Jason has spotted Les Bains du Castel on a morning walk and has surprised me with a booking for this evening. The stunning location is enough to set it aside as special occasion dining. We have already experienced a fair share of wonderful dining over the last couple of weeks during or Côte d’Azur holiday. However, somehow I now feel like the best is yet to come.
Arriving for our 7:30pm booking, it’s early by French Riviera dining standards. Sunset is still at least an hour away and bonne dégustation doesn’t really get going here until at least then. Beforehand sits firmly in aperitif territory for the serious diner as far as I have witnessed.
I’m glad that we have time. Time for an aperitif, time to relax, time to enjoy the view awaiting the sunset and eventually to enjoy dinner.
Hors d’oeuvres
A small chef’s taster is delivered to our table, even before we have a chance to order some drinks. The watermelon with octopus ceviche is delivered and we place a drinks order. Jason has selected a cool, crisp French white, the La Chablisienne Chablis. I have been tempted by champagne to go with my half dozen oysters and select a glass of the Joseph Perrier Brut. Soon we have our drinks in hand and are able to enjoy the small hors d’oeuvres. We raise our glasses in a toast. To our time together, grateful to people and circumstances that allow us to be here, in this moment.
Right now I’m enjoying nothing more than just being. It’s a rare feeling. With Jason, in this beautiful city, with this incredible view. A nice day behind us – snorkelling Nice – and a delicious Les Bains experience ahead. Plus the sunset.
I’m pretty sure not every day on the Côte d’Azur is like this. While the Mediterranean location brings months of delightful summer weather, warm days, blue skies and plenty of sun, I’m sure that as the leaves start to turn and the clouds roll in, heralding the change of season, that winter spent in a summer town must bring its own hardships. All the more reason to savour this moment.
Baie des Anges
We take in the stunning view of the Baie des Anges and coastline stretching for kilometers of beach before curving out to the airport. Planes come and go, manny more than I would have thought or expected. Bringing expectant tourists in, flying satisfied souls home.
Closer in, boats and jetskis host adrenaline seekers. Boats do well mapped laps, towing parasailers, who are no doubt themselves taking in astonishing views of their own. Jetskis duck and weave the waves, no sooner has a rider conquered them than the ride is over. Closer again, we can see the beachgoers and swimmers. Some with sun lounges and umbrellas, some with towels spread or bunched on the rocky shore.
People are eating, drinking, sleeping, walking, laughing, playing. Heads bob up and down in the surf. Blow up floating devices of all colors and shapes can be distinguished from the riders. A few are doing proper laps. Not just heads bobbing in the water with occasional toes breaking the surface. These serious swimmers have a 7km stretch to really pace it out. Arms reach out over and over, legs kick furiously. Less serious swimmers with snorkels float around closer still, some coming under the balcony we sit on, exploring the rocky end of the bay close up.
More adrenaline seekers of a different variety are immediately behind me, jumping off rocks. Mostly teenage boys. Long pauses punctuate the surges of dives and splashing. Presumably this is the time it takes to pluck up the courage to jump.
Closer still, diners start to populate the tables around us. More waiters appear with menus. My oyster platter arrives.
Entree
Jason has foregone entree, choosing instead to await the main event. I’m very much looking forward to mine. This is an Oysters Spécials Gillardeau No 3 platter with house dressing and pink lady apples.
Enormous and succulent looking, if they’re not incredible here then I wouldn’t be sure where else to find them. The sun is sinking lower and I have managed to pace myself on my glass of Champagne so as I can savor it together with the oysters.
They not only look exquisite, presented in a huge dish of crushed ice, each one delicately placed. In the middle is the herby house accompaniment with little bits of pink lady apples. Around them, edible garnish – wedges of lemon, strings of seaweed, micro herbs, slices of pink lady apples and berries. A platter of perfection.
Jason doesn’t eat oysters and he’s content to observe my delight. I take my time, savouring each bit in between savoring each sip.
Along the shoreline umbrellas are closing, sun lounges now deserted. Fewer heads bob in the water as our main courses arrive. The sun sinks lower still.
Main Course
I have ordered the sea bass fillet with vine leaf wrapped vegetables, roast mushrooms in a creamy sauce. Jason couldn’t go past the veal, a fillet cooked at low temperature with crunchy sour carrots, vadouvan sauce, citrus carrot puree, orange supremes and coriander. Despite this being a fish restaurant, the veal presents rather exquisitely.
We savour our meals, Jason pairs his with a red. In between bites we watch the sky as the sun sinks lower, disappearing behind the horizon. Lights sparkle on along the shore and the sky is it’s own moonlight cinema. The scene changes color and shape before our eyes as night closes in.
Dessert
The water reflects the shining lights along the shore as our chocolate praline tart arrives.
The little work of art is created with cocoa shortbread, dark chocolate cream, hazelnut praline and dark chocolate crisp.
Like a story unfurling, the evening has served our courses as the night unfuls around us. With our last divine bite of chocolatey deliciousness, the darkness envelopes as we leave the delight of our night at Les Bains behind us. We follow the sparkling string of lights along the water, leading back to our last night at the Palais de la Méditerranée.
Good To Know
While the white tablecloths and hard to find entrance give off an air of exclusive sophistication, Les Bains du Castel is anything but pretentious. The relaxed dining atmosphere, professional unfussy waitstaff and stunning location make this a night to remember.
Pair this with an exquisite sunset and equally exquisite food and this is truly an unforgettable evening.
Les Bains du Castel is open April to November, check website for details. Reservations are recommended via events@castelplage.com.
Would I Return?
Yes. Absolutely.