There is a whole lot more than just a few highlights to discover in Munich. After arriving by train I briefly refresh and plunge myself into the Alt Stadt. Starting with a walking tour, I explore the cobbled streets including sights such as St. Michael’s, Marienplatz, the New Town Hall, Frauenkirche, Felhernhalle, Residenz Munchen, Hofbrauhas, St. Peter’s and St. Peter’s Tower, Munich’s glockenspiel, Biergarten Viktualienmarkt and the Oktoberfest Museum. If you have ever been to Munich, some of these may roll off the tongue. If not, read further to discover Munich along with me!
Town Squares
Entering the Alt Stadt from the train station (Hauptbahnhof), Karlsplatz is the first taste of what’s to come. This is a charming platz (square) with classical style buildings and fountains. The atmosphere on this summer’s day is convivial with people out enjoying the sunshine and children squealing with delight in the dancing water spouts. Continue on to the old town proper by entering through Karlstor, the arched city gate dating back to the 14th century. Note the crenelled walls and gargoyle-esqe figures watching you.
Following the pedestrianised Neuhauser Strasse, plunge into the heart of Munich when you come to Marienplatz. This has been the centre of the city for almost a millennium and today it serves as a place to meet, dine and explore. A centre of culture and tourism, Marienplatz is a hub of activity. Tourists and locals alike meet and mingle, enjoying the buzz of the city. The spring flower boxes bursting with life and colour over the New Town Hall and Mariensaule add to the feeling of vibrancy.
New Town Hall
The New Town Hall (Neues Rathaus) dates to the 19th century and was built to replace an outdated and outgrown old Town Hall (Altes Rathaus). While the old Town Hall was destroyed during WWII bombings, the Neues Rathaus was spared, due to its function as a landmark, along with Frauenkirche. Apart from these two monuments, around 80% of the surrounding city was completely destroyed during WWII. The city has since been restored, for the most part true to the original layout and purpose, such that the appearance is that of a medieval hub once more.
Frauenkirche
Munich’s Frauenkirche is the city’s famous cathedral of late Romanesque design was first constructed here in the 12th century with the current Romanesque building dating from the 15th century. The interior, like many German churches, is less ornate than many of its Italian and French counterparts. Yet it is the space under the soaring vault ceiling that threatens to take my breath away. At 109m long, 40m wide and a soaring 37m high, the space is awe-inspiring. Even if you’re not religious, there is a special hush. Perhaps it in deference to the people that built this incredible church so long ago or to the legend that the devil left a footprint in the entrance and then disappeared.
The two towers soar even higher, measuring just over 98m each while the city passed a law in 2004 to ensure that no buildings within the city limits will be allowed to be taller than Frauenkirche’s towers.
Residenz Munchen
The Munich Residenz is the city’s restored palace complex, the former residence of the Wittelsbach family. The sprawling complex consists of numerous interconnected buildings enclosing 10 courtyards and containing 130 rooms, a theatre, concert hall, church and royal stables.
The first buildings date to the 14th century with additions and reconstructions attributed to various monarchs throughout the centuries. The palace was severely damaged during the bombings of WWII and wide rebuilding took place during the 1980’s. The Hall of Antiquities (built 1568 – 1571), Ancestral Gallery (built a century later) and the Charlotte Rooms (part of the Royal Apartments (late 18th – early 19th century) represent the Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical fashions of their eras.
The Hofgarten, or Court Garden, is a large French style park attached to the northern facade of the palace. The rooms, courtyards and park are open to the public and display artefacts and exhibits in addition to the rooms that are richly decorated and bursting with history.
Hofbrauhaus
More than just a pub and beer garden, Hofbrauhaus is THE beer garden. Its very existence comes about from the refined tastes of William V, Duke of Bavaria from 1579 – 1597. Part of the Wittelsbach lineage, he found Munich’s beer so bad that he imported beer from Saxony. Over the years he realised the economic opportunity and tasked his royal court with creating Munich’s own beer. The local brewery was eventually founded in 1589 which served the court as well as the town and continues so to this day.
Glockenspiel
Munich’s famous glockenspiel, the large mechanical clock that dances and chimes daily from the Neues Rathaus located in Marienplatz, has life size characters that re-enact scenes from Munich’s history. The clock was added to the town hall construction in 1908 and chimes every day at 11am and 12pm with an additional performance at 5pm during summer.
The first story told by the glockenspiel, with its 43 bells and 32 life sized figures, is that of Duke Wilhelm V (also of Hofbrauhaus fame) and his marriage to Renata of Lorraine.
