Sant Pau Administration - Dukes Global Adventures

The Art Nouveau Site of Sant Pau, including its iconic Administration Building, is an architectural jewel of Catalan Modernism. I arrive here on a cool November morning. I have walked from my Barcelona accommodation near Las Ramblas not really knowing what to expect. I’m both awed and inspired by what I find.

Sant Pau

Built between 1902 and 1930, Sant Pau was home to the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau from 1916 to 2009.

The project was conceived as a city within the city, an exceptional demonstration of the creative genius of Lluis Domènech i Montaner. Montaner is remembered as one of the great European architects. This Art Nouveau Site, which served Barcelona as an innovative, cutting edge hospital, is today a knowledge centre that hosts equally innovative institutions.

The Administration Building

Administration building. Such a bland sounding name for such a remarkable building. On arrival I am confronted by this monumental altarpiece as I approach the site, but it’s not until later that I realise that the interior is just as stunning, if not moreso, than the exterior.

For now, the outside is dominated by various sculptural elements and topped by the unmissable clock tower, a 62m high structure which has become one of Barcelona’s iconic landmarks.

The sculptural elements by Pau Gargallo establish an allegorical and symbolic dialogue with the architectural aspects of Pau Gil’s monumental work. They include:

four angels representing the three Virtues and the Works;
the reliefs on the second floor; and
Eusebi Arnau – ten great historical figures on the corners.

These works of beauty and great depth were executed by Josep Casan.

Lobby

Later, after exploring the rest of the Sant Pau Art Nouveau site, I experience the building’s remarkable lobby. In fact, the entirety of the administration building is reminiscent more of an opera house or grand library than a hospital building.

The lobby itself is covered by nine loops created by the stone archways and pink marble columns. The resulting ceilings in between are decorated in mauve and pink ceramics. There are shells, each containing a different message and four lots of coats of arms. These belong to Pau Gils, the hospital, Barcelona and Catalonia.

Other mosaic and decorative features offer a reminder of the year in which the building’s construction began (1905) and when it was completed (1910).

It’s a bright, sunny winter’s day today and the bright light reflects off the ceiling tiles, bathing the lobby’s interior in soft colour. From here my eye is immediately drawn to the magnificent staircase.

Staircase

The staircase represents a clear example of the intimate, perfect relationship that Pau Gil has achieved between architecture and ornamentation. It’s also true of the stained glass all round that bathes the space with its light and colour.

Crowned by the access door to the basements is a relief created by sculptor, Pau Gargallo. At the centre is the figure of Sant Martin on horseback, while two dragons observe the image from above. However, most interesting are the two side sculptures. These represent the Brothers of Charity and the Sisters Hospitallers, two religious orders that worked tirelessly for the hospital. However, there is a slight error in the Sister’s habit as this is the habit of a French nun. Apparently, Domènech made Garallo repeat the sculpture with the correct habit and, unconvinced by the stance, made him change it again until he was satisfied. This is yet another example of how Domènech paid attention to the finest of details.

As well as the elegant lobby, the Administration pavilion features several spaces that are open to visitors, including the Cambó Room, the Domènech i Montaner Room, the Pau Gil Room and the outside of the building, including the three Virtues and the ten great historical figures mentioned previously.

Pau Gil Room

The Pau Gil room was originally the hospital’s archives. Later it became a bookkeeping room and home to the hospital’s safe when the administration was located on the top of three floors.

In this room the symbols of two hospitals, Sant Pau and Santa Creu are represented here together. The coat of arms of Sant Pau was created by Domènech for the hospital. In this room, the colours of the sun and the sky, yellow and blue, dominate the space.

The rehabilitation of the Sant Pau modernist complex began in 2014 and since then, more than one hundred architects have participated in the works. Despite this, it is practically impossible to tell their work apart, as they have managed to keep the spirit and essence of Domènech i Montaner intact. This is particularly the case in the Administration Building where the restorations appear seamless.

Domenech i Montaner Room

The formidable yet inspiring Domenech i Montaner room continues to serve as the hospital’s function room.

Measuring 18 metres high and spanning a surface area of 170 square metres, it features all the materials used to build the complex including two different types of marble, three types of stone sculptures, mosaics, rose detail, ceramics, paintwork and brickwork. That is, not to mention the breathtaking stained-glass windows providing sweeping views over the grounds of this modernist complex.

The room’s mosaic is worth particular mention. It is is presented in the form of a curtain or a handrail with an engraved prayer that translates as: “To the benefactors and those who find shelter in this sacred place, both on Earth and in heaven, our warmest prayers. Amen.” This Gothic script was held in high esteem by Montaner. There are also dragons, the symbol of Modernism, and the knight, St George himself, depicted here. Represented in this sculpture is the victory of good over evil and, therefore, in the hospital’s version, health over disease.

Keeping the theme of light and colour, both play a key role in this room as in the rest of the building and indeed, the complex. The Administration Building features both the essential characteristics of Modernism whilst being as unique as it could possibly be for a complex such as this. A wholly unique and inspiring place.

Good To Know

The Administration Building is one of the main buildings at the Sant Pau Art Nouveau complex. If you have limited time, make this building your priority.

There are limits on capacity so be sure to book tickets and a guided tour early. I missed booking the guided tour and ended up with an audio guide. Failing a real guide, an audio guide is highly recommended. There is a lot of signage and, as it’s a large site, it may prove difficult to take in if you’re relying on reading everything. A guided tour would be even better.

Would I Return?

Yes.