Pesaro, a charming coastal city nestled on Italy’s Adriatic coast, delivers a delightful blend of seaside relaxation, rich history and vibrant culture. Known for its sandy beaches, connection to classical music and elegant architecture, this underrated Italian destination offers a rewarding experience.
Even on a rainy day the seaside city of Pesaro, has a lot going for it. Not only is it full of cobbled cuteness, with the obligatory piazza surrounded by a medieval era town hall. It has a fortress, several churches, excellent gelato and a beach. What’s not to love?
People often ask me if I’m ready to leave Dubai, if I want to go home or somewhere else. My response is always that I miss home but I’m not ready to go back. I’d definitely try somewhere else. I know this doesn’t ring true for everyone though.
However, sitting in a piazza somewhere like Pesaro, I can understand not wanting to leave a place like this. Watching friends meet after work for an aperitif before dinner. Where walks through town together are a common occurrence and there’s a table, bench or patch of grass to pause on around every cobbled corner. Where a concert brings out the whole town and life seems a little slower, a bit more enjoyable, a bit more colorful.
I’m only here for 72 hours but Pesaro moves me in an unexpected way. It feels cosy and safe, a place to enjoy La dolce vita.
The Waterfront
I start my rainy afternoon walk on my first day at Pesaro’s beachfront, where the Adriatic Sea stretches toward the horizon. On a day like today, the beach takes on a peaceful, moody charm — the sound of waves mixing with the patter of rain creates a soothing backdrop.
Past all the empty sun chairs and along Pesaro’s seafront to the Piazzale della Libertà is the delightful Pomodoro Sphere (Sfera Grande di Pesaro). This striking bronze sculpture is by the Italian artist Arnaldo Pomodoro.
Installed in 1998, the sphere has become one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. Its polished, reflective surface contrasts with jagged, broken sections that reveal a complex, mechanical-looking interior — symbolizing the tension between perfection and inner complexity.
The sculpture’s seaside location enhances its impact, especially on a day such as today, as it reflects the changing light of the Adriatic and the movement of the sea.
The Old Town
After walking along the promenade, I head toward the heart of the city, where the Old Town’s narrow streets and historic buildings invite exploration under the cover of an umbrella.
I’m not far in to the old town proper when gelato steals my attention. I can’t help it and I pause for a fortifying gelato before moving on. After all, no Italian experience is complete without gelato, and Pesaro is no exception. My stop at this local gelateria, Gelateria del Corso, has me choosing my indulgence. Creamy flavors like pistachio, stracciatella or classic chocolate? Or the luscious tang of lemon, the sweet summer taste of fruit? I can’t go past lemon and in the end, pair it with strawberry, it’s ideal partner. The sweetness provides the perfect lift as I wander through the rain-slicked cobbled streets.
Rossini Theatre
The pedestrian streets are all but empty in the rain. I wander through without map or destination and come across the delightful Rossini Theatre, a nod to Pesaro’s musical heritage.
This beautiful neoclassical venue is dedicated to the city’s most famous son, Gioachino Rossini, the composer of The Barber of Seville. Even if there’s no performance, the theater’s elegant interior is worth poking your head into and the rich history makes it a fascinating stop.
Rocca Costanza – The Historic Fortress
I wander a bit further with a stop or two in some of the enticing little chocolate and souvenir shops that still persist during the rain. Soon I find myself in front of the imposing Rocca Costanza, a 15th-century fortress built to defend the city. Its thick walls and impressive (now dry) moat reflect Pesaro’s strategic past. Exploring the fortress on a rainy day adds to the atmospheric feel, with the sound of raindrops echoing off ancient stone walls. Unfortunately the fortress is exactly that, a fortress. It’s not open and appears impenetrable enough. I circumnavigate it and then continue back into the Old Town proper.
Palazzo Ducale
Pesaro’s Palazzo Ducale is one of the city’s most significant and elegant historical landmarks. Situated in the Piazza del Popolo, right at the heart of the city, this Renaissance palace reflects Pesaro’s rich political and artistic history.
The palace is a stunning example of Renaissance architecture with Gothic influences. Built in the 15th century by Alessandro Sforza, it later became the residence of the Della Rovere family. Designed by leading Renaissance architects, the palace features a symmetrical facade, elegant arches and refined stonework. Its courtyard is particularly striking, with graceful columns and Renaissance detailing.
Today, Palazzo Ducale serves as the seat of the Prefecture of Pesaro and Urbino. While much of its original art collection has been lost, the palace retains traces of historical frescoes and decorative elements. Its grand presence in Piazza del Popolo makes it a key cultural and historical landmark in Pesaro. While some areas open to the public during events and exhibitions, there is no access tonight. There’s much activity in the Piazza and I learn that they’re setting up for a concert tomorrow night. I vow to return.
Concert in Piazza del Popolo
If it’s at all possible, Piazza del Popolo is even more enchanting when I return the following evening. As the day winds down, people fill the Piazza, the lively heart of Pesaro. The rain has cleared tonight and the square is buzzing with excitement. I have no idea of the schedule but given I’m fortunate to be in the right place at the right time, I vow to stay and catch the open-air concert. I have a long wait. After an hour or so, the music gets underway and the combination of live music and the square’s Renaissance architecture creates an unforgettable ambiance. If only I was looking out from one of those windows, enjoying a glass of local wine or an aperitivo at one of the surrounding cafes as I take in the vibrant scene.
Good To Know
Pesaro’s charm lies in its ability to blend coastal beauty, historical richness and modern music — even on a rainy day. Whether you’re savoring gelato, discovering cultural landmarks, or soaking up live music in the square, Pesaro promises a memorable experience in any weather.
Would I Return?
Yes.