I wake early for my Milan walking tour and set out on a mild morning. The city’s infectious energy already hums through the streets as I walk the route directly into the heart of Milan.
Arriving in front of the magnificent Duomo di Milano, I’m in awe. This is a breathtaking sight that somehow exceeded even my highest expectations. Its intricate Gothic spires stretch toward the sky, and the sheer scale of the façade is quite formidable. I stand for a while, just gazing before a swooping pigeon brings me back to reality.
Duomo di Milano
It should be unsurprising that the Duomo di Milano, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, dominates Piazza del Duomo, is overwhelming.
Its construction began in 1386 under Gian Galeazzo Visconti and spanned nearly six centuries. The result is a cathedral adorned with over 3,400 statues, 135 spires and a façade of intricate white marble sourced from the Candoglia quarries. The sheer scale of the Duomo is staggering. The towering spires seem to pierce the sky, while gargoyles and saints watch from their perches high above.
I’m grateful now that I had the foresight to book a separate tour of the Duomo later today.
Milan’s Viper
For now we head along the P.za del Duomo and stop along the side of the Palazzo Reale di Milano. Here, my guide from GuruWalk stops to point out the viper (or snake ) on the building. Apart from appearing on modern-day Milan logos, think iconic Alfa Romeo, Inter Milan FC and Channel 5, the viper also represents the coat of arms of Visconti family (think Duomo construction supervisor cica 1386).
Sometimes also depicted as a serpent or dragon, the central motif of the Visconti’s family crest is a symbol of one of Milan’s most powerful noble families. during the Middle Ages and Renaissance. It is also has significant historical and cultural significance and is thus intrinsically linked to the city’s medieval heritage.
The Visconti family used the viper as a symbol of strength, resilience, and dominance. The specific design of the viper, sometimes shown as coiled or with a crown, represented the family’s ability to protect and rule over Milan and its territories. The symbol also reflected the family’s connection to the mythological and symbolic power of serpents. These have been seen throughout history as creatures embodying both wisdom and danger.
The Visconti family ruled until 1447, and the time represents a golden age for Italy’s central north region. It was a one of Europe’s major trade and commercial centres, and, as the capital of the Duchy of Milan, one of the greatest political, artistic and fashion forces in the Renaissance.
Over time, the viper symbol remained an important emblem of Milan’s identity, and it continues to be a part of the city’s coat of arms and historical iconography. It symbolizes Milan’s deep-rooted history and its connection to the Visconti legacy, marking the city’s power, influence, and its long-standing presence in Italy’s political and cultural landscape.
Basilica di San Nazaro in Brolo
Our next stop is the Basilica di San Nazaro in Brolo, one of Milan’s oldest and most historically significant churches. I’m fascinated to hear that it was built between 382 and 386 during the reign of Emperor Constantine, and holds a key place in early Christian history. Though its exterior may seem modest, it was here that Constantine legalized Christianity, marking it as a crucial site for the faith’s development in Milan. The name “in Brolo” refers to the church’s location in a former brolo (a walled garden) on the outskirts of ancient Milan. The basilica was dedicated to San Nazaro, a Christian martyr and one of the city’s patron saints.
Architecturally, the basilica reflects centuries of change and adaptation. It is the oldest Latin cross church in Europe, built in the shape of a cross to symbolize the resurrection of Jesus. Over the years, it was expanded and renovated in the Romanesque and Renaissance styles, adding layers of architectural detail. While the exterior is simple, the interior is adorned with beautiful frescoes and artwork from various periods. Marco points out the different bricks at the back of the church, showing evidence of the original structure and the various additions made over the centuries.
The basilica’s crypt houses the relics of San Nazaro, making it a major pilgrimage site for centuries. It also became a center of spiritual life for Milanese nobility, with several important figures buried here. Over time, the basilica served as a hub for religious and cultural exchange in Milan. Today, it remains a vital religious site and a symbol of Milan’s deep Christian roots and artistic heritage. The Basilica di San Nazaro in Brolo stands as a testament to Milan’s enduring spiritual and cultural legacy.
Ca’ Granda
Right next to the Basilica is Ca’ Granda, one of Milan’s most important Renaissance landmarks. Originally built as a public hospital, it now serves as the main campus of the Università degli Studi di Milano (University of Milan).
Marco has our walking group fascinated by it’s story. In 1447 the last Visconti duke died and his son in law, Francesco Sforza took over as the Duke of Milan. Sforza commissioned the hospital in 1456 as part of a larger effort to centralise healthcare for the city’s poor and provide what was, at the time, state-of-the-art medical care.
The Florentine architect Filarete (Antonio di Pietro Averulino) was tasked with the design, combining Renaissance architectural elegance with practical hospital functions. Construction spanned over four centuries due to political and financial interruptions, with various architects eventually contributing to its completion.
Architecturally, Ca’ Granda isn’t just ‘elegant’, it’s a masterpiece of Renaissance design. Its symmetrical layout features a large rectangular courtyard surrounded by elegant terracotta columns and arched porticoes. The red brick façade, decorated with white marble details, reflects a blend of Florentine and Lombard styles. The hospital’s design was innovative for its time, with wards and recovery rooms arranged to maximize light and airflow — a reflection of Renaissance ideals of health and order. The hospital continued operating until 1939. Even then, despite damage from bombings during World War II, the structure was carefully restored to preserve its original character.
Università degli Studi di Milano
It wasn’t until 1958 that Ca’ Granda became the headquarters of the University of Milan, transforming from a center of healing into a hub of learning and research. Today, it houses administrative offices, lecture halls, and part of the university’s extensive library. The central courtyard and cloisters remain open to the public, offering a quiet retreat amidst the bustle of the city.
