Osumi River Rafting

The Osumi River is calling me. It flows past us in Berat and despite its milky, cold appearance, I know that the canyons up river await us for an exciting rafting adventure.

Getting There

We depart Berat just after 9am and it doesn’t take long to get out of the little town. Soon we are climbing up into the hills and mountains, along the rivers and valleys that surround the Osumi River on its way through the Albanian countryside.

After a quick pharmacy stop in Poliçan for Jason, who has developed a sudden but bad bout of hayfever, and a quick coffee stop (somewhere near Çorovoda) we arrive at the rafting headquarters only just behind the tour group that has come along the same route by bus.

Getting It Together

We arrange the administrative matters (payment and waivers) before being allocated wetsuits, life jackets and helmets. It takes a while to get the group suited up and kitted out. We have brought our own ‘river shoes’ (a set of old sneakers that we are willing to get wet) but there are a few spare pairs here. A better option than travelling with wet shoes if you can get past the fact that they are already wet, cold and sandy.

We all waddle (yes, waddle) out towards the waiting van and manage a family shot before our safety briefing. Then we are all loaded up, in with the rest of the group. Three rafts have been pumped up and flung onto the trailer and although nothing is explained, there are a handful of people who look like they know what they’re doing.

After a short ride in the van we arrive at the launch site. We are the first raft off with our guide and, rather suddenly, off on the river. Floating quickly downstream we paddle out of the current before we get too far and await the launch of the other two rafts in a calm spot.

River Ahead

Eventually, the three rafts are all headed downriver to alternate cries of ‘go’, ‘back’ and ‘stop’ from our guides. The paddle commands are easy enough to follow, however, there are only five of us in our raft. It’s pretty clear the boys aren’t listening too closely and I can tell that our guide is doing more than a fair share of the work.

It gives me pause to look up and around me. We are indeed in a canyon. The rock walls are shere and almost vertical. They loom above us in layers of reddish hues. Layer upon layer of horizontal rock formations making up the feature of the towering walls above us. They are broken up by moss, shrubs, trees and the occasional waterfall.

Waterfalls and Raki

After about 20 minutes, we pull over and hop out of the rafts. We are near a large waterfall (Waterfall of Love) and have the chance to take some photos. Although we were advised to leave our cameras behind, the guides pull out some phones. I’m now wishing that I hadn’t followed the rules quite so closely as the waterfall is spectacular and so is the river upstream where we have just come from.

Our guides also pull out a bag containing raki for the group, along with tea and coffee for those who prefer (or, like our boys, are too young to partake). I was a bit worried about how cold it might be on the river and in the water. However, the tops and wetsuits that we have been given seem to be doing the trick quite nicely. Our feet are wet, but not yet freezing cold, and the raki takes off any residual edge (yes, it’s that strong!).

Back in the rafts again we have a nice ride and some good rapids before stopping again. This time there is a sharp rock on a corner coming around one of the larger rapids. It has damaged a raft recently and two of our Osumi River Rafting guides maneuver the third guide in a raft as our group watches on. He climbs onto the troublesome outcrop (with some difficulty) and chips away at it with a smaller stone until the sharp edge is dulled. It’s now unlikely to cause any further danger or damage. I cross my fingers at this as we hop back into the rafts to navigate these exact rapids.

Impasse

Danger behind us and we’re on our way again, admiring the canyons and the river’s path between them. There are several more rapids and some waterfalls before we come to what seems like an impossible pass (impasse!). Before we know it we are wedged in between the first and last raft. We are not moving and it seems that we have no prospect of being able to move forward. The current prevents us from going back.

The guide in the first raft climbs out and does some goat like maneuvers up the side of the cliff. It becomes apparent that this is part of the theatrics as he pulls out his phone to take photos and videos of our ‘wedgie’. A few more goat maneuvers and he launches himself off the side of the cliff, landing like a gymnast (not at all goatlike!) in the back of the raft. Clearly he has performed this previously!

A few more maneuvers, this time involving alternate pushing and pulling of the raft through the rocks, sees us out on the other side of our little traffic jam and back on the river rapids.

Land Ahoy

All too soon the canyons give way to the hills, farms and fields. Flocks of (actual) goats appear along the slopes above us. While the river doesn’t stop to let us out, our raft is once again guided out of the rapids. I look towards the nearby rocky beach where the other groups are already disembarked. Unfortunately, just as we come around the bend we get wedged on a high rocky outcrop.

We are just a little too far to clamber up to the dry beach. Jason is worst off at the deep end of the raft. He has to jump in, the water waist height, and feel his way along the rocky riverbed to shore. Meanwhile the boys and I manage to avoid the worst of the cold water, landing ankle deep. There is a bit of a splash and the cold water hits me, thank goodness no one fell in! I am absolutely high on the thrill of the experience of our Osumi River Rafting. I am also exceedingly grateful that we are now safe and (mostly) dry!

The rafts are hefted back on the the waiting trailer. We resume our seats in the van for the short drive back to base to dry off and change. Once dry and warm, photos and videos are shared (although I desperately wish I had some of my own). Next thoughts are definitely on something warming for lunch!

Good To Know

Albania Rafting Group run rafting from February to June. Transfers are also available from Berat, Durres and Tirana (return).

We experienced the Osumi River Rafting with Albania Rafting Group and Endrit from Albania Private Guide.

Would I Return?

Yes. In the height of summer.