Krujë, this most charming of towns, is a bonus afternoon getaway. Having spent the morning at Bunk’Art and with our planned afternoon going off the rails due to inclement weather, I find myself in Krujë. I’m here a day earlier than planned and not a moment too soon!
The historic city, is perched on the mountainside only 20 kilometers north of the capital, Tirana. We can see it from miles away but given the horrible Saturday traffic, it takes nearly 90 minutes to arrive here.
As we approach, the castle becomes more prominent and the city seems to peel away from its sheer rocky backdrop. The city is renowned not only for its vivid landscape but for its rich history centered around its most prominent landmark, Krujë Castle.
Before we make it to the castle, however, there is the Bazaar. An historic road leading up to the castle filled with shops and cafes spruiking their wares. The buildings are all traditional and with the colorful fabrics and local crafts, I get an insight into what the walk might have been like in the middle ages. A riot of patters, products and people.
History
Krujë has been inhabited since ancient times, with traces of human settlements dating back to the 3rd century BC. However, it gained prominence during the 15th century when it became the center of resistance against the Ottoman Empire’s expansion into the Balkans.
During the 14th and 15th centuries, Krujë was ruled by the powerful Albanian noble family known as the Krujezi or Crnojević. Gjergj Kastrioti (George Castriot), better known as Skanderbeg, was born into this noble family in 1405. Skanderbeg went on to become a legendary military commander and national hero of Albania. He successfully organized a resistance movement against the Ottoman Empire, managing to defend Krujë and other parts of Albania from Ottoman control for several decades.
Krujë Castle played a pivotal role in Skanderbeg’s resistance against the Ottoman Empire. The castle, perched high on the hill overlooking the city and valley below offers a strategic vantage point. The castle itself was initially constructed during the 5th or 6th century, but it underwent significant renovations and expansions under Skanderbeg’s rule.
Skanderbeg transformed Krujë Castle into a formidable stronghold, adding defensive walls, towers, and other fortifications. The castle became the center of Skanderbeg’s military operations and served as a refuge for the resistance fighters. His successful resistance earned him a reputation of being a great leader and tactician.
The resistance came to an end in 1478, three years after Skanderbeg’s death, when the Ottomans finally captured Krujë and its castle. The Ottomans went on to maintain control over the region for nearly four centuries, until Albania gained independence in 1912. Today, Skanderbeg is still celebrated, his statue proudly standing in Tirana’s central square today.
Museum
In recent times, the Krujë Castle has been restored and transformed into the National History Museum dedicated to Skanderbeg and the history of the resistance against the Ottomans. The museum, also referred to as the Skanderbeg Museum, showcases artifacts, weapons, and historical displays, providing insights into the life and legacy of Skanderbeg and the events that shaped Krujë s history.
Perhaps the most famous and significant artifact is Skanderbeg’s sword and scabbard, today I learn that the current display is a replica. The original is currently on display in Austria.
The museum is interesting and well laid out. Unfortunately I don’t have enough time to read everything and a lot of the descriptions are not in English. This means that, although I have done some previous research, the historic picture that it is supposed to paint is a bit lost on me. I long for a tour guide at this point.
The castle itself is a fascinating architectural structure, with well-preserved (and reconstructed) walls, towers, and courtyards that showcase the medieval history of the region.
Castle Grounds
In addition to the museum, the castle grounds also contain other attractions such as the Ethnographic Museum, which offers insights into traditional Albanian culture and customs. However, it’s not open today and I take a walk around the castle grounds instead.
Behind the museum building is the ruins of the castle proper, along with an old castle tower. There is also a restaurant and some accommodation on site, cosy, homely looking B&B type lodging. The sort you can imagine sitting around the fire with the hosts exchanging stories on a cold winter night.
Perhaps more interestingly, as I’m not staying overnight, are the other museums and notable structures.
Tekke of Dollma
Firstly there is the Tekke of Dollma. The tekke is a Bektashi temple which was originally built in 1789. Before it’s destruction by the Communists, there were around 360 holy graves on the site. Today it still serves as a religious destination and cultural monument.
Kruje Hammam
The Kruje Hammam, (Hamami i Kalasë së Krujës) this Ottoman style bath house was built during the 15th century and is the oldest in Albania. It consists of four rooms, baths and water takes with three spherical domes shaping the roof. The hammam was restored in 2015 with aid from a Swedish foundation.
Fethiye Mosque
The Fethiye Mosque (Sultan Mehmed Fatih mosque of Krujë) is also of interest. Also Ottoman era, this mosque built before 1481 and located inside the castle walls. It was named after the Turkish Sultan Mehmed II and after being destroyed in 1831 was rebuilt for Albania under the reign of Mahmud II.
The minaret, famed for its beauty, collapsed after a storm in 1917. However, the mosque remained a house of worship until 1937. From the time of WWII the mosque was used as ammunition storage and was further damaged during the succeeding Communist era. Today only the lower parts of the walls and the previously rebuilt minaret remain.
Good To Know
Today, Kruje and its castle are popular tourist destinations. Attracting both domestic and international visitors, people come to admire the historical significance of the castle, explore the city’s charming old town Bazaar, and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
I travelled here with Endrit from Albania Private Guide.
Would I Return?
Yes. Though I’d seek a tour guide with an appropriate knowledge of history and the area.
