As we set off for diving the Musandam Peninsula, it feels like the most ordinary of days and yet seems to be the start of something extraordinary. Our family of four—my husband, our two boys (aged 14 and 11), and myself, embark on what promises to be the perfect weekend getaway. Our destination: the jagged, sun-dappled coastline of Oman, known for its dramatic fjords, crystal-clear waters and some of the best diving in the Middle East.
The drive from Dubai to the border at Dibba Al-Fujairah takes around two hours. We think we’re doing well for time but the border crossing takes a while and by the time we reach the port at Dibba Al-Baya to board our dive boat for the weekend, it’s dark and almost time to set off.
Embarkation
We embark as the crew greet us with warm smiles and are led off to check our gear. Soon we settle ourselves on deck to meet our fellow dive passengers and then, after a brief introduction to the boat and safety measures, we set sale. We’re here for a diving adventure, but not just any diving trip—this one is aboard a traditional Omani dhow. For centuries, dhows have been the lifeblood of trade and fishing in the Arabian Gulf and now they serve as perfect floating platforms for exploring these coastal waters. The boys are particularly excited about the idea of sleeping on deck under the stars.
After dinner on deck, we head out of the harbour and take off for the Musandam Peninsula in earnest. It’s a 4-5 hour journey and the evening is windy so the water is quite choppy. The boys are excited but eventually they settle down on deck and drift off to the drone of the engine.
I’m not so relaxed and find it hard to switch off. I don’t find the noisy, bumpy ride particularly relaxing and regret not taking up a kind offer of sea sick tablets. Swallowing the thought I try to focus on the sea spray and stars as I gaze off at the shadows of rocky cliffs under the full moon. Once we arrive in calmer waters I take to the cabin for a few hours of fitful sleep before our first dive call.
I emerge from the cabin just before 7am. The landscape is transformed. Jagged mountain ridges rise up around us and the waters of the Gulf of Oman beckoned from below.
PADI Open Water
I imagine spending the day on this old wooden boat, like some sort of pirate ship. Although I would be happy to while away the day on the deck, I have signed up to do my PADI open water certification. I’m the only one. My husband and the boys have already completed theirs and despite the early hour and the chilly morning air, everyone seems keen.
The rest of the contingent complete their dive briefing and board the dive boat headed to the site. I stay back with Roberto, my instructor, who kindly and patiently takes me through the practicalities of preparing for a dive and all the safety checks. Then we enter the water.
Diving Practice
After a number more practical exercises in the shallow, we head down for my first dive experience on the north side of Malcom Inlet. I get used to breathing through a regulator and try to stay calm. It’s a lovely, sloping bottom and I don’t even realise at first how deep we get. There are lots of fish and some coral. I’m surprised at the number of fish here and to see a lion fish. At the point that we turn our dive to head back we’ve reached a depth of 9.1m. I’m quite proud of myself surfacing again.
As we board the dhow again I shiver out of my gear and wetsuit and head for a warm shower and a dry change of clothes. The others have returned, the sun is out and breakfast is served.
Breakfast is hearty and delicious and there is a short rest before the second dive of the day gets underway. I learn more skills in the shallows and do another short dive, this one on the south side of the inlet. There are lots of fish. I discover angel fish, loads of different colored parrot fish as well as blue grouper and snapper. Upon surfacing we make our way back to the boat and again I’m proud of my efforts – except for a bit of difficulty getting my weight belt back on underwater!
Other Activities
After warming up again and a satisfying lunch, I have a break for the afternoon. I’m happy to stay on deck and unwind with my book while the others head off on their third dive. A snorkel is tempting in this remote and unspoiled corner of the world but the wind is up again and I make a cup of tea and gaze out at the crazy landscape in between chapters until everyone else arrives back.
The rest of the afternoon disappears quickly. Jasper is tired and is happy with a bit of downtime in the cabin though not before jumping from the top deck a few times. Harley has been for a kayak and then has picked up the hand line and is busy catching dinner. He manages a count of 5 for the afternoon and the chef does a fine job of frying the snapper for our meal.
A Dhow and a Dream
The rest of the divers head off for their night dive. We stay on board, Jason and I relaxing on deck as the setting sun turns the rocky cliffs all manner of orange, pink and red. Soon they’re bleached white by the rising moonlight.
Once the other arrive back, dinner is served, followed by an excellent dessert of apple crumble. It’s quickly devoured and the group dissipates. Some head to bed, a group stays on deck to play Taboo. I settle Harley in on the bow and consider reading for a bit more. However, it’s not long before the sea air and activity get the best of me. I opt for the freshness of the deck and find a corner to curl up in. I figure at least out here if I can’t get to sleep I can enjoy the breeze and gazing at the stars…
I wake early just as the sky is lightning. A bit surprised, I blink a few times, trying to take in where I am. Our dhow is a sturdy vessel, its wooden planks polished to a rich honey brown by years of use. The sea breeze feels cool but welcome on my skin and the boat’s gentle rocking settles me into a calm, almost meditative state as I allow myself to wake properly.
