On a picturesque corner along Rue Thuret in the old town pedestrian zone of Antibes, lies Bistrot Chez Jules. The Bistrot, along with twin, Restaurant Don Juan, take up three of the four corners at the intersection of Rue des Casemates and I’m taken by the sheer Frenchness of the scene. This is what makes me insist that this is the place we should stop for dinner in our first night in Antibes.
Browsing the menu, everything sounds good. Jasper deliberates over pastas and eventually settles on a gnocchi in truffles, a sophisticated choice for a thirteen year old. Jason and I are tempted by several of the specials, in the end agreeing to share the stuffed zucchini flowers (a must, in season), calamari fritti (a classic) and a melanzane parmigiana that I can’t get out of my mind.
The evening holiday vibe is completely relaxed tourist. It seems everyone is on holidays here. Even the wait staff seem to have a resigned air about them, rushed but not panicky – the tourists will wait. In fact, whilst very relaxed, it does also seem rather local with the majority of our surrounding patrons conversing in French.
As the sky turns through shades of blue, first bright, then cyan, deepening to royal, the stars come out. A musician sets up on the corner and starts crooning. It is THE perfect scene. People eating, drinking (some excellent cocktails), laughing and relaxing. Lots of French and a laissez faire attitude. If the other patrons aren’t on holidays, they’re doing an outstanding job of forgetting their troubles tonight. We order drinks and cheers to our summer break, looking forward to forgetting for a while too. Plus, we’re excited for the couple of weeks ahead.
Being so close to Italy there’s a heavy Italian influence here, although the locals might argue that it’s distinctly Niçois. Indeed, Florent, the founder, was born in Nice, and is therefore forever Niçois. Florent learned his craft from his grandmother, living, thinking and taking pleasure from the local cuisines, produced from local products. This instilled in him a deep passion for his dishes combined with a deep respect for his roots.
A simple and refined dining experience that brings natural products and flavors together. A philosophy of no unnecessary sauces or fanciful emulsions, no revisits or incredible flavor combinations. The outcome is a fresh, honest, lovely homemade Niçoise cuisine. The taste is the homage to quality and responsible production of each dish.
Certainly as our meals arrive, this philosophy is prevalent. The classics prevail. The calamari is fresh with a beautifully light batter and cooked just right. The accompanying aiolli is divine. My stuffed zucchini flowers are everything I was dreaming of and more (since I spotted them earlier on in the evening). Jasper’s gnocchi is delicious. Exquisitely light and perfectly imperfectly shaped, they’re handmade and also rather divine. The generous truffles are incredible and I request a few more bites from him, losing some calamari in the exchange.
Once the parmigiana has cooled down (it was still sizzling, straight from the oven), we serve it out. Gooey eggplant in the middle, a flavourful tomato base and so much grilled cheese that it almost creates a brulee like crust over the dish. Sitting back in between bites to listen to the music and take in the scene, I couldn’t be happier.
Great food, great atmosphere and the anticipation of a great holiday ahead. Nothing could be better in this moment. Except, perhaps, for another cocktail.
Good To Know
There seem to many great locals in amongst the tourist fodder in Antibes and Chez Jules must be at the top. We spot another across the lane from our Airbnb (Restaurant L’Arazur) which looks completely authentic and delightful. Another is recommended to me, Le Chaudron. Before selecting, take a moment to check the website for the background story and bookings. With a little research, you’ll be in for a treat.
Would I Return?
Yes.
