Oller del Mas is a captivating winery nestled in the picturesque countryside near Manresa, about an hour’s drive from Barcelona. I’m on a tour with Viator, having just come from the morning at Montserrat and everyone is ready for some tasting, combined with tapas.
On arrival we pile out of the bus and glance back to enjoy the views of Montserrat in the distance. This superb location boasts ecological wines that have earned plenty of awards in the recent years. In fact, one of its wines won the “Best Wine in Catalonia” award in 2018.
As we enter, we’re led through the gates and into a large stone building. Through a couple of doors and we discover the cellar proper. Oak barrels and terracotta wine jars line the walls while a long table is set with tapas already waiting.
As we’re seated and settle in, we learn a little about the vineyard and the wines. It’s a high level overview though. So I supplement it by some follow up research, for those interested in more than the basics (which I am!).
A Castle Turned Vineyard
With a little research I learn that the vineyard has a deep historical connection to the region. Its location on the grounds of a medieval castle, the Castell d’Oller del Mas, dates back to the 10th century. At this time, the area was part of the Vallès Oriental, a region of Catalonia that saw numerous castles and fortifications built as protection from invaders. The castle was originally constructed as a defensive stronghold, situated on a hill with commanding views of the surrounding valley. This strategic position allowed it to serve as a military outpost and a base for the local nobility.
Over the centuries, the castle changed hands multiple times, passing through the control of various feudal lords and noble families. It was originally part of the Oller family estate, which is where it got its name, but by the Middle Ages, the castle had been passed on.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, the castle underwent significant renovations, evolving from a purely military structure to a more comfortable noble residence. With time, it was expanded and further fortified, featuring elegant architectural elements like stone arches, gothic windows, and medieval courtyards. For a time it was also the center of local governance and the administration of nearby lands, including agricultural properties.
The castle remained in the hands of various noble families until the 19th century, when its role as a military fortress became obsolete. Then, in the 1990’s the Oller family once again took possession, transforming the estate into a modern winery, planting vineyards on the fertile land surrounding the castle, taking advantage of the unique terroir of the region.
Today, the castle serves as a winery and event venue, with the breathtaking views of the surrounding vineyards providing a stunning backdrop to our visit.
Wine Making
The marriage of history and winemaking at Oller del Mas is a beautiful example of how heritage and innovation can coexist. Visiting here I’m not just experiencing wine; I also feel the step back in time. Walking through the halls and courtyards of this medieval castle that has stood witness to centuries of Catalonian history, I can feel the blend of ancient heritage and contemporary innovation around me.
When the Oller family, who have been winemakers for generations, took over the estate they brought with them modernized winemaking processes while simultaneously working to preserve the rich history and tradition of the land.
The winemaking techniques at Oller del Mas Winery reflect a blend of traditional methods passed down through the generations. They combine this with modern innovations that prioritize sustainability and quality. One of the most important aspects of their approach is their commitment to organic farming. The vineyard is cultivated without the use of synthetic pesticides or fertilizers, helping to maintain the health of the soil and promoting biodiversity. This organic philosophy extends to the winemaking process itself, with the winery avoiding the use of additives and chemicals, focusing instead on producing wines that are true to the land. They rely on natural fermentation, allowing wild yeasts present in the environment to take the lead, which can impart a greater sense of place and complexity to the wines.
In addition the region’s microclimate – one blessed with warm Mediterranean sun and cool winds from the nearby mountains – creates the perfect conditions for producing rich, full-bodied wines. The wines are known for their complexity and elegance. In particular, the Oller del Mas Montserrat (a blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon), has become one of the cellar’s signature wines.
The Vineyard
The vineyard’s rolling hills and terraced plots stretch across the landscape, filled with Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay grapes. Of particular interest is the winery’s commitment to organic practices. From the cultivation of the grapes to the fermentation process, these practices are reflected in the purity and authenticity of the wines.
The wines do have a distinct character. The reds have deep, dark fruit flavors and a rich, velvety finish, while the whites are crisp and refreshing with a touch of floral elegance. I savor each (tiny) sip from our tasting. Our guide encourages us to take our time, guiding us through the different aromas and tastes, helping to understand how the wine evolves with each moment. Paired with small bites of local cheeses and cured meats, the tasting experience is a nice glimpse into the heart of Catalan winemaking.
