Church of Saint Sava

High on the Vračar plateau, the Church of Saint Sava, Belgrade, occupies one of the most symbolic sites in Serbian history. This is where, in 1595, Ottoman Grand Vizier Sinan Pasha ordered the burning of Saint Sava’s relics. It was his attempt to erase a spiritual leader who had unified the Serbian people and founded the Serbian Orthodox Church.

Centuries later, the same ground would be chosen as the site of a monumental temple in his honour. After multiple design competitions, the project finally gained momentum in the 1930s when architects Bogdan Nestorović and Aleksandar Deroko were appointed. Their vision for the church – bold, Byzantine and deeply national – sparked debate across Yugoslavia. Nevertheless, the first stone was laid in 1935. However, construction came to a halt during World War II.

In the succeeding years, the uncompleted structure, little more than a shell, was used by German troops and later by communist partisans. For decades, the Orthodox Church’s requests to resume building were denied. By the 1980s, public pressure grew too strong to ignore. In 1985, 100,000 people gathered for a liturgy on site, a powerful turning point in both religious and political life.

Today, the church stands as a combination of cathedral and statement of identity, resilience and memory. Its history is one of interruption and resistance but ultimately, revival.

Architecture and Construction

Modelled after Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia, the Church of Saint Sava is designed to impress. Its immense dome, symmetrical plan and monumental scale give it a commanding presence above Belgrade. At 79 metres high, it’s one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, and it shows.

When construction was paused during World War II, only the lower walls were completed. The the fate of the unfinished church was unclear and remained so until 1985 when permission to continue was finally granted and architect Branko Pešić revised the plans. New building technologies were implemented, and in 1989, the 4,000-tonne dome was raised, a feat of engineering performed with pinpoint precision.

The exterior blends Byzantine and Serbian architectural traditions, with white marble and granite cladding the facade. Its soaring central dome sits above four smaller apses, forming a cruciform layout that feels both ancient and purposeful. The entire complex, built on sacred, storied ground, now defines the Belgrade skyline.

The church is not just an architectural triumph. It is a cultural and spiritual icon. Declared a landmark, it’s now protected as part of the Vračar plateau, which was designated a spatial cultural-historical unit in 2021. The designation honours both the site’s architectural beauty and its role as a memory space. Here the past, from Ottoman desecration to Serbia’s modern rebirth, is remembered and preserved.

Inspiring Interior

Step inside the Church of Saint Sava, and you’re immediately dwarfed by its scale and splendour. Light filters down from the vast central dome, illuminating walls still in the process of being covered in intricate mosaics. But even incomplete, the effect is breathtaking.

The gold mosaic cladding, more than 12,000 square metres, is among the most ambitious in the Orthodox world. The dome alone features a glittering Christ Pantocrator, encircled by angels and saints. Much of this work has been supported by international donations, particularly from the Russian Federation.

What sets the interior apart is not only its scale, but its symbolism. The artistic program blends Orthodox liturgy with national memory. In the nave and side chapels, you’ll find scenes from the lives of Serbian saints, rulers and martyrs. Even the light seems choreographed, filtering through arched windows and gilded domes to create a celestial atmosphere.

Though not yet fully completed, the church already functions as a place of worship, pilgrimage and quiet reflection. Visitors stop to light candles, admire the craftsmanship and take in the stillness that seems to anchor the noise of the city outside.

As Serbia’s answer to Hagia Sophia, the Church of Saint Sava is more than just a building. It’s a living, breathing sanctuary. One that, for the Serbians in particular, may continue to grow in beauty and meaning with every passing year.

Good To Know

I wandered into the Church of Saint Sava on a sunny Sunday afternoon in Belgrade. While there is no impediment to entry, security were present and asked one person who was posing for tourist snaps to leave. Remember this is a place of worship, show a suitable amount of respect and, even if you’re not Orthodox, you should be free to discover this modern day, yet very traditional, symbol of Serbia.

Would I Return?

No.