Kutaisi is an historic city located in the west of Georgia and walking Kutaisi only begins to unlock some of its wonders. Strategically located, Kutaisi served as the capital of the Kingdom of Colchis and is the origin of the Golden Fleece.
On the city’s outskirts, the Gelati Monastery is a medieval cathedral with elaborate frescoes. The nearby hillside Motsameta Monastery has martyrs’ remains. Historical Georgian manuscripts, ceramics and textiles are on display at the Kutaisi State Historical Museum. To the northwest, Prometheus Cave features petrified waterfalls.
History
The city is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world, having been inhabited as early as the 6th century BC. The Kingdom of the Colchis, the fabled land of gold and magic, refers to both the people and the geolocation. The Colchis (also Argonauts) inhabited what is today, modern western Georgia.
The legend of the Golden Fleece may be anchored in reality as part of western Georgia’s ancient tradition. From time immemorial, Georgians filtered gold from rivers using sheep fleeces.
It is believed that the myth was born of this tradition whereby Phrixus and his brother Helle, fled from their father, King Athamas, on the winged ram with the golden fleece. He was hunting them to sacrifice them to the gods in order to stop a terrible drought that had befallen the land. The drought had been brought on by Nephele, the King’s jealous wife after he left her for another woman, Ino. Ino had convinced the King that only the sacrifice of his children could stop the drought.
During the flight from their father, Helle fell from the ram and drowned, but Phrixus made it to the golden Kingdom of the Colchis. On arrival he sacrificed the ram and its Golden Fleece was hung on a huge oak tree in Ares’ (the god of war’s) forest. Guarded by a fearsome dragon and fire-breathing bulls, the Golden Fleece was a major treasure of the Colchians.
Lado Meskhishvili Theatre
The Meskhishvili Theatre, founded in 1861, is located in the heart of Kakheti alongside the Kolkheti (Colchis) Fountain. The theatre is home to many a famous Georgian artist and it encapsulates many of the city’s historical and cultural traditions. The box office is open as I walk past with many shows advertised.
It’s location means that it’s a popular meeting place and groups cover the stairs despite the chill of the day. I see couples, friends, locals and tourists meet and wander off while I sit and watch for a time.
Kolkheti Fountain
The Kolkheti (Colchis) Fountain is a monument that stands in the middle of Kutaisi’s central roundabout. The elaborate fountain with golden statues of animals and replicas of ancient figures celebrates the Kingdom of Colchis. This is part of Georgia’s place in history and it’s nice to see it highlighted. It’s particularly beautiful in the evening when the golden statutes gleam in the light reflecting off the fountain’s dancing water.
The White Bridge
A short walk from the centre towards the Rioni River and you’ll discover the White Bridge and its Picasso Boy statue.
The bridge was built in 1850 and had to be rebuilt in 1870 after floods washed away the original wooden structure. The metal that was imported from France and painted and white. White stones also line the Rioni River and the bridge ‘matches’. Today being grey and raining, the only white seems to be white caps on the water.
There is a more romantic story of the bridge, where boys would jump from the height of the bridge into the water to impress their lovers. The bridge was a meeting place for the city’s elite to discuss the days’ events. Presumably, many a budding relationship also began with a walk on (or jump from!) this bridge.
The White Bridge is intrinsically connected to Kutaisi’s arts scene. In fact, the act of jumping from the bridge, referred to as the baptism of a Kutaisian, is immortalised in the statue of Picasso’s Boy who holds two hats in his hands and a smile on his face. The statue itself comes from a minor character in Eldar Shengelaia’s film, An Unusual Exhibition.
Perhaps a photo wearing one of the hats is a more modern tradition.
Wall of Love & Street Art
Despite being small, Kutaisi has a lot of street art. The well known Wall of Love is huddled in behind the Mon Plasir Archway, along Tsminda Nino Street. However, this giant mural of a traditional bread making ritual, is found along Varlamishvili Street. Head towards the Central Markets (Green Bazaaar) from the theatre.
