Welcome to Abu Simbel, one of the most awe-inspiring archaeological sites in Egypt and a testament to the grandeur of the ancient Egyptian civilization. We arrive at the site on the banks of Lake Nasser in southern Egypt, on a spectacular day in October. Up early for the flight from Cairo to Aswan and then another 3 hours drive south, it’s already late morning. Despite this, I’m bursting with excitement.
Abu Simbel consists of two massive rock-cut temples built by Pharaoh Ramses II in the 13th century BC. Dedicated to the gods, the temples also serve as a monument to Ramses II, his power and military triumphs.
History of Abu Simbel
Ramses II built the temples of Abu Simbel to commemorate his victory at the Battle of Kadesh against the Hittites. They also serve to assert his own and Egypt’s dominance in the region. A third reason, was to honor the gods, in particular Ra-Horakhty, Ptah and Amun. Ramses didn’t miss the opportunity to honor himself at the time, although admittedly he was already deified in his lifetime.
In the 1960s, the construction of the Aswan High Dam threatened to submerge Abu Simbel under the rising waters of Lake Nasser. In an extraordinary feat of engineering, an international effort led by UNESCO carefully relocated the temples. Workers achieved this by cutting up the temples and relocating them to higher ground, preserving them for future generations. They dissected the temples into more than 1,000 blocks to facilitate the relocation. This seems almost as much of an engineering feat as the original construction.
I arrive today with some fellow work colleagues to explore this intoxicating site of history, engineering and preservation. Our guide takes us through some of the fascinating stories of the Great Temple of Ramses II and the Temple of his Queen Nefertari.
The Great Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel
The Great Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel is one of the most impressive and well-preserved monuments from ancient Egypt. Ramses II commissioned the temple around 1264 BC to honor his military power, divine status, and devotion to the gods. Builders carved it directly into the sandstone cliffs overlooking the Nile, completing it after 20 years of work. Its grand façade features four colossal statues of Ramses II. Each stands 20 meters tall, seated on a throne and wears the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt.
The statues face east, symbolically greeting the rising sun each day. Between the colossal figures, smaller statues of Ramses’ family members, including his wife Nefertari and some children, are depicted. This image reinforces the pharaoh’s role as both a divine ruler and protector of his lineage.
Above the entrance, a carving of Ra-Horakhty, the sun god, stands with a falcon head and solar disc. The image is flanked by figures of Ramses offering maat (truth) symbolizing the king’s divine connection and role as a bringer of cosmic order.
Inside the temple, a hypostyle hall with eight massive pillars, shaped like Ramses in the form of Osiris, emphasizes the pharaoh’s connection to the afterlife. The hall’s walls are adorned with detailed reliefs depicting Ramses’ military triumphs. Most famously, these include the Battle of Kadesh against the Hittites. This lead to the earliest known peace treaty in history. One striking scene shows Ramses charging into battle on his chariot, firing arrows at his enemies.
The Great Temple’s Inner Sanctuary
Beyond the hall lies the second pillared hall leading to the sanctuary. In the sanctuary seated statues of Ptah, Amun, Ra-Horakhty, and Ramses himself reflect the pharaoh’s status as a living god. The temple’s most remarkable feature is its alignment with the sun. Twice a year, on February 22 and October 22, sunlight penetrates the temple’s inner chambers. As it aligns the sunlight illuminates the statues of Amun, Ra-Horakhty, and Ramses. Incredibly, that statue of Ptah, the god of darkness, is left in shadow.
The dates are significant. February 22 is believed to mark Ramses’ birthday and October 22 the date of his coronation.
This precise solar alignment reflects the ancient Egyptians’ advanced understanding of astronomy. It is also symbolic of the connection between the pharaoh and the gods. I’m completely blown away by this fact. Not just that the temple was built like this in the first place all those millennia ago. But the fact that the temple has been relocated in such a way that this phenomenon still occurs is just indescribably cool.
The Temple of Queen Nefertari at Abu Simbel
The Temple of Nefertari, also known as the Temple of Hathor, stands adjacent to the Great Temple. This proximity reflects both the political and personal dimensions of Ramses II’s reign. Unusually for ancient Egypt, the temple was dedicated not only to the gods but also to Nefertari, Ramses’ most beloved wife.
Completed around the same time as the Great Temple, the Temple of Nefertari honors both the goddess Hathor and the queen herself. The goddess Hathor is associated with motherhood, love, and music. The inclusion of Nefertari’s elevates her status to near-divine levels, similar to her husband.
The temple’s façade features six colossal statues, each about 10 meters tall, four of Ramses and two of Nefertari. Notably, Nefertari’s statues stand at equal height to those of Ramses. This is a rare and significant statement of the queen’s elevated role in both political and religious life. Surrounding the colossal statues are smaller figures representing the royal children, reinforcing the image of Nefertari as the mother of Egypt’s future rulers.
Inside, the temple’s architectural plan mirrors that of the Great Temple, though on a smaller scale. The first hall contains six Hathor-headed columns, representing the goddess’s protective and nurturing power. The walls are decorated with vibrant reliefs depicting Nefertari being crowned and blessed by Hathor and Isis, a scene that underscores her divine status. One striking image shows Nefertari standing before Hathor, receiving the sacred sistrum (a musical instrument) as a symbol of her devotion and harmony with the gods. Another scene shows Ramses and Nefertari presenting offerings to the gods together, highlighting the queen’s role not only as consort but as a spiritual intermediary.
Queen Nefertari’s Inner Sanctum
The temple’s inner sanctuary houses a statue of Hathor as a sacred cow emerging from a mountain, symbolizing fertility and the maternal strength of the goddess. The harmonious balance of divine imagery, personal devotion, and political symbolism in the Temple of Nefertari reflects Ramses II’s deep affection for his queen and his desire to immortalize their bond in stone.
Both the Great Temple of Ramses II and the Temple of Nefertari at Abu Simbel reflect not only the architectural and artistic achievements of ancient Egypt but also the complex interplay of political power, religious symbolism, and personal devotion.
While the Great Temple projects Ramses’ might as a military and divine ruler, the Temple of Nefertari reflects the rare and significant elevation of a queen alongside a pharaoh. The remarkable solar alignment of the Great Temple and the intimate portrayal of Nefertari’s divine role in the smaller temple underscore the sophistication of ancient Egyptian engineering and the profound symbolism of Ramses’ legacy.
The combination of royal power, religious symbolism, and personal devotion makes Abu Simbel one of the most extraordinary and emotionally resonant sites in Egypt. It was both a pleasure and a privilege to visit here.
Good To Know
The Abu Simbel location is not easy to get to. There is a local airport, otherwise flights from Cairo to Aswan and a long drive awaits. Tour guides are available at the site and it’s well worth the extra cost to have the story told and important features pointed out while you’re there.
I was lucky enough to visit with work colleagues, however, tours can be booked departing Cairo and/or Aswan. Most tours include additional temples located in and around Aswan. Plan in advance, there isn’t much else around Abu Simbel in terms of tourism.
Would I Return?
Yes.
