Plovdiv has an Ancient Town within its Old Town and more layers of Old Town within this. Centered along ul. Saborna we walk up the steep cobbled street that crosses over Boulevard Tsar Boris III Obedinitel, one of the modern city’s main thoroughfares. Immediately we are upon a different class of historic building to the recent walk around the Kapana.
This area of the Old Town is an architectural and historical reserve spanning Nebet Tepe, Dzhambaz Tepe and Taksim Tepe, three (of seven) of Plovdiv’s hills. Arguably ancient, settlement here dates back to Thracian times (4,000BC) with Hellenic settlement (circa 342BC), Roman settement (from 46AD) and the Revival Houses dating from 1800 – 1900 AD.
The Ancients
Nebet Tepe
Nebet Tepe sits at the heart of Plovdiv’s ancient town, with settlement dating back to 4,000 BC. As I wander among the early Thracian remains – city walls, towers and fragments of ancient buildings – I feel the layers of history beneath my feet. The name comes from the Turkish words nevbet, meaning “guard,” and tepe, meaning “hill,” a fitting reminder of its strategic role. Standing atop the hill, I imagine ancient sentries scanning the horizon, watching over the city they protected. The view stretches across Plovdiv today, blending the modern city with echoes of its distant past.
It might be hard to imagine life here that long ago but it’s not hard to imagine why this spot was chosen. Not only does the hill top provide natural defense but the views surely were (and still are) spectacular.
The Romans
Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis
Part of Plovdiv’s ancient town, the Roman Theatre stands as one of the world’s best-preserved ancient theatres, dating back to the 1st century AD. Walking among its stone tiers, I imagine the roar of up to 7,000 spectators and the tension of gladiatorial contests, hinted at by the remnants of safety features along the front row. The theatre lay hidden for centuries until a landslide in 1970 revealed its grandeur once more. Since then, careful excavations and restorations have brought it back to life and today it hosts performances that link modern Plovdiv to its ancient past. Standing here, it’s easy to feel the pulse of history beneath your feet, a living monument to the city’s long and layered story.
Revival Houses
Kuyumdzhiouglu House
(КУЮМДЖИЕВАТА КЪЩА РЕГИОНАЛЕН ЕТНОГРАФСКИ МУЗЕЙ)
Surrounded by the most picturesque gardens and spilling over the Hisar Kapia (the Old Town Gate), stands the magnificent house of the rich Plovdiv merchant Argir Hristov Kuyumdzhioglu. Built in 1847, it’s not exactly ancient, but it is a remarkable example of Plovdiv’s symmetrical Revival houses and held up as the peak of Baroque architecture in Bulgaria.
The impressive building is sometimes referred to as the “King’s Residence”, due to its size. On each of the four stories there is a large parlor, most impressive of which is the oval central part of the second floor reception hall. Another unique feature is the house’s own water reservoir (cistern) located in the basement and a secret exit leading out to the Three Hills through a tunnel. The eastern facade of the house is integrated with the old Roman fortress wall and is an integral part of the Old Town’s Gate.
The majestic facade, including the curved rocker eaves and well preserved rooms mean this building is a unique national monument and a prized example of Bulgarian culture embodied in a structure. The green oasis of the yard and its location among the cobbled streets of the Old Town, lend it to being a focal point of Plovdiv’s current cultural scene.
Regional Ethnographic Museum
The Kuyumdzhioglu House now hosts Plovdiv’s Regional Ethnographic Museum, but its walls have seen many lives. Over the years, the building has served as a girls’ boarding house, a hat factory, a flour warehouse, a vinegar factory and even a tobacco warehouse. Each chapter adds to its character, giving the house a unique depth that visitors can sense as they explore.
In 1927, the house earned the designation of a “folk historical monument,” and years later it was transformed into a Municipal House Museum, opening its doors to the public in 1943. Today, walking through its rooms, you can feel both the layers of its past and the rich cultural heritage it preserves. This offers a fascinating glimpse into the traditions and everyday life of the region.
The exhibition showcases traditional culture from Thrace, the Rhodope Mountains and the Sredna Gora region during the Renaissance period. Visitors can explore a rich collection that includes copper vessels, ornaments, church plates, lace, costumes, musical instruments, and recreated urban interiors, offering a vivid glimpse into the everyday life and artistry of these communities.
Georgiadi House
The Georgiadi House is a stunning example of Bulgarian Revival architecture. Built in 1848 for wealthy merchant and weaver Georgi Kendindenoglou, the house became part of his daughter’s dowry when she married Dimitar Georgiadi.
The home showcases the symmetrical Bulgarian design popular at the time, with four rooms per floor arranged around a spacious central hall. Covering 251 sq.m., it was an impressive residence for 19th-century living. A charming feature on the ground floor is the covered indoor courtyard, which links the street to the backyard.
Like the Kuyumdzhioglu and Lamartine Houses, the Georgiadi House features exquisite carvings on ceilings, skirtings, cupboards and wall niches. Restored in 1960, it now serves as the Regional Museum of History. Visitors can explore its architectural beauty and historical significance.
Lamartine (Mavridi) House
This house was built by the Plovdiv merchant Georgi Mavridi, with construction beginning in 1829. It exemplifies Plovdiv’s classical symmetrical house style, where the balanced floor design creates a sense of spaciousness. Generous bay windows add lightness to the overall structure, despite irregular foundations on uneven terrain. All rooms, including the parlor on the two floors of living space, feature intricately carved wooden ceilings. The niches formed by the carvings are decorated with landscapes or ornamental designs. This style is known as alafranga, meaning “in the French manner.”
The house is named for the visit of French diplomat Alphonse de Lamartine in 1833, a landmark event in its history that left a lasting impression. It is the only surviving house where Lamartine stayed during his visits to Bulgaria. Bulgarian historian Gaston Sergerar documented Lamartine’s time here, preserving his declaration that “the Bulgarians were completely ready and worthy of their freedom.” In commemoration, French prime ministers and presidents have visited the house. A museum exhibition dedicated to Lamartine opened here in 1960.
Over the years, the building has undergone renovations and restorations. It now also houses the Union of Bulgarian Writers, blending literary and historical significance under one roof.
Street of Crafts
The Street of Crafts runs alongside the Georgiadi House from the Old Town Gate. Along here you can explore work shops, cafes, pharmacies and other crafts all in typical Revival style outlets.
The creative spaces include pottery, bakery, felting, glass works, painting, weaving and a blacksmith. A nice spot to stop for a refreshment and purchase a souvenir or two. Although I can’t help but reflect on what ancient town artifacts might still be buried below this charming street scene.
Good To Know
We toured Bulgaria with Adriana from Private Tours Bulgaria. See also:
Would I Return?
Yes.
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