Brugge Is A Blur – 5 Must Dos

Swans on the canal

What a whirlwind of a weekend in Brugge (Bruges), it went by in a blur! And not just because of the speed of the Eurostar, the upside of which means you can do Brugge in a weekend. It must be remembered that speed can also be a downside!

Still, on every trip, fast or slow, there are some must dos. Here is the countdown for Brugge:

No. 5 – Drink Beer

Diana & I are finally on our way after picking our tickets up at the station. After busy weeks for both of us, we spend the trip de-stressing. Comfortably settled into our seats on the Eurostar, we catch up over a few drinks and a chat. Just a normal Friday night really. We do need to change trains in Brussels but arrive at our hotel around 11pm. Taking into account the loss of an hour due to the time difference, this isn’t too bad. I could, theoretically of course, just be stumbling home from the pub now anyway. The downtime on the train has given us a chance to revive our energy and enthusiasm. As such, we head into the main square for a beer (as you do).

Bier (beer), spoilt for choice
Bier (beer), spoilt for choice

Although it’s pretty quiet at this time of night, the Australian in me is still surprised to see anything open. We find a nice spot at a quiet pub. In front of an open fire, we sit and chat some more over a couple of beers. But what to choose? I have never seen so many beers and had so many choices. Not being much of a beer drinker, it seems I have a lot to learn! Tonight we choose a Zots beer and after getting a bit carried away (with the talking, not the beer) we finally get to bed around 2am.

Zot Bier
Zot Bier

Bruges Beer Experience

The next day after a suitably non-beery breakfast of coffee and almond croissants we partake in some sightseeing before heading to the Bruges Beer Experience.

Part experience, part museum, the Bruges Beer Experience explains Belgium’s rich beer heritage. Then we learn about different types of beer, the brewing process and food pairings. The hour is topped off with a tasting in a traditional beer hall.

Come nighttime, I’m armed with a little more knowledge about how beers are made and what I prefer. To expand my repertoire at dinner time over moules et frittes, I experiment with Hoegaarden, followed by a cherry beer. Both are enjoyable and I reluctantly conclude that beer is growing on me.

No. 4 – Visit a Church (and Befry and Guild Hall)

Okay so I’m a die hard church fan. Not only do churches provide a welcome pause for quiet contemplation during the madness of sightseeing (and life in general!) but they always provide some insights about the current location.

You don’t have to look too closely at a church to notice the architecture (and try to guess which century it was built in). Are the windows, sculptures and paintings opulent or plain? What type of ceiling does it have and are there any vaults in the floors? What does all this tell you about the town that you are visiting, the culture of the people and the country that you are in?

Michelangelo's Madonna & Child
Michelangelo’s Madonna & Child

We visit the Church of Our Lady in Bruges, home to Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child (1501–1504), also known as the Madonna of Bruges. Standing two metres tall, this marble masterpiece was completed shortly after the artist’s more famous Pietà. The sculpture is remarkable not only for Michelangelo’s exquisite craftsmanship but also because it is the only one of his works to leave Italy during his lifetime.

Originally commissioned as an altarpiece, the Madonna of Bruges has an eventful history. It was first taken from Belgium during the French Revolutionary Wars but returned after Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo in 1815. Its second disappearance came during World War II. During the war it was smuggled out of the country in a Red Cross truck, hidden inside a mattress. It was later discovered in an Austrian salt mine and returned once again to Bruges. It remains here today, a symbol of resilience, faith and timeless art.

The church itself is quoted as being “…a monument to the wealth, sophistication, taste, and devotion of this most Catholic city, whose history and faith stand today celebrated in this wonderful building.”2

Belfry

It is not only the churches that provide examples of the exquisite architecture and glimpses into the history of this town. The Belfry and Guild Hall are other worthy architectural highlights.

The city comes into focus

The Belfry is a medieval bell tower which previously housed the town’s treasury and municipal archives. Belfries were also used as watchtowers for fires and other danges, such as invasions. Today the tower is a symbol of Brugge and, despite the chilly wind, is also a very useful spot to snap your own postcard worthy pictures of the city.