Green Bazaar
A wonderful place to lose yourself in is the Green Bazaar (Central Markets). Wheel of cheese? Fresh baked bread? Bottle of wine? Greens galore? Walnuts, walnuts and more walnuts? You’ll find everything you need from breakfast to dinner here at the Green Bazaar.
In addition to food and produce there is a more general section with everything from clothing, books and household goods to souvenirs, local craft and handmade jewelry.
The Bread-Wine shop sells freshly baked breads stuffed with potato, beans, cheese and other combinations. A hearty breakfast by itself or combine it with some other market staples and head out for a picnic (on a nicer day!).
Kutaisi Holy Annunciation Temple
The Holy Annunciation Temple is a unique and unusual church. Located on the river in Kutaisi’s French Quarter and tucked in behind the Meskhishvili Theatre, it is also referred to as the Cathedral of the Annunciation.
Although the church is Orthodox, its front facade of three arched buttresses, along with the words “Immaculate Conception” inscribed, give away its secret – that this church previously belonged to the Catholic faith.
Originally a wooden structure, King Solomon ordered the building of the church during the 17th century. However, in the 1094’s the church was modified and taken over by the Orthodox faith, while both the history and the ownership are still disputed today.
This area, encompassed primarily by Varlamishvili and Newport Streets, is Kutaisi’s French Quarter. As with the adjacent Jewish Quarter, the architecture belies the history. However, in this context, the reference to ‘French’ historically referred to someone of Catholic denomination. So, despite the French architecture and Kutaisi’s strong French ties (n.b. the Mon Plaisir Arch), the area is also the Catholic Quarter.
Besik Gabashvili Park
Kutaisi is a rather green city and there are lots of parks to relax and enjoy the outdoors with friends. One of the most famous, however, is Besik Gabashvili Park. Located on the top of the hill of the same name, the park is a short climb from behind the Red Bridge. Alternatively, you can catch the cable car from the station located along the river in between the White Bridge and the Red Bridge (near Cafe Argo).
This park was born in the later 18th century, from the Georgian poet and statesman Besarion Gabashvili. Also known as Besiki, he lived near the hill at Vazha-Pshavela Street 1. He is remembered as an educated man of good character, a distinguished gentleman, who spent his years at “Gabashvili Hill”.
When the cultural and recreational park was built here in the 1950’s, it was named after the poet. The park has been renovated and updated a number of times, entrenched as a favorite of locals and tourists alike. Unfortunately today in the rain, it’s hard to see the appeal. After a cursory glance, I walk down, over Red Bridge to the town.
The Wall
Near the Central Markets along Zakharia Paliashvili Street, stands a remarkable wall. Known as the Green Bazaar Relief, this artwork by Georgian artist, Bernard ‘Franz’ Nebieridzeby depicts historical and mythological figures, all whom have contributed to the story and development of the city of Kutaisi. You can ‘read’ the sculptures including the story of Prometheus and Jason & the Argonauts’ quest for the golden fleece. King Aeetes features on the far right and a local Georgian family towards the left. Carved into the bottom of the scene are weapons of the ages.
The Ship House
At the end of Newport Street stand the ‘old house’ or ‘ship house’. From the Newport Street front it’s an attractive and interesting facade. However, as you move around the corner, the true appeal of this structure unfolds. From the corner it looks like a ship’s bow. An extraordinary piece of architecture that’s worth a look for yourself.
Good To Know
For me Kutaisi was a stopover on the way back to Dubai after a week of skiing in Gudauri. Given my two days here were during bleak February weather, I feel that perhaps I didn’t see the city in its best light.
Would I Return?
Maybe. Despite the historic interest and the pretty town, at first I thought there wasn’t enough here to return to as a tourist. However, I have since been reading Emily Lush’s Wander-Lush stories and may reconsider…