I have arrived in Barcelona and booked a Girona, Peratallada & Calella day trip. It’s a full day including two wonderful medieval towns and a glimpse of the coast. About as much as one can expect in a day.
I’m promptly picked up from my hotel at 8am by Aleix, our tour guide for the day and we navigate Barcelona to safely onboard the rest of the travelers. A little out of town there’s a quick pit stop before arriving in Girona shortly before 10am.
Girona
Our Girona tour starts via Plaça de la Independencia after which we cross the Riu Onyar (River Onyar) over the Pont den Gomez. Girona is defined by three rivers including the Ter and Güell so the Onyar is just one of them. Here there is a picturesque row of houses lining the river visible from the many bridges crossing the Onyar.
Here we enter the medieval town proper, the cobblestones leading up the steep hill to the 14th century Basílica de Sant Feliu alluding to its history.
Just around the corner we enter under the city’s old fortifications to be presented with the towering facade of Girona’s ancient cathedral.
The 11th century bell tower of the Benedictine church attached to the monastery of Sant Pere de Galligants can also be spotted not far off, behind the preserved archeological site of the Banyas Arabs, the Arab Baths dating to the time of Moorish rule.
It’s possible to wander the castle walls and the old town, including the Jewish Quarter but I spend my 45 minutes of free time exploring the Cathedral and its cloister as well as Sant Feliu.
In the few minutes our spends gathering the tour group at the allotted time, I’m able to partake in a quick xuixo. A sugar coated, custard filled sweet local doughy delicacy that will tied me over until lunchtime.
Peratallada
About 45 minutes on from Girona is the tiny village of Peratellada. With barely more than a dozen streets and its name meaning ’carved stone’ this medieval village has some of Catalonia’s best preserved fortified sites.
The current castle building is the result of a long process of construction and refinement over many centuries. The first written reference is from 1065, but remains have been found showing the existence of a much older fortress, most likely Roman. The castle itself is Romanesque and Gothic style but includes later additions. The old walled village can be clearly distinguished from the palace.
Built between the 12th and 15th centuries, the castle is the origin of the old town. It was reinforced by several half towers (open on the inside) forming part of the fortifications. Reinforced with defensive moats, the towers could be used to drop defensive materials (stones, boiling water, arrows) at attackers.
Much later, the Tower of the Hours, having received its name after being transformed into the town’s clock and bell tower, is a good example of this kind of military architecture.
There is much more to this tiny town than just the castle and military history and importance. Take a walk around and you can delight in the beauty that the medieval period has provided us, without the threat of attack!
Palau-Sator
The next stop is Sa Torre restaurant in Palau-Sator for lunch at our guide, Aleix’s recommendation. The group agrees and Aleix has called ahead so on arrival we’re all seated together at a large table.
It takes a while but orders are taken and the garden setting is pleasant. Aleix disappears and presumably has lunch with our hosts. More diners appear at the restaurant as lunch is served. The seafood stew smells excellent but altogether I’m happy with my tenderloin steak and side of vegetables, even if the Roquefort sauce is average.
There doesn’t seem to be much of a hurry and whilst before lunch there is mention of access to the 14th century restored village entry tower, this isn’t mentioned again.
Calella de Palafrugell
The next and final town is Calella de Palafrgell, a perfectly timed 30 minute siesta away. Arriving at this seaside town late on a Sunday afternoon in November, there is nothing open. Nothing, that is, except the three seaside restaurants: Gelpifish, La Bella Terre and La Vela. These three locations seem to contain 90% of the local population who are all lunching. The remaining population seems to be lazing in the sun either on the beach or in the nearby placa (square).
I head up the hill to the church. Nothing is open. No cafes, no shops, not even a supermarket or souvenir shop. The church is also closed (and locked!). I walk back down the hill to the next beach over and follow the rocky shoreline back, pausing to take in the sea views as I go.
Soon arriving back at the square with restaurants and having just finished lunch I resist the urge to sit with a beer or ice cream like the majority of the town. Instead I join the minority and find a place to sit nearby on the rocks. I stare out at the water, enjoying the ocean breeze and the music from the musician in the Placa.
Soon it’s time to mosey on back up the hill to the waiting van and tour group for the subdued ride back to Barcelona.
Good To Know
In Out Barcelona Tours runs small group day trips through TripAdvisor with hotel pick up and drop off. Our guide, Aleix, provided some general commentary along the way. Short tours with some history were provided in Girona (30 mins) & Peratallada (10 mins). The rest was pretty much free time to explore in the given location.
If you like a bit of commentary and then time to pursue your own interests then this Girona, Peratallada & Calella day trip is a good balanced day for you. If, like me, you prefer a bit more history and intensity, this day might be too laid back for you. Consider taking a private tour.
Would I Return?
Yes. I’d return to Girona for the history, Peratallada for the cuteness and possibility Calella de Palafrugell in summer time.