Nestled along the banks of the Onyar River in northeastern Spain, Girona is a medieval gem in the heart of Catalonia. It’s a city that effortlessly combines history, culture and breathtaking beauty to provide a fascinating glimpse into Catalonia’s past. With its cobbled streets, ancient walls and rich heritage, Girona is a popular destination only an hour from Barcelona, the region’s capital. The city’s well-preserved medieval charm includes sights such as Girona Cathedral complete with well preserved cloisters, the 14th century Basílica de Sant Feliu, Banyas Arab (Arab Baths), City Walls and its picturesque old town including the Jewish Quarter.
Wandering through its historic streets, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere of its bustling plazas and marveling at its stunning architecture, Girona has captured my heart.
A Rich History
Girona’s history stretches back over 2,000 years, with evidence of early Roman settlement. Initially established by the Romans in the 1st century BC, the city was called Gerunda. Throughout the centuries, Girona has been shaped by various civilizations, each leaving its mark on the city’s identity.
In the 8th century, Girona was captured by the Moors, before being retaken by Charlemagne’s forces in the 9th century. The Christian Reconquista left a profound impact on the city, with the construction of fortified walls, churches, and monasteries.
During the Middle Ages, Girona became a prominent center of Jewish life and learning. Its Jewish Quarter (El Call) was one of the most important in Spain while the city’s strategic location along trade routes also made it a key military stronghold.
In the 18th century, Girona was caught in the conflict between Spain and France, suffering severe damage during the War of Spanish Succession. Despite this, the city’s resilience ensured its continued growth and importance.
Today I enter Girona from nearby Plaça de la Independencia and over the Pont den Gomez (Gomez bridge). Girona is defined by three rivers: the Onyar, the Ter and Güell. This bridge that spans the River Onyar, then, is just one of many hugging the old town close. Over the bridge, we enter the medieval town proper, the cobblestones leading up the steep hill to the 14th century Basílica de Sant Feliu alluding to its history.
On the way is this colorful mural of flies. Painted on a wall, the mural is almost as tall as me, the flies being revered as Girona’s ‘coat of arms’.
Girona’s Flies
Prior to the legend, one must understand that Girona is in the north of Spain. The Pyrenees, a mountain range forming the border between Spain and France is just to the north and any towns near the border has been repeatedly under siege.
The legend of Girona’s flies, then, is a quirky and fascinating tale, passed down through generations and woven into the fabric of the city’s history. According to local lore, the legend began in the 1286, when the neighbouring French attacked Giona. As they rushed through the streets sacking churches and defiling the city, they took a wrong turn. Entering the church of Saint Felix, they tore open the tomb of Sant Narcís. Suddenly, a swarm of stinging flies emanated from the tomb, flew over the city walls and attacked all the French soldiers. The French panicked and, overcome by the flies, were driven out by the locals. After this peace returned to Girona.
The flies became symbolic of the city’s resilience and faith. This tale is often recited during celebrations, including the Temps de Flors (Festival of Flowers).
The legend of the flies is also associated with the fly motifs found on the city’s monuments and architecture. In particular around the Cathedral of Girona.
Whether a symbol of divine protection or a quirky piece of local folklore, the flies are an integral part of Girona’s cultural identity. Girona’s residents are proud of their city’s rich historical tapestry and its ability to overcome adversity with faith and determination. They’re also quite fond of the flies.
Girona Cathedral
A dominant feature of Girona’s skyline is the Girona Cathedral, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. The cathedral’s enormous nave, the widest of any Gothic church in the world, is a testament to the city’s wealth as well as its religious significance during the medieval period. The cathedral was constructed over several centuries, beginning in the 11th century and finishing in the 18th century. Its towering façade, grand interior and quiet cloister are well worth a visit.
Basílica de Sant Feliu
Girona’s Catholic Basílica de Sant Feliu is a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architectural styles, reflecting the building’s long construction history. The church was originally built in the 10th century, and over the centuries, it underwent various expansions and modifications. The most significant of these changes occurred in the 14th century, when the Gothic style was introduced.
