The Goa Gajah Temple is one of Bali’s most iconic and ancient archaeological sites. Often referred to as the Elephant Cave, Goa Gajah is located in the village of Bedulu, near Ubud in Bali. We have arrived fresh from lunch at Bebek Joni, a local restaurant specialising in duck dishes only 2 minutes away. It’s unbelievable that this temple, a fascinating blend of historical, spiritual and cultural significance, is so close to the ordinary. Given that Goa Gajah offers such deep insight into Bali’s rich Hindu-Buddhist heritage, it’s an extraordinarily special place indeed.
We arrive at the site from above. Descending a long set of stairs circumventing the cave and arriving next to a pavilion overlooking a large water feature. The pavilion may serve some spiritual or devotional purpose at times. However today it is merely providing shade for the waiting tour guides. We hire a guide this time, in order to gain a deeper understanding of the temple, its setting and purpose.
History
Goa Gajah temple has served both as a sanctuary for meditation and a place for religious ceremony for centuries. The temple dates from the 10th century. Founded during the reign of Sri Wijaya, Queen of Bali, its origins may trace even further back to earlier Hindu-Buddhist influences in the region. Perhaps this explains the attribution of the temple in folklore to the fingernail of legendary giant Kebo Iwa .
Regardless of its beginnings, the temple’s historical significance is rooted in its role as a spiritual center. Used for meditation and as a sacred place of retreat, both Shiva priests and Buddhist monks come here to pray. This dual occupancy is also reflective of Bali’s long-standing tradition of religious diversity and fusion.
It is undocumented how long the site was ‘lost’ for but in 1923 it was ‘rediscovered’ by Dutch archaeologists. Since then, it has become a focal point of interest for historians, archaeologists, spiritual seekers and tourists alike.
The Cave and Its Symbolism
The most striking feature of Goa Gajah Temple is the cave entrance. Carved from grey stone and in the shape of a demonic face, the figure loosely resembles an elephant. The terrifying edifice serves as a guardian, warding off evil spirits and protecting the temple. The intricate carving, with its bulging eyes, open mouth and a wide nose, reflects a blend of Hindu and Buddhist artistic influences. The entrance is intended to be a powerful symbol of the temple’s purpose. It represents the passage into a sacred space. It is where visitors must leave the mundane world behind and enter a realm of spiritual reflection.
Inside the cave, we find stone carvings of various gods and other figures. Admittedly it is less impressive than the facade. It is roughly hewn with carved platforms laden with simple offerings. The offerings themselves contain all the meaning, each being symbolic. Money, flowers and food are included although there are a few things that I can’t identify. There is one depiction of Lord Ganesha in the cave. This Hindu god is the god of wisdom, success and remover of obstacles.
The cave is simplistic and, with its serene atmosphere and ancient carvings, was used historically by ascetics and monks for meditation and reflection.
The Temple Complex
Beyond the cave itself, the Goa Gajah Temple complex is composed of several other features, each contributing to its sacredness. A series of well-maintained water fountains lies within the temple. The large water feature that dominated our view on arrival is a bathing area or pond. This water temple is believed to have once been used for purification rituals.
The complex also includes courtyards, statues and sacred structures reflecting the Hindu-Balinese tradition of reverence for nature and the divine.
The Setting
The temple is set amidst lush tropical greenery. The terraced rice fields and dense jungle enhance the spiritual ambiance. The location itself, tucked away in a serene valley, adds to the sense of tranquility. Down a jungle path and then up the steep other side we discover a collapsed temple. It’s hard to make out, the remaining rocks of the previous temple merging with the rocks of the stream. Water indiscriminately dances over all. Most of the temple is recovered, however, and is now reconstructed on the next rocky ledge along.
The cool, shaded environment of the temple provides an ideal setting for contemplation, offering a peaceful retreat and a delightful visit, away from the bustling life of modern Bali.
Goa Gajah Temple holds both cultural and spiritual importance for the Balinese people. It is not only an archaeological wonder but also a site for ongoing religious ceremonies, particularly during significant Hindu festivals. The temple is part of Bali’s broader spiritual landscape. It is here that the island’s indigenous animist beliefs, Hindu traditions and Buddhist influences have merged over time.
The temple stands as a reminder of the historical and cultural crossroads that have shaped Bali’s identity. While the site acts out its role as a tourist attraction, it continues to serve as an active site for worship and meditation, preserving its legacy as a sacred space.
Good To Know
Goa Gajah Temple offers more than just a glimpse into Bali’s ancient past. A visit here provides a living connection to the island’s spiritual traditions. The architecture, sacred carvings and serene surroundings are hauntingly beautiful. The temple itself is likely one of Bali’s most captivating landmarks.
Would I Return?
No.