I make tea for the boys and coffee for Jason and wake them gently. We have just enough time to get ready before the first dive briefing of the day. This one I join with the group. I have done enough of my practicals to join the dive at Octopus Rock.
Into the Deep
Roberto our dive guide and a seasoned local diver, briefs us on the dive site: clear waters, healthy coral reefs and a vibrant underwater ecosystem filled with colorful fish, rays and the occasional reef shark. Jason and the boys, ever the adventurers are eager to come across a shark or two. I’d prefer to see turtles or dolphins, certainly something far less intimidating.
A little nervous as we depart in the dive boat for the site, I manage to kit up and perform my first back roll into the sea. It feels anything but elegant. Nevertheless we soon descend into the deep and I’m greeted by a whole new world. The coral gardens beneath me are alive with a stunning array of fish, from bright yellow butterfly fish to the shimmering scales of parrotfish. Every movement I make seems to be echoed in another flight of fish in one direction or another, their movements creating a surreal, dreamlike effect in the water. A trumpet fish shoots past and the boys point out another puffer fish, lion fish and a moray eel.
Our bubbles of breath rise up the cliffs towards the shimmering surface and it really does feel like another world down here. As we get deeper there are larger fish that I can’t identify and bigger schools of smaller fish. Some of the divers are searching deeper for seahorses but they allude us. The corals are purple, blue, orange and even black. There are shells that are alive, snapping closed with a rush of water to the delight of the boys.
Interlude
After a 50 minute dive to a depth of about 16m we resurface and make our way, one by one, back into the dive boat for a teeth chattering 5 minute trip back to the dhow.
I head straight for the showers to warm up before breakfast is served again on deck. Over the meal, the joy in the boys’ voices is palpable as they recount the dive. It’s a moment I cherish, being able to watch my kids discover the magic of the ocean in real-time. The meal is simple but flavorful and the boys, sun-kissed and salty, devour it quickly.
Marovi Rock
It’s only another half an hour before we’re off again. This time the dive site is Marovi Rock, an imposing structure just off the coast a little further south of where we were this morning. I have to complete my surface and underwater compass skills and Roberto guides me through these while the others begin their dive. After about 15 minutes, we descend and shortly after I’m surprised to see that we have met up with the rest of the divers underwater. There are more of the same fish at this site and the corals are equally stunning. I’m still quite intrigued watching the people in this environment, as well as the fish. All too soon we have to do our safety stop and ascend to the surface.
Back on board we witness a school of flying fish across the bay as the equipment is packed. We’re headed back to port as we lunch, cruising along the coastline. Passing more towering cliffs that plunge steeply into the water, they create hidden inlets and secluded beaches that can only be witnessed from the sea. The Musandam Peninsula, sometimes referred to as the “Norway of Arabia”, due to its dramatic fjords, is an equally stunning landscape.
After about a couple of hours of cruising, the crew maneuver the dhow back into port. We pack up the car, farewell our fellow divers and navigate our way back to the border, setting the destination for home once again.
More Adventures to Come
On the drive I reflect on the trip. While not entirely leisurely due to the fair amount of activity, the weekend was certainly enjoyable, if a bit challenging. The rhythm of the dhow is certainly easy to relax into, as is being looked after by the excellent crew, chef and dive instructors.
Likewise the scenery, cruising through the fjords, the clear water, secluded beaches and breathtaking mountains . The boys, always up for a challenge, tried to do everything – kayaking, snorkeling, jumping from the deck, fishing and of course, eating. Plus, there was something deeply soothing about the gentle rocking of the dhow and the endless horizon stretching in every direction.
As the sun sets on another day I found myself considering another diving weekend. Certainly diving into the waters of Musandam has been a unique bonding experience for our family. There’s something about the sea and the shared awe of discovering its wonders, that brings people closer together.
By the time we arrive home, tired but deeply content, the boys are already talking about their next adventure. For now, though, I am content to leave the water behind, knowing that we carry the memories of our time on the dhow with us long after the boat docked. Not just that but my sea legs persist!
Good To Know
As I reflect on our weekend, I once again think how lucky we are to have had this experience. There’s something quite magical about family trips like this—when everyone is disconnected from the outside world and fully immersed in the moment.
We were able to leave behind the distractions of daily life and we found ourselves together in one of the world’s most beautiful and untouched corners. The Musandam Peninsula is, without a doubt, a destination recommended for family adventure, tranquility and a touch of magic beneath the waves.
Sheesa Beach Dhow Cruises offer dive & discover live aboard experiences for the adventurous. A special thanks to our Dhow Captain, Shamin, as well as SP. B. Capt Rubel, Chef Zee and our excellent Dive Guides Roberto, Arnel and Ivar.
Would I Return?
Yes.