on a time and place to meet your driver afterwards and exchange phone numbers where possible.
If you have arrived on the bus, take note of where the return bus leaves from and the timetable. At least note the time for return of the last bus.
As a general guide 3 – 4 hours should be sufficient to see the Terracotta Warriors and have a browse through the souvenir shops afterwards. If you plan on sitting down for lunch or need rest stops in between walking and standing, allow more time. Also note that once inside the gates there are more limited options for purchasing food and drink. Water and snacks are available from stall vendors however if you’re after a meal, have something to eat before you enter or be prepared to wait until after you’re done.
Would I Return?
Yes. I’d return to learn more about these fascinating Terracotta Warriors and perhaps explore the area around the immediate warrior site, including the Mausoleum. I’d choose a more moderate time of year and do my research before hand so that I could focus on facts that I’m interested in as once you’re in the Pits, the experience can be somewhat overwhelming.
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