Belfry at night

Guild Hall

The Guild Hall (City Hall) is also notable as one of the oldest in the region. It is beautiful both inside and out, another tribute to the wealth and sophistication of Brugge’s Golden Age (12th – 15th Centuries) when the city served as a major European trade hub bringing both economic and political power. Although the building serves as a town or city hall the term Guild Hall makes reference to the merchant guilds (organisations or brotherhoods) popular during Europe’s medieval era that acted as a governing body largely controlling the trade of a specific region or type of good (i.e wool).

Inside the Guild Hall
Inside the Guild Hall
Guild (City) Hall in the main Market Square

The grandeur of this Gothic building once again reflects the wealth of the population at the time it was built (1376 – 1421).

No. 3 – Relax in the Parks

In between taking in the architecture of churches, museums and other significant buildings, it is important to take time to enjoy the atmosphere of the city and, apart from the sheer romance of all those cobbled streets, the parks are a wonderful place to do this.

Picturesque parks - corner of Begijnhof and Wijngaardplein
Picturesque parks – corner of Begijnhof and Wijngaardplein

If you have any room left after meals consisting of huge pans of moules et frittes (mussels and French fries, a Belgian specialty) then settle down with some chocolates (*spoiler alert* see #1) or a hot sweet crepe and watch the people, swans and boats drift by. While the weather is still crisp there is nothing like a blue sky and the sight of daffodils out in the lawns of the Begijnhof, to hint at the promise of Spring.

Daffodils in Ten Wijngaerde, Begijnhof
Daffodils in Ten Wijngaerde, Begijnhof

The Begijnhof, a housing complex for religious lay women (although it has been a Benedictine convent since 1927), is the perfect spot to take a rest from the cobblestones or just wander around in the fresh air.

No. 2 – Ride the Canals

Another opportunity for a rest while soaking in the atmosphere is a canal ride. Although the township originated on the banks of the Reie River, the development of the canals connected the township to the all important port on the North Sea (Zeebrugge). The port and their canal connected city were at the cross roads of the northern Hanseatic League and the southern trading routes. Often referred to as the Venice of the North (along with St. Petersburg, Amsterdam and Copenhagen, among others).

Riding the canals
Riding the canals
Bruges canals

Of course today their primary purpose is aesthetics and tourism and you can find landing spots around the old town for just that purpose – to explore Bruges by boat.

Although it really is hard to choose, Rozenhoedkaai and Groenerei are two of the most picturesque spots on or along the canals. Rozenhoedkaai is just a hop, skip and a jump from the main Market Square and is a centuries old hotspot where rosaries were once sold on the street. Today your perfect view awaits any time of day or night – rain, hail or shine.

Canals at night

Groenerei is another perfect spot to snap some Instagram worthy shots but really, there are no bad views of these charming waterways.

No. 1 – Eat Chocolate

Chocolate

Chocolate anyone? The answer is always yes! And Belgium is famous for it’s chocolate so who can resist?

After all the fresh air and boat rides, take a trip to the chocolate museum and indulge in a tour to round out the experience. Choco-Story emerges you in the 4,000 year history of chocolate and rounds it all out with the scents and tantalizing tastes associated with that little treat behind which is so much passion!

The museum and chocolatier is part of a family owned tradition, located in the 16th Century Huis de Crone building, originally a wine tavern but also used previously as a bakery and furniture shop.

Afterwards, buy yourself enough chocolate to savor and sit in a park and do just that because next Friday night when the Belgian beer is once again making everything a bit blurry, the memory of that chocolate WILL bring your experience back into sharp focus!

View of the Belfry from the canals
View of the Belfry from the canals

Good To Know

A four thirty am wake up call on Monday morning to get back on the Eurostar & straight to work is not the best way to start the week. If you have the opportunity, stay a little longer and slow things down a bit more.

Would I Return?

Yes. To take it slow. Swanning (!) around in parks and lazing on canals are not my usual recommendations for sightseeing. But Brugge is so picturesque that you can’t help but want to take it slow, perhaps savoring just one more of those chocolates…

Views from the Belfry

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