Walking Bucharest

Walking Bucharest is a tourist’s delight. The compact old town and nearby historic sites are a walker’s delight. Even the relatively long (4.7km) between the Triumphal Arch in the north and the Palace of Parliament at the south end of town, could be covered with a brisk, yet picturesque stroll. There is one problem and that’s the risk of being sidetracked by the myriad of wonderful distractions in between.

Here are my Top 15 sights whilst Walking Bucharest.

1. The Triumphal Arch

Built in memory of WWII troops, this 27m high granite arch also commemorates the coronation of the King Ferndinand and his wife, Marie. It contains internal stairs for access to city views from the rooftop platform.

The current structure replaces another arch made of concrete and plaster erected after WWI in 1922. Prior to this, a wooden arch stood in this spot. Victorious troops returned to the city through this hastily built wooden arch in 1878 after Romania gained its independence.

The current arch is active during the celebration Romanian National Day each 1 December where military parades pass through the centre.

From the Triumphal Arch, walk south along Sosseaua Pavel D. Kiseleff through the middle of Kiseleff Park where, if you have time you can stop off at several museums including:

• Museum for Romanian Folk Culture
• Geological Museum
• Nicolae Iorga Institute of History
• Museum of Natural History

The very pretty Casa Doina sits at the northern end of the park.

Past the park, continue along Calea Victoriei, past the Museum of Art Collections until you arrive at the Romanian Athenaeum on your left.

2. The Romanian Athenaeum

The Romanian Athenaeum (Temple of Arts) is a significant monument in the centre of Bucharest. The concert hall and theatre opened in 1888 and still serves this purpose today. Prominent acts include the George Enescu Philharmonic.

The neoclassical style with its ornate, domed roof is thanks to the design of a French architect. Interestingly, it is the site of the conference where the three remaining independent principalities voted to join the Romanian Old Kingdom to unite as Greater Romania in 1919.

In 1992 the crumbling theatre underwent a EUR9m reconstruction to restore it to the former glory that it enjoys today.

The theatre seats 800 and tonight there is an audience gathering for the Apollo Quartet performance. The quartet of violin, viola, cello and piano are playing Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s Piano Quartet in E flat major, KV493 and Johannes Brahms Piano Quartet in G minor, op. 25.

While I consider purchasing a ticket and staying for the concert, there is too much to see walking Bucharest and after a quick peek inside, I keep walking.

Continuing south along Calea Victoriei, past the Royal Palace of Burcharest which houses the National Art Museum (on your right). Turn left onto Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and a block on you will come to the University of Bucharest (on your left), with the University’s Square (half circle facade) on your right).

Cross the road and head between the two semi circular buildings and you’ll come across the St. Nicolas Church directly ahead.

3. St. Nicholas Church

The St. Nicholas Church is a Russian church located just off University Square. Erected in 1905 with funds provided by the Court of Emperor Nicholas II, the build was specifically for Russians living in Romania. Completed in 1909, the site remained closed during WWI, at which time its valuables were transported to Iasi and then Saint Petersburg. They were never seen again.

Today the church serves the students of the University of Bucharest who dedicate the church to missionary work.

After admiring the sunlight reflecting off the domes, turn right down Strada Ion Ghica until you reach the National Bank of Romania at the next corner.

4. The National Bank of Romania

A little further along from Lipscani Street, the façade of the National Bank of Romania rises where the Serban Voda Inn once stood. Once the largest inn in Bucharest, the Serban Voda Inn was demolished in 1883 to make way for the new bank, constructed under the direction of architects Cassien Bernard and Albert Galleron.

The main façade, visible from Lipscani Street, was built between 1939 and 1942 under the direction of architect Radu Dudescu, who incorporated elegant neo-classical elements into the design. Clad in Vratsa stone, the building exudes a refined, timeless classicist charm.

Some archaeological research revealed ruins of a Roman arch lying beneath the Bank Palace in Lipscani Street. These have been preserved and are visible through a viewing window in the street.

Continue walking Bucharest along Lipscani with the ruins on your right and follow the Bank Palace building around to your right. On Strada Eugeniu Carada you’ll find the entrance to Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse.

5. Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse

These elegant passages, the Macca and Villacrosse, come into their own once the sun sets as a lively spot for dinner and shisha. Due to the covered passage between the buildings, the seating has a feeling of being outside whilst still protecting diners from the weather.