Ca’ Granda stands as a testament to Milan’s civic and architectural history — a place where the city’s past and present intersect with elegance and purpose, similar to that of Sant Pau in Barcelona.
Piazza Santo Stefano
We move on to Piazza Santo Stefano, which contains both the Santuario di san Bernardino alle Ossa and Santo Stefano Maggiore.
The Church of San Bernardino alle Ossa is a small but historically significant church. It’s known for its macabre yet fascinating ossuary decorated with human bones. Its origins date back to the 13th century and are closely tied to the city’s burial practices and hospital system.
The church’s history began in 1210 when a nearby hospital and cemetery became overcrowded. This lead to the construction of an ossuary to store the excess remains. A small chapel was built adjacent to the ossuary to provide a place for prayer. In 1269, the Church of San Bernardino was added to serve as a more formal place of worship. The Baroque style design is due to its being rebuilt after a fire in 1712 which severely damaged the original structure. Despite the rebuilding, the ossuary’s original structure and decorations were preserved.
Santo Stefano Maggiore is a lesser-known but historically significant church founded in 417AD. Its modest Romanesque façade hides a surprisingly rich interior and dark past. It was here in 1476 that Galeazzo Maria Sforza, the Duke of Milan, was assassinated during Christmas mass.
Along with these two churches, Piazza Santo Stefano is lined with elegant historic buildings, creating a harmonious architectural backdrop. Its small, central fountain adds to the square’s tranquility and the lack of heavy traffic makes it a pleasant spot to stop. I wouldn’t mind grabbing a coffee and sitting for a bit to soak in the atmosphere, but Marco has us off again.
Campanile delle Ore
On our way to the Campanile delle Ore, an ancient bell tower standing beside the Palazzo della Ragione, Marco points out a street, the Via Laghetto.
Laghetto means lake and this street used to be a lake. In fact, it was attached to Milan’s network of canals. Before Milan could become the major commercial and trade hub that is is, it needed a waterway. The large Lake Maggiore, on Italy’s Swiss border and the more famous Lake Como, both have rivers that head south from them, running either side of Milan. They chose these, giving birth to Europe’s first major medieval feat of engineering infrastructure. The canal waters reached the Naviglio Grande, Milan’s main canal, in 1211.
Back to the Campanile delle Ore and the ancient bell tower that once served as the city’s public clock, marking the city’s time, as well as a warning bell for fires and attacks. Standing beneath it, I reflect on the layers of history that make Milan so captivating. It’s medieval trade routes and hospital system just as appealing as its modern day fashion and art.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Any tour of Milan isn’t complete without a visit to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, one of the oldest shopping arcades in the world. Not only does it house some of the world’s most coveted labels, it is also a temple of elegance and style. The signature glass and iron vaulted ceiling arched overhead, creates a soft canopy of light above the luxurious boutiques, spilling over the mosaic floors below. I feel conspicuous in my tourist attire. watching well-dressed locals sipping espresso at chic cafés and taking tiny, elegant nibbles of morning pastries.
Built between 1865 and 1877 and named after the first king of unified Italy. The mosaic floor beneath my feet depicts the symbols of the Italian city-states — Turin’s bull, Florence’s lily, Rome’s she-wolf, and Milan’s cross. I watch as tourists and locals alike pause to spin their heel on the bull’s mosaic, a tradition said to bring good luck.
From below I gaze up at the window of Marchesi. This historic café that’s been serving customers since 1824. I vow to myself to come back.
Piazza della Scala
Through the Galleria on the opposite entrance to the Piazza del Duomo is the Piazza della Scala. Home to the world-famous Teatro alla Scala (Opera House), which opened in 1778 with a performance of Antonio Salieri’s Europa riconosciuta.
Its neoclassical façade, designed by Giuseppe Piermarini, conceals one of the most prestigious opera houses in the world. I try to imagine the performances of Verdi, Puccini, and Toscanini that have graced its stage. Across the square stood a statue of Leonardo da Vinci, installed in 1872, his gaze directed toward the theater as if contemplating the city’s artistic legacy.
Piazza dei Mercanti
Another short walk away, we discovere the quiet charm of Piazza dei Mercanti, Milan’s medieval heart. In the 13th century, this square served as the city’s commercial and administrative center.
The Palazzo della Ragione, built in 1233, still stands proudly. Its red brick façade and arched porticoes evoke an era when merchants gathered here to trade goods and settle disputes. The 14th century Loggia degli Osii, with elegant black and white marble detailing, was once the seat of judicial power. The square’s stillness is a stark contrast to the lively crowds near the Duomo. Again I feel a sense of stepping back in time. I imagine the merchants and nobles who once crossed these cobbled stones, conducting business beneath the arches before the Duomo calls me back for a closer look.
Good To Know
Over the coming week I return to some of these places as Milan continues reveals itself to me. Marco has only scratched the surface of the stories of this city’s landmarks and layers of history. It’s clear that power, art and faith have shaped and reshaped the city. But it isn’t just the beauty of the architecture or the vibrancy of the streets that stays with me. It is the sense of continuity, the feeling that Milan’s past and present intertwine in every cobblestone of every Piazza.
My Wonders of Milan walking tour was led by Marco from Citywalkers and booked through GuruWalk. Marco’s passion and enthusiasm for his city and its story shined through the experience. He put history in context in a completely unique way. The only downside was that it left me wanting more.
Would I Return?
Yes.