However, one of the most recognisable parts of the Basílica is its belltower, visible from afar and standing tall above much of the old city. The church’s Romanesque facade and large front rose window are aso defining features of the design.
The site of the church was originally used for early Christian worship and has a strong historical connection to the region’s Christianization. According to local tradition, it is believed that the first Christian church on this site was built in the 6th century and dedicated to Saint Feliu, an early Christian martyr whose name has endured.
Architectural Wonders
One of the most compelling reasons to visit Girona is its stunning architecture. The city is a living museum, with a remarkable blend of Gothic, Romanesque, and medieval structures which includes the Basílica that offer insight into its diverse history.
The Arab Baths, located just below the cathedral, are another impressive example of Girona’s architectural heritage. Built in the 12th century, these baths were inspired by Roman bathhouses and feature a series of beautifully preserved rooms with vaulted ceilings and intricate stonework. The baths offer a glimpse into the city’s cultural exchange during the time of the Moors and provide a peaceful spot to reflect on Girona’s layered history.
The Jewish Quarter, or El Call, is one of the most enchanting areas in Girona. It’s a maze of narrow, winding streets, hidden squares, and medieval buildings that offer a rare glimpse into the city’s once-thriving Jewish community. The Museum of Jewish History is located here, along a narrow yet enchanting stone pathway, providing an informative look into the Jewish presence in Girona from the 9th century until the community’s expulsion in the late 15th century. Walking through the Jewish Quarter, I feel transported back in time. The its stone streets and preserved structures offer a haunting sense of the past.
City Centre
The rest of Girona’s historic center is also reflective of the past. The Cathedral’s piazza with its imposing cathedral stairs and other significant historic buildings provide a true sense of medieval Girona. Not to mention the narrow, winding streets which provide wonderful spots for photo ops.
Another iconic sight in Girona is the Onyar River, which flows through the heart of the city. The river is flanked by colorful buildings with brightly painted facades. These have become one of the most photographed scenes in Girona. The Pont de Ferro (Iron Bridge) crosses the Onyar and offers panoramic views of the river and the old town, making it anoter perfect photo op location.
Inside & Outside The City Walls
For those who wish to take in a broader view of Girona, the city walls offer a scenic walk. Stunning views over the old town and surrounding countryside abound from these ancient fortifications which date back to Roman times. Later expanded during the medieval period, they are some of the best-preserved city walls in Spain. The elevated vantage points allows an appreciation of the city’s unique layout. With its maze of narrow streets, terracotta rooftops and the Onyar River flowing through the center, Griona does not disappoint.
Inside the walls, Girona is also known for its culinary scene. In particular El Celler de Can Roca is one of the world’s top restaurants, run by the Roca brothers. Girona’s rich food scene is a reflective of the region’s agricultural heritage. Farmer’s markets, fresh produce, artisanal cheeses, Catalan specialties like xuixo (sweet custard filled pastry) and cava (Catalan sparkling wine) abound.
Despite its historical roots, Girona is also a modern city. This morning there is a thriving shopping scene, contemporary cafes and a youthful energy. The youthful energy is due to an enthusiastic Saturday morning tourist crowd, the bright sunshine and vibrant student population.
In addition, Girona’s Festival of Flowers, held annually in May, is one of the city’s most beloved cultural events. During this time, the city’s public spaces, streets and monuments are transformed into vibrant floral displays for the enjoyment of all.
Good To Know
Girona’s proximity to Barcelona makes it easily accessible as a day trip while it’s also the perfect base for exploring the surrounding region of Catalonia. The nearby Costa Brava offers rugged coastal landscapes, charming seaside villages and beautiful beaches. With a bit more time, the Pyrenees mountains to the north provide opportunities for hiking, skiing and exploring mountain towns.
Girona is a city where the past and present harmoniously coexist. From its historic Jewish Quarter to its stunning cathedral and modern culinary scene, the city offers a wealth of experiences. Whether you’re an architecture enthusiast, a history lover or simply seeking a charming city, Girona will leave a lasting impression.
Would I Return?
Yes.