The passage’s name has an interesting story attached to it. Apparently some time towards the end of the 19th Century, the high official Serafim, a translator who worked for the French Consulate in Bucharest, bought the estate. At the time, the area was known as the Doamnei Slum, located towards the Mogosoaia Bridge. Years later, Serafim divided the estate as a dowry to his daughters, Polixenia and Anastasia. Polixenia married Xavier Villacrosse, Chief Architect of Bucharest (in 1839) and Mihail Mecca, a fur merchant and liberal politician married Anastasia (in 1841). It was not customary at the time to name the buildings (or the passages in between) after his daughters, so Serafim honored them via their husbands (and as such their married names).

After discovering the passages, continue walking Bucharest by turning left back out onto Calea Victoriei and head towards CEC Palace.

6. The CEC Palace – Palace of the Savings Bank

The Casa de Economii si Consemnatiuni (Palace of Deposits/Savings and Consignments) is Bucharest’s iconic bank building. It was built in the ‘most authentic’ of French Baroque styles between 1896 – 1900 under the direction of the French architect Paul Gottereau.

The bank stands on the site of a previously demolished monastery and St. John the Great Church (circa 16th century) which had an adjoining inn. Historians believe the former monastery inn briefly served as the headquarters of the House of Deposits, the first Romanian state banking institution founded in 1864, and the direct predecessor of CEC Bank.

CEC Bank still operates here today, though the magnificent building, with its ornate architecture and glass-panelled dome, now also serves as an elegant venue for special events and celebrations. Crown Princess Margareta of Romania held her 60th birthday celebrations here (in 2009) and her charity’s 25th anniversary celebrations (in 2015).

Tonight in the clear, crisp twilight the whole building seems to glow gold with the setting sun. A good sign for a bank, I’m sure.

On the other side of the road is the equally impressive facade of the National History Museum of Romania.

7. The National History Museum of Romania

This building, previously known as the Post Palace, was built between 1894-1900. The Romanian architect, Alexandru Savulescu, took inspiration from the Palace of the Federal Post in Geneva. It became Romania’s Natural History Museum in 1968.

Today, in the Treasure Chamber, more than 2,000 items of precious metals, gold and silver are displayed. These treasures date back from antiquity to the Middle Ages and through to modern times. They cover artefacts that include religious objects, coins, arms and gears, and other valuables.

Among the most treasured pieces are those discovered at Pietroasele (or the Petrossa Treasure). Found in a commune of the same name, there are twelve (of an original 220 gold objects that survive. The objects are fourth century Gothic pieces, including a large eagle headed fibula, a sacrificial dish, a twelve sided cup and a ring with Gothic runic inscription. They were discovered in 1837. In 1916 they were shipped to Moscow (along with many other national and local treasures) but were, thankfully, finally returned in 1956.

Amongst the Museum’s other prized possessions are the coronation crowns of the royal couple Ferdinand and Maria de Hohenzollem, from 1922. The lower floor displays a life-sized copy of Rome’s famous triumphal monument, Trajan’s Column (Rome, 113AD), while the upper floors house items made of marble, limestone and sandstone discovered in Romania that date as far back as antiquity.

Continue on your walking Bucharest tour. At Str. Franceza, turn left along the southern wall of the museum and follow the cobblestones for about 300m until you find the The Old Court on your left hand side.

8. Curtea Veche Museum & Church – The Voievodal Palace & Old Court Church

This 14th century fortress is closed for reconstruction as I approach. So covered in scaffolding are the crumbling ruins that I also miss the entire site.

Luckily I walk past the Annunciation Church (Church of Old Court) and realise where I am. Turning back, I find the oldest preserved church in Bucharest.

Founded by Mircea Ciobanul in 1559, the site first served as a sanctuary where Romanian kings crowned themselves and attended church services. After a major fire in 1847, builders repaired the structure and renamed it after the nearby St. Anton Church. Between 1928 and 1935, architects rebuilt it, restoring much of its original architecture and historic character.

There is a church service on as I wander up to have a closer look so tonight I just peek through the door before back tracking for a closer inspection of the palace.

The neighbouring medieval palace, Curtea Veche, dates back to the 14th century when Mircea cel Bătrân built it. Vlad III (Vlad the Impaler) and later voievodals expanded and restructured the palace, giving it the name it carries today. Constantin Brancoveanu, Prince of Wallachia, lived here and it was he who redesigned and extended the complex (between 1690 – 1714) including courtyard, main building, guard wings, watch tower and baths.

