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Perched high on a hill overlooking the charming city of Girona in Catalonia, Spain, the Girona Cathedral is an awe-inspiring structure with a rich history.
Also known as the Cathedral of Saint Mary of Girona (Catedral de Santa Maria de Girona), the structure is a blend of architectural styles and its remarkable single nave is the widest Gothic nave in the world but its story starts well before this milestone.
A Brief History
The history of Girona Cathedral stretches back to the 5th century when the site was home to a primitive Christian church. In the early Middle Ages, this church was replaced by a Romanesque cathedral, which was later transformed into the Gothic masterpiece that stands here today. Construction of the current cathedral began in the 11th century but the transition from Romanesque to Gothic architecture took several centuries.
The Cathedral’s most notable feature, its wide Gothic nave, was completed in the 15th century. At 22.98 meters (75.4 feet) across, it is second only to St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican City in terms of width. The Baroque façade and bell tower were added in later periods, giving the cathedral its distinct combination of architectural styles.
The Grand Staircase and Baroque Façade
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A notable part of the experience of Girona Cathedral is the approach which can be an experience in itself. Ascending the monumental 90 step staircase that leads to the towering Baroque façade and striking entrance sets the tone for what lies inside.
The Nave
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On entering, the highlight of the interior is undoubtedly the massive single nave, the widest in Gothic architecture. The sheer height and width of the nave creates a bit of an overwhelming experience. The sense of space and light emphasises the grandeur of the Gothic style.
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Off to the right hand side, just inside the entrance is the beautiful Baptism Chapel (Chapel of Saint Julien and Saint Basilisa). As the name suggests, the chapel was originally used for baptism and this impressive 12th century Romanesque baptismal fonts is an important piece of the cathedral’s medieval sculpture collection.
The large octagonal basin is carved from a single block of marble. It is richly decorated with sculptured scenes from the Bible and the size suggests that it was originally used for full-immersion baptisms.
Cloisters
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Despite its Gothic dominance, parts of the original Romanesque structure remain. Built between the late 12th and early thirteenth centuries, the cloister, is a serene and beautifully preserved space. It offers a glimpse into the medieval monastic life that once thrived at the cathedral and is still perfect for quiet moment of contemplation.
The intricately carved capitals (impost blocks) are a highlight of the cloisters. Each one tells a different story with some depitcting scenses from the Old and New Testaments. These include Adam & Eve in the Garden of Eden, the Sacrifice of Isaac and Daniel in the Lion’s Den.
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The cloister, of course, was a key part of any church’s monastic community. It was used for prayer, reading scripture and conducting administrative duties as well as a burial site for important figures associated with the cathedral. Today these cloisters are conisdered one of the best preserved Romanesque cloisters in Europe and a testament to the artistic and spiritual legacy of medieval Girona.
The adjacent Romanesque tower, the Tower of Charlemagne, is also of note, adding to the cathedral’s historical depth.
The Treasury Museum
The cathedral’s museum houses a remarkable collection of religious art and artifacts, including the Tapestry of Creation and the Figure of Saint Charlemagne.
The Tapestry of Creation is an exquisite 11th-century textile depicting biblical scenes and stands as one of the most important pieces of Romanesque art in Europe. Although referred to as a tapestry, the technique with which it was made is more correctly embroidery.
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The piece itself presents a complex message narrated through biblical scenes, symbols, allegories and sacred history. In the central wheel is the beginning of the first biblical book: Genesis. Around this, a series of paintings develop where time and its segmentations – the year, seasons, months and days, take centre stage. The lower part, although the most deteriorated, tells the story of Saint Helena in search of the True Cross.
It is unknown what use it had and when it ceased to be used, however, we do know that the person who designed it was a scholar of his time, although the names are lots. Still, the mere fact that a cirica eleventh century fabric has been preserved in such good condition is exceptional.
The Figure of Saint Charlemagne is a polychrome alabaster statue, described as a pièce de résistance of the emperor’s cult. Indeed there are several elements of the cathedral named after Charlemagne, reflecting a deliberate association with the emperor. In Girona, Charlemagne was beatified. He was worshipped here, despite the Catholic Church never having officially recognised him as a saint. He even has his own feast day (29 January) with records showing that celebrations and ceremonies were held. This praise is something quite unique to Girona.
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Stained Glass and Chapels
The cathedral’s various chapels are adorned with beautiful stained glass windows, paintings and sculptures. Each tells a story from Girona’s religious and artistic heritage, especially ornate is the Chapel of the Virgin of Sorrow.
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Girona Cathedral has served as a spiritual center for the city for over a thousand years. Beyond its religious functions, it has been a symbol of resilience and cultural identity for the people of Girona. It has witnessed centuries of historical events, including conflicts during the medieval period and the War of Spanish Succession. Today, it remains an active place of worship and a prominent tourist destination, attracting visitors from around the world.
Good To Know
A visit to Girona Cathedral is more than just an exploration of architecture and history. This is an opportunity to step back in time and experience the layers of Girona’s past. I’m captivated by its Gothic splendor, intrigued by its Romanesque roots and drawn to its artistic treasures. Standing as a testament to the city’s rich heritage, Girona Cathedral is truly a jewel of Catalonia.
Would I Return?
Yes. Both to Girona and the Cathedral.
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