Pula

Pula

After a day out and about in Rovij and surrounds we make our way to Pula for the evening.

Roughly a 40 minute drive along the beach lined coast, Pula is another charming seaside town on Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula. More Roman ruins are scattered amongst the city near its pretty harbor and surrounding beaches.

The city has a history of Roman, Venetian and even Austrian rule. Today the Roman ruins, Venetian influence and no doubt some Austrian impressions still remain.

Pula Arena

Like an echo from a past era, the Arena looms before us. This ancient Roman amphitheater was built between 27 BC – 68 AD, around the same time as its most famous cousin, the Colosseum. Along with the Colosseum it is amongst the worlds six largest surviving Roman arenas. While its capacity is just under half of that of the Colossuem’s (50,000 vs 23,000) spectators, the fact that the Pula Arena is so well preserved means that it is worth the visit. Just to see the four completely intact and preserved side towers, the only remaining amphitheater that does, is quite special. The fact that you can walk right through the main arena floor is also quite an experience.

It was designed to hold gladiatorial contests and other public spectacles, such as animal hunts, mock sea battles, and theatrical performances. Standing here I can just imagine the chariots racing and the crowd roaring.

Fortress Days

Centuries later, during the Middle Ages, the arena shifted roles, serving first as a fortress and then as a quarry, its stones carted away to raise new buildings across Pula. By the 19th century, preservationists stepped in to save what remained, and the arena once again filled with life – hosting cultural events and even a grand visit from Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph I in 1886.

In the 20th century, the ancient walls gained cinematic fame as a film set for productions like The Long Ships and The Arena. Today, the amphitheater stands proudly restored, its limestone glowing golden in the late afternoon sun. As you step inside, the air hums with echoes of centuries past, yet the space feels vibrantly alive, whether during a summer concert, a Shakespeare play beneath the stars, or the electric energy of the Pula Film Festival and the Outlook Festival.

Today, underground exhibits of ancient Roman artifacts include vessels, weapons, coins, and jewelry. Archaeologists uncovered these exhibits during excavations of the site.

Standing gazing up at the columns and trying to imagine a project of this scale taking shape entirely by hand is mind boggling. The structure is an engineering feat in any age. Measuring 132 meters long, 105 meters wide and 32 meters tall my mind boggles as to the construction.

Built using local limestone it is this material which gives off the distinctive pale-yellow glow. The outer walls consist of decorative Corinthian columns and pilasters in two levels of arches.

Overall, the Pula Arena is a magnificent example of Roman architecture and engineering, and its size and historical significance make it a must-see attraction for anyone visiting Pula or the Istrian region of Croatia.

The Arch of the Sergii

The Arch of the Sergii was originally a city gate, built in Ancient Roman times as a triumphal arch. It commemorates three members of the Sergii family, a powerful family of officials in the colonial Roman colony.

Built between 29 BC – 27 BC, it still stands today reminding us of the victory of Actium, the mighty Roman Empire and that we walk the paths that many before us have already walked.

Good To Know

Pula is a beautiful seafront city on Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula. It’s a 3 hour drive from the capital Zagreb and worth every minute on the road.

As well as the Arena and Arch of the Sergii, the old town has many sights to explore, all accessible by foot. Try these top sights:

• Pula Arena
• Pulski Kastel
• Fort Georgio
• The City Market Building
• Roman Theatre Ruins
• Park Montezaro
• Beaches and islands

Would I Return?

Yes.