Set on the north shore of the stunning îles de Lérins, La Tonnelle is a gem amongst the shining pearls of the island.
The Setting
We have ferried across from Cannes this morning and circumnavigated the tiny island by foot, attended mass and found a shady spot for a snooze, all before lunch. I’m looking forward to this one.
La Tonnelle is run by the resident monastery and although it caters to the tourist crowd, it feels decidedly local. The menu is distinctively French inspired, and the set menu offers a taste of simple, fresh and honest French fare. We quickly settle on the set menu, which had me at fig tartine, followed by a consomme inspired main, hearty yet also somehow summary and light. It goes well with our island produced crisp Abbaye de Lérins Saint Pierre.
Grown on the island and part of the monastery’s income, purpose and culture, we have already walked around and discovered the vineyards. Many a monastery has survived due to viticulture and this one is no different. They also have a wonderful range of jams and other local island produce for sale, a tradition that has lived here for centuries.
Like many other monasteries, this one is rather isolated. Far from being perched high up in rocky mountains, however, Abbaye de Lérins is perched all alone on this tiny island surrounded by sea and miles from the mainland.
Just like being at the end of a long mountain path, life would have been difficult here before the days of hourly ferry timetables. Perhaps not quite as harsh as snowy mountain tops, the island is still quite exposed. While the summers are warm and pleasant, this would have been a busy time for the resident monks, tending the vines, fruit and vegetables, harvesting and processing for the long lonely winter ahead.
The Restaurant
Today, the island is open for all to enjoy. The monastery produces its own solar power and earns income from it produce and ferried tourists that patron La Tonnelle, the restaurant and the small café located nearby. The current renovations and restorations to the historical tower is just one of the projects enabled by our tourist Euros. We order another glass of wine, feeling justified that it will go one of the monastery’s good causes.
When we get to the meal, our entree is delicious. Savory tart with goat’s cheese and fig. I make a mental note to let Mum know the recipe for her fig harvest.
Next, our main is equally delicious perfectly balanced me. Sea bream fillet cooked in fish soup with potatoes and vegetables. It tastes better than it looks and sounds, finishing, light fresh and salt kissed, but not salty. Just like sea air.
We sit and soak it in. It reminds me a little of the beach bar and restaurant at Le Meridien, Fujeriah. Only this seems if not better, then clearer. Cleaner, clearer air and clearer water. Perhaps it’s just the time of year or my better mood.
We decide to upgrade from our two course lunch to three and splurge on dessert. The Pâtisserie du jour is a wonderful fruit tart. It’s lovely. A little bit flaky, not so sweet, but full of flavor in just the right way.
Soon we have no excuse to linger any longer. The staff are packing up around us. The last ferry leaves in a few hours, and even if the restaurant was open for dinner, the patronage would be limited to those living on the island or staying at the monastery. We take ourselves back up the path to the tree under which Jason had snoozed earlier in the day. Setting up the towels, the sea is calling and we decide on an afternoon dip to swim off our La Tonnelle experience.
Good To Know
The ferry from Cannes Harbor goes hourly to/from the island in the summer months. La Tonnelle closes during winter, check the website for details.
Would I Return?
Yes.
