Knossos Palace, home of King Minos, birthplace of the Minotaur, entrance to the Labyrinth. This site feels enchanted from the first step.
History
Entering from the West Gate late on a hot summer’s afternoon, I encounter the 22,000 sq.m historical site with the ruins of upper terrace ceremonial halls and lower terrace storerooms evident below.
This is Knossos Palace, the largest, most complex and perhaps the site that piques the imagination the most out of all of Greece’s famed archaeological sites. The political and ceremonial centre of the Minoan Civilization during the Bronze Age, there has been human settlement here since 7000 BC with iterations of the palace evident from from 1900 BC until its final destruction and eventual abandonment somewhere around 1375 BC.
The history of the palace itself is divided into the First and Second Palace periods.
The First Palace Period
The First Palace period began with its creation around 1900 BC. The architectural findings from this period suggest that the site was huge and the walls were thick. Typical of defensive structures. However, the pottery indicates that the people were not unified under a central culture. This essentially means that the walls could have surrounded some sort of township rather than an actual palace. Nothing further is known about the First Palace times. This is in large part due to the Cretan Hieroglyphs, the writing of the period, remaining undeciphered. As such, the secrets of its history remain hidden.
The Second Palace Period
After the First Palace was destroyed circa 1700 BC, most likely by an earthquake or foreign invasion, the Second Palace period began. At this time the palace was rebuilt though the construction differs. Archeologists indicate that more effort went into the grand design and there was less of a focus on defenses. The writing and pottery of this time suggests a unity of culture. This has led historians to conclude that Crete had been united under common rule.
The eruption of the volcano on Thera (Santorini) (c.1600 – 1500 BC) was believed accountable for the destruction of the city and demise of the palace. The city of Knossos itself, along with the rest of the island, was then completely destroyed c.1450 BC by a combination of earthquake and the invasion of the Mycenaeans. It appears that only the palace was spared with recent scholars suggesting that the Mycenaens rebuilt the damaged palace and continued to inhabit it until a fire destroyed the site c.1375 BC.
Discovery
This is both ancient and recent history. For centuries Knossos was the stuff of legend believed only to exist in myth. In 1900 AD, almost four millennia ago, the site was (re)discovered and excavations begun by Sir Arthur Evans.
The excavations and exploration of the site have now provided historians with a wealth of knowledge and insight into the Minoan Civilization with pottery, tools, architecture and art discovered here.
This was not just a palace. Knossos is so much more than the residence of the monarch. It represents the epicentre of the civic, religious, ceremonial and economic centre of an entire civilization. Plus, it is the stuff legends are made of!
Legend
It is widely believed that the Minoan Palace of Knossos is the same palace that Greek mythology refers to in the Minotaur story.
According to legend, Theseus, an Athenian prince with a history of heroism was forced to fight the terrifying Minotaur here in Daedalus’ Labyrinth. Theseus was the founding King of Athens. There was a bit of trouble at a family event where Theseus escaped an assassination attempt. His father, Ageaus, recognised him and sent him away to protect him, bidding him return flying a white flag so his father would know he was still alive.
Theseus sailed to Crete where he was forced to fight the terrible Minotaur, a creature that was half man, half bull. The Minotaur was the son of King Minos, the ruler of Crete. King Minos built a maze, the Labyrinth, to house the Minotaur and made an annual sacrifice – seven children – to keep the Minotaur and the gods happy.
The king’s daughter, Ariadne, fell in love with Theseus. He agreed to enter the Labyrinth to fight the Minotaur, and Ariadne gave him a ball of thread which he unwound so that he could find his way back by following it.
Once Theseus had killed the Minotaur, he and Ariadne fled from Crete, escaping her angry father. On return to Athens, Theseus forgot to raise the white flag on his ship to indicate his safe return and Aegeus, his father, who was watching the ship return, flung himself off the cliffs in despair thinking his son dead.
Archaeology
The Palace site is large and so the archaeology is vast, both in physical and historical terms. The sections cover areas as well as buildings and while I would like more information, there are also information boards placed about that explain some of what we can see.
The propylaeum, the structure that forms the entrance to the temple on the south of the site is impressive if not completely authentic.
“The ‘South Propylaeum’, as we see it today, is a result of the restoration of Evans who put u a copy of the ‘Cup-Bearer’ fresco here. The wall painting depicted a man holding a libation vase (rhyton). Its theme is connected with the ‘Procession Fresco’ which, according to Evans, reached here, the ‘South Propylaeum’. The pithol (large storage jars) on the east side of the Propylaeum belong to the Postpalation Period (1450 – 1100 B.C.), and indicate that the area was later used for storage.”