Abandoned by the new king, Alexander Ypsilantis in 1775, incredibly, the residence only began excavations and archaeological investigations in 1967. Archaeologists uncovered old streets and cleared several houses to open the Old Court Museum to the public in 1972. Today, the site once again awaits attention, as it remains temporarily closed for restoration. In 1972, archaeologists uncovered old streets and demolished nearby houses to open the Old Court Museum to the public. The site now needs further restoration work and remains temporarily closed.

Across from the church and adjacent to St. Antony Square is Manuc’s Inn and Restaurant.

9. Manuc’s Inn

The façades of Manuc’s Inn represent one of the few inns that were kept in Bucharest in their original form. The inn is named after Emanuel Mârzaian, known locally by his Turkish name, Manuc Bei. Born in 1769 from a family with origins in Karpi, a village in the Ararat region, he was a wealthy Armenian merchant endowed with exceptional qualities: handsome, intelligent and cultivated.

The inn itself reflects the old architectural style of inns, in particular, the beautiful wooden columns which sustain the visually pleasing striplite arches which surround the courtyard. It functioned as one of the most important commercial hubs in Bucharest with 25 retail shops and 107 guest rooms while the courtyard hosted a pub in the gardens and a fountain. The pub and fountain remain today.

Back on into the Square from Manuc’s Inn, make your way out onto the main thoroughfare, Bulevardul Ion C. Bratianu and cross over to the other side where you’ll find a lovely park boasting the New St. George Church.

10. The New St George Church

The the New St. George Church sits in a park with an interesting history. Archeological excavations indicate the presence of 15th century church foundations beneath the current structure. During the 16th and 17th centuries, builders added an inn, walls, and cells, transforming the area into a monastic complex that served as a thriving trade hub. The complex and its surroundings often functioned as a busy marketplace. In the early 18th century, workers demolished the old church and erected a new one in its place. During the next 200 years, two major fires and an earthquake ruined parts of the church and surrounding structures. The church was repaired and rebuilt.

Today, it is only the church that remains, surrounded by lush park, albeit in the center of the city.

Inside, the frescos, most of which are new, deliver a riot of color. However, the church does retain some history. Guilt silver coated relics of St Nicholas are displayed here having been brought to Wallacia in 1599 by Michael the Brave.

Prince Constantin Brâncoveanu, who ruled from 1688 to 1714, lies here, a fitting resting place for the man who built this remarkable structure. He left a lasting mark on Romanian culture, especially through Brâncovenesc art, shaping architecture, painting and sculpture with his visionary patronage.

A short stroll away, Coltea Hospital tells its own story. Founded in 1704 on land once owned by the Vacaresti family, the original building didn’t survive the 1802 earthquake. Today, the elegant neoclassical hospital dates from 1888. It still serves patients, so visitors need an appointment to step inside, but even from the outside, its history and architecture are striking.

Cross back over Bulevardul Ion C. Bratianu and continue walking Bucharest through Roma Square with its statue of the Capitoline Wolf onto Lipscani Street.

11. The Linden Tree Inn

Just past the first lane way on the right, heading back into the old town, at No. 65. Strada Lipscani, is the old Linden Tree Inn. Built in 1833 by two of the city’s rich merchants, Anastasie Hagi Gheorghe Polizu and Stefan Popovici, the Blănari Street entrance still bears the original “seal” of the first owners (“A.P.” and “S.P.”).

Nowadays, the passage linking the streets Lipscani and Blanari. It is home to workshops, art galleries and antique stores, the shopfronts decorated with ornate, forged iron gates located on top of deep, vaulted cellars. A lovely distraction to walking Bucharest or perhaps a good spot to return to.

12. Stavropoleos Church

Stavropoleos Church surprises with its delicate beauty. Built in the Brâncoveanu style, its intricate carvings and elegant details invite closer inspection. Though dedicated to the archangels Michael and Gabriel, the church carries a distinctive name: Stavropoleos. This Romanian twist on the Greek Stauropolis, meaning “the city of the Cross,” gives it a poetic charm that sets it apart from other churches.

Step inside, or even just linger in the quiet courtyard, and you can almost feel the weight of history. Archimandrite Ioanichie Stratonikeas built the church in 1724 during the second reign of Nicolae Mavrocordat, who ruled Wallachia from 1719 to 1730. The surrounding inn once supported both the church and its monastery, but by the end of the 19th century, the inn and annexes had vanished. Earthquakes also took their toll over the years, even bringing down the dome at one point, but careful restoration has preserved its serene beauty.

