Well after the city skyline has melted into desert sands, we encounter the Dubai Camel Racing Club which showcases the Emirati tradition of camel racing.
Like horse racing, this sport is the passion of sheikhs (kings), locals and the community alike and has been integral to the region’s traditions for centuries. Despite the desert location, the modern setting at the Al Marmoom Camel Race Track allows you to be part of the excitement from the comfort of a contemporary grandstand. However, if you want to feel the real heart-pumping exhilaration of the race and get up close and personal with these fascinating creatures, then be prepared to get some sand between your toes, so to speak.
Background
Famously known as the ’ships of the desert’ camels are said to be God’s gift to the Bedouin. They provided transportation, food and even clothing to the Bedouin people and without them, at times life in the desert may not have even been possible. In addition to their practical uses, camel racing can be traced back to the 7th Century. Usually the races accompanied other celebrations such as weddings or birthdays.
Today, although not quite as critical to existence, camels are serious business. Despite gambling being strictly prohibited in the UAE everyone here, bar a handful of spectators, seems to have a stake in the game. Big prizes in the season include luxury cars, cash (up to AED80m!) and trophies which fuel this high stakes industry. Plus, the value of winning camels, like horses, increases with each triumph on the track. The club hosts different regional and international camel racing events throughout each season to spread information and support for sport.
Race Day
On arrival, we take time to wander through the holding area where the camels are awaiting their race. They seem very calm, each racing camel paired up with a companion camel and likely several handlers. The camels are only mildly curious of our wanderings, the handlers give ready smiles and, if they are not particularly busy, will happily stop for a chat and a photograph.
From the grandstand a roar goes up from the crowd as a race finishes. Before we experience the end, however, we need to see the beginning.
Today’s race is on a medium 8,000 meter track with races generally being between 4,000m and 14,000m.
The camels are herded into line with a light touch, their reins looped onto the starting gate which rises at the signal and releases the camels. As we watch the field gallop off, one camel goes astray and, unsure of where to head, it turns back. There is a sudden collective whoop from the handlers that are chatting on the start line and a dozen or so men run out and chase the rogue camel until it gets back on track. Then everyone relaxes, clearly the camel was a novice at this. No one else is and the momentary misdirection of the rogue camel is taken in their stride.
Once the camels are off and running the handlers at the starting gates stroll over towards the finish line. In the meantime, robot jockeys have replaced human jockeys. These allow the camels to run at their full potential. The remotely controlled jockeys also allow the camel trainers to manage their animals from a distance. Along with a line up of camels for each race, there is an equivalent line up of trainers in 4 x 4s that follow the race closely around the track.
Grandstand
We watch the beginning of a second race from the raised vantage point that sits over the track. From here we are able to head over to the finish line for a front row seat of the races’ conclusion. The excitement is rather contagious as the first camels gallop into the finish and I wish I had brought binoculars with me for a closer look.
In the grandstand we are offered a snack and a drink. Cookies, muffins, water and fresh juice plus an array of camel milk to sample (plain, saffron, cardamom, chocolate). We sit back in the shade and enjoy the refreshments.
Soon after a presentation of prizes and trophies takes place with much cheering and congratulations to the winners.
Once the formalities are over the crowd in the grandstand dwindles. The last races draw to a conclusion for the day.
As we retrace our steps back to the car through the finishing pen we encounter some of the winners. They are distinguished by the turmeric that has been rubbed over their faces and neck. The reason for this isn’t entirely clear although turmeric is often used medically as a natural anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.
Hot but happy we return to the car for the drive back to Dubai. Along the way, as the sand dunes slowly transform back into the city, I reflect on the day and the sport. Racing camels are highly prized and passionately cared for. I now realize that the camels roaming the dunes that can sometimes be glimpsed from the highway are not wild. All camels in the UAE are owned and cared for by people who follow the traditions of the culture, albeit with a view to a share in some of those prizes.
Good To Know
The Al Marmoom Camel Racing Track and Dubai Camel Racing Club are located on the Al Ain – Dubai Road (E66). It is about 40km south east of Dubai. There is also a camel hospital, camel laboratory, camel markets and a cultural heritage village nearby.
Tour operators run private and group tours here although you don’t need to be on a tour to attend. Visitors can walk through the complex freely. There is a spectator and family seating area in the grandstand from which you can view the races. Tickets are not required, however, check the racing calendar before making the trip. Allow a few hours to ensure enough time to make the most of the experience.
Would I Return?
Yes. This is a Dubai must-see.