It’s Summer Day 3 and we spend the day in & around Antibes. The day starts with procuring breakfast from the local markets after which we take a trip to the lighthouse Phare de la Garoupe on the famous Cap d’Antibes. Lunch at the Royal Beach, a visit to Musee Picasso located on Antibes medieval ramparts and an aperitif in the bustling old town tops off the day.
Breakfast
Coffee is first on the list today. Although our Airbnb apartment has a coffee machine, we buy pods only to figure out that it doesn’t work. Undeterred we head out in the morning determined to find some decent coffee and preferably an almond croissant for breakfast. The town was bustling with boulangeries and patisseries last night, so I’m a bit taken back this morning when it is harder to find one than it should be.
In the end this is fortuitous as we stumble across the local markets. Here we find freshly made socca, the local savory pancake specialty make with chic pea flour. In addition to the almond croissants, we throw in a couple of crepes with Nutella. Surely enough to get us through the morning!
Plage de La Gravette
On to the beach where we lay out our provisons and feast on our freshly made French breakfast. Contintental has never been so good.
This is followed by a swim. The local beach is Plage de la Gravette. A little protected spot accessed through the town’s ramparts from the harbor. The swimming area is surrounded by rock break walls and shallow enough to stand in all but a few deeper spots. Jason & Jasper spend a good three quarters of an hour snorkeling the circumference.
Phare de la Garoupe
Later in the day we head for a walk around Phare de la Garoupe. There’s a church here – Eglise Notre Dame de la Garoupe – however when we arrive, both the church and adjoining restaurant that I have chosen for lunch (Le Bistrot du Curé), are closed.
Nevertheless the stormy views are rather spectacular and we take some time to walk around the area. There is also a lighthouse here, the Phare de la Garoupe, plus some houses and a complex belonging to the lighthouse and church.
This historic lighthouse dates back to the first half of the nineteenth century, however the current structure was rebuilt in 1948 following its complete destruction by German troops during WWII.
It has a luminous range of up to 60km, one of the most popular on the Mediterranean coast. We climb the 30m of spiraling stairs to the top.
From here there are sweeping views of the city managed park that covers 9 hectares of the peninsula as well as the swanky estates of the Cap d’Antibes.
Garoupe Park
After exploring the lighthouse and surrounds, we plunge down the steep cobbled walkway through the surrounding forest. The forest is beautiful, the woods thick and lush, filled with the noise of cicadas and bird calls. I breathe in the scent of summer flowers as we pass an opening in the wall that looks like it leads to a secret garden.
The path (Chemin du Calverie, road of Calvary) is lined with the Stations of the Cross. Because we’re walking downhill and away from the church we’re counting backwards from 12 to 1. The sturdy stations are marked with each relative number and presumably designed as a small chapel for offerings. It seems that these have been barred, again presumably, to prevent damage. This is a shame as you now have to peer through the screen to fully appreciate the beautiful decorations. Still, they’re lovely and give a sense of pilgrimage to the path leading to the top.
The rest of the path remains steep and cobbled, yet shady and protected in lush surroundings all the way down to the Port de la Salis.
Royal Beach & The Picasso Museum
Once along the esplanade at Port de La Salis, we enjoy flatter ground and a some bay breezes.
This is another of the pretty little ports on the French Riviera. Its magical today with the stormy morning skies giving way to afternoon sun sparkling off the water. There are views of the ramparts and the heaving Plage du Ponteil with the parched summer mountains unquenched by the few drops of rain in the background.
Fortuitously we stumble across Royal Beach (at Plage du Ponteil) and pause for a memorable lunch. After our meal, accompanied by a bottle of local rose, the walk back to Antibes and a visit to the Picasso Museum seem even more attractive.
Antibes
Back in Antibes old town for the evening, we find a spot along the bustling Rue Aubernon for an aperitif near to sunset.
There are many bars that sell drinks, sometimes with tapas as well. Look for happy hour deals or just choose the cutest looking option or alternatively somewhere with an available table!
Aperol spritz is the summer drink of the Côte d’Azur and I can’t resist. Jason orders a large beer, another popular choice. We people watch for the duration, too exhausted from our 16,000 step day to engage in scintillating conversation. Tomorrow is another day.
Good To Know
Phare de la Garoupe is a pleasant 2.5km walk from Antibes along a very picturesque coastline. We approached the journey somewhat in reverse, catching an Uber to the top and then walking down the hill and back up the coast.
Would I Return?
Yes. The bistrot at Phare de la Garoupe seems worth checking out and I’d still like to see the church. Plus, there are many more aperitif options to explore on any otherwise unoccupied evening.