Today the church is all that remains of the original monastery. The building alongside is an early 20th century structure housing a library, a conference room and a collection of old (early 18th century) icons. There are ecclesiastical objects as well as segments of wall paintings recovered from churches demolished during the communist regime. 

It’s evening walking Bucharest, 6:30pm as I stumble across this church for the first time. What draws me in, before I see the astonishing paintings on the facade, is the sound. There is a service on inside the church and the meloidical chanting can be heard echoing through the cobbled streets adjacent to the complex. The church is crowded with worshippers. Out of respect, I stay outside in the courtyard, mesmerised by the reverence of the meditational sounds.

While I revisit a number of times, none are quite as magic as this first time with the religious song echoing through the streets clad in golden evening sunlight.

13. Cart With Beer (Caru’ Cu Bere) Restaurant

Just on from Stavropoleos Church, headed back towards the CEC Palace is the Caru’ Cu Bere Restaurant.

Caru’ Cu Bere ranks among Bucharest’s oldest and most iconic beer houses. Builders erected the striking current Gothic-style building in 1888 on Stavropoleos Street, just a short walk from Stavropoleos Church. It makes a perfect spot to pause for a drink or bite to eat. Particularly if church services are ongoing and you want to enjoy the sounds for longer, unless joining the service, of course.

Pausing here gives one time to contemplate the design of the Austrian architect Zigfrid Kofczincky. Not all of the building is original, however. Builders extended and improved it after World War I, adding features such as the stained glass details seen today. The elegant interiors are in the neo Byzantine style of ornate woodwork including carved handrails and striking mural paintings.

The beer house earned its fame more for its culinary delights than its beer. Its standout dishes included frankfurters with horseradish, boeuf salad and complimentary black radish and olives. Alongside the beer, the house offered a carefully curated selection of wines, the result of years of meticulous cellaring by skilled cellar masters – a level of quality few beer houses could match. The beer itself became legendary thanks to Old Ghita, the famous cellar man, who served it straight from the barrel into each client’s personal mug, kept safely on site.

14. Palace of Parliament

From Caru’ Cu Bere, head towards CEC Palace and continue your walking Bucharest tour by turning left down Calea Victoriei. Cross over the Danube River and follow the dogleg around to the right onto Bulevvardul Natiunile Unite. When you can see the Palace of Parliament, turn left onto Bulevardul Libertatii.

Romania’s seat of Parliament and the national bicameral legislature of Romania, houses the Chamber of Deputies and the Senate. The building is relatively new, having been constructed between 1984 and 1997. A team of 700 architects working on the project. The stats get even more impressive when looking at its size. With a floor area of 365,000m², it weighs in as one of the heaviest buildings in the world. It is estimated at just over 4 million tonnes.

Despite its 23 interior sections housing museums and conference areas as well as parliament, much of this impressive structure remains unoccupied. A shame given it has the price tag of the most expensive administrative building in the world.

It is possible to visit on a tour. However, I haven’t arranged this early enough and must satisfy my curiosity with a walk. I continue walking around the (also very empty) perimeter.

From the front of the Palace of Parliament, turn around and head back along the picturesque Bulevardul Unrili. On reaching the Parcul Unrili, turn left and head back over the Danube into the old town.

15. The Marmarosch Hotel

If you’re after a nightcap to contemplate all that you have seen walking Bucharest, head back into to the heart of the old town, near the National Bank. While there are a surprising number of hotels in Bucharest’s old town, none appear quite so charming as The Marmarosch Hotel.

While the facade is worth a pause, it’s well worth heading inside. The building, originally a bank, is in art deco style, completed in 1923 at the heady pinnacle of the era. The building’s sleek geometric and stylized form harnessed and enhanced, delivering a perfect hotel. The bar area and reception being the pièce de résistance. The service is excellent too.

Good To Know

Bucharest is another city that claims the title of Paris of the East. It has to be said that it does retain some Parisian style due to the stunning architecture and historic buildings. The upside is that walking Bucharest is much more do-able that walking Paris. Bucharest is a lovely compact town to walk with wonderful sights and lots to do.

Only the Parliament building requires a tour booking.

Would I Return?

Yes.