Palace of Knossos
There is so much to take in. Even as I step back from the details and gaze at the broader picture and the views, it’s difficult not to be overwhelmed by what is here as well as what isn’t.
The Shrine of the Double Axes was named so as in the ruins on a bench at the back of a room, a stone double axe was found. Along side it were votive clay idols, similar to those found in other houses of the same period. This household shrine is thought to date from somewhere between 1375 – 1200 BC.
Palace
The throne room of Knossos was located on the north side of the sacred apartments. The entrance to it was from the main courtyard with a quadruple multi-door and four steps.
On one far side of this room stood a stone throne, built to mimic wood. One mural depicts a pair of griffins framing the throne. On the opposite side was a tank of purifications, indicating the sacred character of the space.
The throne room is a unique find with a purely Minoan character, although there are similarities with the Mycenaean mansion, as is known from the palace of Pylos.
The throne was considered the seat of King Minos, and the throne room as the hearing room of the citizens. Newer interpretations, however, that take into account the theocratic character of the leadership in Minoan Crete, tend to characterize the throne as hieratic and not as the throne of the Minoan leader.
It is believed that it was mainly used as a concentrator of King Minos and the priesthood. There, they used to decide on matters of law.
The Grounds
Not truly grounds as it’s hard to make out where the palace ends and the rest begins. Some would have been underground, built into the side of the hill. Other areas look like they should be part of the structure but, like the courtyard, were outdoor spaces.
Everywhere I turn is a new story, a new explanation. It really is layers upon layers of civilization laid bare. Even the architecture of the drainage system has its own story that is just as incredible, just as fascinating as the games which were played in the royal household.
“The Royal Gaming Board was found here, a kind of bard game made of ivory, rock crystal, Egyptian blue, silver and gold, now in Heraklion Museum. To the right of the corridor are the ‘Royal Pottery Stores’, where Kamares pottery of the Old Palace period (1900 – 1700 B.C.) was uncovered, and to the left, storage and workshop areas.”
Knossos Palace
Some theories and uses are harder to visualize than others. Some areas really do just look like ruins and even the explanations can’t paint a complete picture. There is a tree growing in the middle of where the royal pottery stores were supposed to be.
Even the “Lustral Basin” is hard to understand, despite it partial reconstruction by Evans. The name suggests something along the lines of a bathhouse, however there is no evidence of drainage here. Some have suggested the proximity to the north entrance meant it as a place of purification prior to entering the sacred palace. Peering down the steps into the gloom below gives me no further enlightenment.
“The room before you resembles a cistern, its floor is lower than the surrounding area and is reached by steps. The “Lustral Basin” was surrounded by columns and was lined with slabs of gypsum giving it a luxurious appearance. In its present form, the area has been completely reconstructed by Evans.
Areas with a similar arrangement have been found in other parts of the Palace of Knossos, as well as at other palaces and in important Minoan buildings of the period (1700 – 1450 B.C.). It is not known how these places were used. However, from their construction it seems that they would not have been filled with water, nor wa there any drainage. Evans thought that they were used in purification ceremonies and therefore called these places “Lustral Basins”. Evans also believed that the Palace was a sacred place,. That is why, in his opinion, the “Lustral Basin” in question wa used to purify visitors going into the Palace via the neighbouring North Entrance.”
Knossos Palace
Finally I come out onto the “Theatre”. This vast, stone paved area, appears to be a setting where visitors could have been received or ceremonies with viewers were performed. This area also leads to the “Royal Road” which connected Knossos Palace with the Minoan town.
It is from here that I make my way back to the exit and out into reality once more.
Good To Know
Guides are available at the entrance to Knossos Palace and will conduct private tours or you can join a group. The price depends on the number of people in the group, however, a group tour will only depart when enough people have joined. So be prepared to wait.
I didn’t have time to wait for a group to form and the cost for a private tour was rather hefty. I made do with the information available around the site. This did give me a chance to linger and read what I wanted. I even doubled back a few times to check on things that were mentioned later that I had previously missed.
Allow at least a couple of hours to explore the site itself. Ideally, a half day would be taken in order to properly take in the site. It would have been nice to have time for a refreshment along the way. Plus, make allowance for travel time to and from the centre of Heraklion.
Would I Return?
Yes. Absolutely. In a heartbeat.