Zuma

Zuma, one of the most famous brunches in Dubai. Founded by chef Rainer Becker in Rome in 2002, the chain now has its headquarters in London with locations around the world. ‘Chain’ certainly conjures the wrong image of this upmarket brand which has clearly earned its fine dining reputation. Zuma is a destination in and of itself, it’s a great place to celebrate with loved ones or indeed, just because.

After six years in the city, I have finally made it here for the occasion of my friend, Charlotte’s birthday. I step out of the lift and am greeted with a smile, swept down the large statement staircase and through the main floor of the restaurant. It is already buzzing with atmosphere, music and an ever glamorous Dubai brunch crowd.

Of the select group of eight gathered for the occasion, I’m the last to arrive. As I am seated next to Diane, Charlotte’s mum, she comments “you’re the one with the boys”. Yes, yes I am. Hence, the lateness. Due to this, the prosecco has already been poured and the miso soup with tofu, wakame and spring onion has already been served. I settle myself in and no time is wasted as our shared entrees promptly arrive.

Zuma is inspired by informal izakaya-style Japanese dining in which dishes are brought to the table continuously throughout the meal. This means that the small bites soon cumulate into a feast.

Entree

Our entree selection begins with fresh oysters, edamame and vegetable gyoza with spicy wafu.

The oysters are delectable and I’m grateful to those that are prepared to give them a miss as I help myself to another. The sea bass ceviche and seared salmon are amongst the next dishes to arrive, the delicate sea bass is served with yuzu, truffle oil and salmon roe that pops delightfully on my tongue. It’s all delicious but the beef tataki with truffle ponzu and the scallops umeboshi deserve special mention. Both are melt-in-the-mouth tender with the perfect balance of flavour whilst letting the natural ingredients shine. In fact, this is a theme that runs throughout the meal.

The citrusy ponzu balances the truffle and the shallots add just enough crunch to offset the tenderness of the beef. Meanwhile the umeboshi doesn’t lend the scallops as much saltiness as I’m expecting and the charring adds a nice flavour as well as an appealing color. The shiso and mentaiko are visually pleasing but I feel the flavour is a bit lost here as the scallops really are the hero of the dish. I sample another, just to be sure…

The rest of the dishes continue to appear: chicken tempura with spicy lemon dressing, a selection of sashimi, nigiri and maki and other cold starters, skewers and salads. The gomae (spinach salad) is also particularly good and a nice contrast to the meaty offerings.

The conversation flows in groups of two or three. Although the restaurant is quite noisy and the background music just a notch too loud, it’s atmospheric rather than annoying, and lends itself to an intimacy in conversation. I chat with Diane about their visit to Dubai and what they have on their agenda. Louise & I catch up on life, work and other happenings as well as trading pet stories.

Mains

After such an inviting selection of starters it’s difficult to narrow my choice down to just one main. With the alternatives including: Chilean sea bass with green chilli and ginger dressing; miso marinated black cod wrapped in hoba leaf; jumbo tiger prawn with yuzu pepper; barley miso corn fed baby chicken oven roasted on cedar wood; lobster with shiso ponzu butter; spicy beef tenderloin w sesame, red chilli and sweet soy; grilled Australian wagyu ribeye with truffle sauce; and vegetarian options of stir fried ramen or spicy fried tofu, it was never going to be an easy choice. Under pressure to order and after much deliberation, the lobster wins out.

The lobster is grilled to perfection with the shiso ponzu butter nicely complementing the succulent tail. Served with kinoko kamameshi, a rice dish which features a blend of Japanese mushrooms, this is a superb pairing. Another accompaniment, grilled sweet corn cobs, could be enjoyed all on their own, here they are eclipsed by the range of flavours already on offer.

A further hit for the table is the Australian wagyu ribeye (my runner up choice). I don’t hesitate to try a piece on offer and it’s every bit as good as expected.

Charlotte seems to be enjoying her special day and I can tell that she appreciates having Rich and her parents on hand to assist with the celebrations. Living so far away, it’s even more significant to be able to get family together with friends.

The army of waiters whip away the plates and the conversation flows as freely as the prosecco. At this point in time my Sunday self might have thanked me was I to try one of the mocktails, however, I’ll put it down to being in a bubbly mood that I carried on regardless.

Dessert

After the shortest of pauses, the waiters return. A dessert sharing platter is placed before Charlotte as she is regaled with a round of “happy birthday”. After blowing out her candle, a few more selections appear and make our selections. By now I’m wholly resigned to not being able to taste everything so I choose carefully.

A scoop of guava gelato cleanses the palate but eclipsed by the strawberry. Samples of cake, creamy caramel and chocolate tart delight as we work our way through the selection. Another platter appears and I find I have room for just a couple more taste tests. One incredible chocolate truffle and decide to stop on the highest of dessert highs.

By the time we are ready to move on, the restaurant is almost empty. Given that Zuma Dubai is located in the middle of the financial district, it doesn’t have a dreamy sea view or big hotel brand behind it to attract such crowds. Nevertheless, the exemplary menu and expert service quite obviously speaks for itself as the wait staff are busy readying tables for the evening sitting. The eager ushering to the door makes sense.

Afterparty

Not quite content to call it a day, we continue to enjoy the present company and lasting effects of the prosecco well into the evening. The location of our friend’s apartment on The Palm couldn’t be a more glorious spot to let the brunch settle. As the lights sparkle on over the view as the sun sinks in the west, this has truly been an afternoon to remember.

Post Script

On my way into work on Monday morning, I have a little skip in my step knowing that the weekend has been both memorable and enjoyable.

I am now more or less recovered from a restless Saturday night. Sunday morning brings two demanding wake up calls, the first at 5am from a cranky cat, followed shortly after, at 5:30am to see Jasper off to his rugby tournament on time (kudos to his friend’s dad for taking him, not sure I would have made it the distance).

My feel are still sore from the after party dancing but that is another story…

Good To Know

Of the two brunch options that include alcohol, neither offer an option of spirits or cocktails. Limited to prosecco (as well as selected wine and beer), it was no wonder I had a bit of a headache the next day. The more expensive option including champagne and saki.

After we had settled our bill, the waitstaff brought an additional invoice to the table citing a further amount to pay above the quoted price for the brunch menu. This created some confusion and consternation at the table. On closer inspection, the menu and website quote that the price is “inclusive of 5% vat and subject to 7% authority fee”. This is unusual for Dubai and even more unusual to have the fee charged separately after the main bill has been settled. It did put a dampener on the otherwise exceptional experience.

Zuma Dubai is located in Gate Village 6, DIFC. The restaurant is open every day for lunch and dinner (check zumarestaurant.com for timings).

Would I Return?

Yes, being wary of the 7% authority fee.