Oller del Mas grape varieties are carefully chosen to thrive in region, in particular, in the unique climate of the Bages DO (Denomination of Origin). This region benefits from a Mediterranean climate, with long, hot summers and cooler evenings, which helps the grapes ripen slowly, developing rich, concentrated flavors. The soil is primarily calcareous and clay-based, providing excellent drainage and allowing the roots to penetrate deeply to find nutrients.
Varietals
Some of the key grape varieties at Oller del Mas include:
- Tempranillo: This is the flagship red grape of Spain, and it thrives in the warmer climates of the region. Known for producing medium to full-bodied wines, Tempranillo at Oller del Mas offers flavors of dark cherry, plum, and subtle spice, with smooth tannins making it approachable and age-worthy.
- Cabernet Sauvignon: This international variety also grows well in the region, and Oller del Mas produces wines with a rich body, blackcurrant, and herbaceous notes, with good acidity and aging potential. The combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo is a signature blend of the estate.
- Merlot: Often used to round out blends, Merlot here brings softness and roundness to the wines, contributing flavors of red berries and a smooth texture that balances the more tannic red varieties.
- Chardonnay: For whites, Chardonnay is a key grape at Oller del Mas. The cooler nights of the Bages region help preserve the acidity of the Chardonnay, giving the wine a crisp, fresh character, with flavors of citrus, green apple, and a hint of butter from its brief oak aging.
- Garnacha (Grenache): This grape variety, which is native to Spain, is also part of the vineyard, particularly in the blended reds. Garnache, known for its red fruit flavors, spices, and relatively high alcohol content, contributes richness and intensity to the wines.
Technique
In terms of winemaking techniques, Oller del Mas uses a combination of stainless steel tanks and oak barrels for fermentation and aging, depending on the type of wine. Stainless steel preserves the freshness and fruitiness of the whites and lighter reds. For the more complex reds, particularly those made with Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo, the wine undergoes aging in French and American oak barrels. The oak aging imparts subtle notes of spice, vanilla, and smokiness, while allowing the wine to develop more depth and structure.
The Tasting
There’s a genuine passion here for both the wines and the history, which should make the experience feel personal and connected to the land. However, the Viator experience lacks this personal touch.
After a high level overview by our tour guide (which includes none of the above insights), we’re poured a sip. This Superbloom Blanc, a mix of Sumoll Blanc, Garnatxa Blanc (white Grenache) and Picapoll Blanc provides a fresh blended white. It’s unique to the location due to the Sumoll and Picapoll grapes that are native to the area. It is fresh, perhaps a bit too much so.
The first of the reds, Les Parcelles, is a mix of Grenache, Syrah and Picapoll Negre. Likewise it’s young and light. It could be decent with a bit more time but for now it’s too light for my preference.
The last wine, an Oller del Mas Bernat (2019) is fuller and deeper. Usually my preference, this lacks the complexity and finish that I prefer in a deep red. Maybe it’s the inclusion of too much Merlot. But hey, I’m no winemaker.
After our brief tasting, we have free time to walk around the vineyard and the castle’s public tasing courtyard. The atmosphere is relaxed yet sophisticated, with views of the vines stretched out before me. After another half an hour we board the bus again. However, instead of being a truly immersive experience, I know that we have merely scratched the surface.
Good To Know
Viator runs Montserrat Half-Day Tours with Tapas and Gourmet Wines.
If you’re really after an immersive experience and are interested in wine then this tour is not for you. The Viator stopover churns through busloads of visitors at a time. It’s good for a glimpse and a tasting. But beware, while our young tour guide did a good job of explaining some interesting facts about the vineyard and the three wines we tasted, this was not really a wine tasting experience. Nevertheless, with the buildings rich past still evident in the medieval architecture, stone towers, and ancient walls a visit anywhere with wine provides a lovely detour.
Treat it as a little addition to your Montserrat visit though and you won’t be disappointed.
Anything more and I suggest a separate wine tour or make your way here and enjoy a long, lazy lunch. Better yet, settle in for a night and a weekend with one of the Oller del Mas experiences.
Would I Return?
Yes. Preferably for an immersive experience!