The large, elaborate ceremony and celebrations lasted 18 days and included feasts with music, dancing, jousting and other competitions. A joust is part of the glockenspiel tale where the Bavarian prince wins every time.
The second glockenspiel tale is that of Schafflertanz, the coopers’ dance.
St. Michael’s
Halfway along Neuhauser Strasse between Karlsplatz and Marienplatz is St. Michael’s. A Jesuit church in Renaissance style this church is huge in both stature and influence. Also built by WIlliam V between 1583-97 the church had a rocky start as 87 houses were pulled down (under protest) on the Duke of Bavaria’s orders to make way for the structure. The barrel vaulted ceiling gives the vault a free span of more than 20m, second in size only to St. Peter’s Basilica.
William V was eventually laid to rest in the crypt along with other Bavarian monarchs, many of whom were his Wittelsbach descendants.
Feldherrnhalle
The Field Marshal’s Hall, or the Feldherrnhalle is a monumental loggia located on Munich’s Odeonsplatz. The loggia, a covered gallery open to the elements, boasts a statue that commemorates the Franco-Prussian war. The loggia itself was commissioned by King Ludwig I of Bavaria (another from the house of Wittelsbach) in 1841 in order to honour the tradition of the Bavarian Army.
Odeonsplatz, the large square in front of the loggia, is named for the Odeon concert hall that used to flank the square. It extends to the forecourt of the Residenz München and to the Theatine Church.
St. Peter’s and St. Peter’s Tower
St. Peter’s is the oldest parish church in Munich. Although the oldest records of a basilica on this site date to before 1180, the church suffered severe damage during WWII. Various reconstructions have been undertaken and, thankfully much of the artworks had been relocated during the bombings and were able to be restored.
By 2000, the reconstruction of the nave’s ceiling fresco was complete. However, the fresco in the spherical choir dome by Nikolaus Gottfried Stuber (1730), which was previously reconstructed in 1985 by Karl Manninger is now deteriorating to the extent that chunks of the stucco have fallen from the ceiling into the choir space and further reconstructions are required.
Nevertheless, the church resembles, to the untrained eye, a vision of the past. The stunning baroque high altar by Nikolaus Gottfried Stuber, Johann Georg Greiff as well as the additional chapels means that there are a total of 16 altars in the church. Despite the reconstructions of the church structure, the altars and much of the decoration is original. There is also plenty of history to discover in the pieces that remain and are treasured to this day.
Affectionately referred to as the “Old Peter” (Petersturm), this may refer to the tower as much as the church itself. One of the best spots to view the city, there are 360 degree views stretching all the way to the Alps. The tower houses 8 bells, including an 800th anniversary bell of the city of Munich. It’s a wonderful spot to watch the glockenspiel from if you can time your 306 stair climb just so.
Biergarten Viktualienmarkt
Originally located in Marienplatz, the Viktualienmarket (from victuals, Latin for food) became too small. As such, King Maximilian I (father of Ludwig I), ordered a space in the city to house the food markets.
Much like London’s Borough Markets and Brisbane’s New Farm Markets, the Viktualienmarket became a place not just to buy produce but to enjoy food and, in Bavaria at least, food is nothing without beer.
The fish market expanded and over the course of time many additions were made to the offerings. This included butchers’ and tipe halls, pavilions for bakeries and fruit vendors, stalls for poultry and venison. There are special stands for flowers and a separate fish hall. Like the majority of Munich, the square was severely damaged during WWII and has undergone restorations.
Today it is a vibrant and picturesque spot to stop, enjoy a meal and a refreshing beer. It’s also quite social with shared tables where you can chat to tourists or locals alike. And its proximity to the rest of the old town attractions makes it a particularly attractive spot. There are also free drinking water fountains here to fill up your reusable water bottles.
Oktoberfest Museum
This museum, tucked away above an equally attractive but ordinary looking bar, hides the history of beer and the Oktoberfest. It’s pretty hidden away, unless you know you’re looking for it.
Just as interesting as the exhibitions which are spread over four floors, is the building itself. The museum is housed in an old townhouse which dates to 1327. The internal staircase is around 500 years old.
In the pub downstairs, you can enjoy a meal and a beer flight. The beer flight is particularly enjoyable as I am able to taste and compare the different beers side by side. They’re served as a manageable 100ml each consisting of helles, dunkle, weiss and pils.
Good To Know
Not only is Munich’s Alt Stadt walkable but this is the preferable mode of transport. If you plan to day trip to nearby Nymphenburg Palace, Augsburg or Nuremberg the local train transport systems are efficient. Note, however that the trains are a little bit pricey, advance booking is recommended.
Would I Return?
Yes. Absolutely.
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