Rethymno’s Fortezza tops Paleokastro (‘old castle’), the steep hill that presides over the city and the site of Rethymno’s ancient acropolis. The fortress and the city are immersed in Venetian and Ottoman history which is still evident today despite German occupation during WWII. The Fortezza in its current layout dates to the 16th Century when it was built to more effectively protect the city’s population. This came after Uluc Ali, an Ottoman pirate, attacked and destroyed Rethymno in 1571.
Originally, the fortress was designed by the Venetian authorities to permanently house the entire town. However, on completion, it wasn’t big enough and the inhabitants of the town didn’t want to move anyway, so eventually only the Venetian administration and Guard settled here.
The Eastern Gate towers over us as we enter the Fortress. Positioned to be both near to the town and away from the frontline of any conflict, it is rather imposing. Behind the huge door, a circa 10m thick tunnel leads into the main fortress complex. The dome covered spaces were used as Guard’s apartments and as I look up I can imagine I wouldn’t have much chance if someone was leaning out with a bow and arrow. Making my way through the dark tunnel of the wall, the word ’impenetrable’ pops into my mind.
History
Once on the other side of the tunnel we are within the fortress proper. A stone path leads to the nearby Artillery Warehouse which was used to house cannons and other assorted weaponry. More high walls surround us but with the blue sky and trees beyond, it feels more like an enclosed private garden than something born out of violence and aggression.
To keep with the garden theme we start with the wooded St. Paul’s Bastion on the south east which smells of pine forest and has wonderful views down into the cobbled streets and quaint restaurants of the old town. That is, if you are game enough to lean out over the centuries old crumbling walls.
The military planning for the fortress worked and in 1646 when the Ottomans attacked again, the population successfully took refuge in the fortress. Nevertheless, the execution of the plan was flawed as disease and a lack of food and ammunition led those besieged to surrender only 6 weeks after the attack.
We continue to walk clockwise around the walls, checking out the bastions and ledges before we come to explore any of the buildings and ruins on site.
The Buildings
It was during the time of Ottoman rule that the St. Nicholas Cathedral was destroyed and the city’s first mosque was built in the centre of the fortress. The Sultan Ibrahim Khan Mosque is still one of the main buildings remaining on the site today although only the base has been preserved.
The other buildings of note are the Counselor’s residence, various gunpowder warehouses and the Twin Building, a two domed storage space which was built over the ruins of an older structure. Preserved ruins help to map out other residences, churches and warehouse complexes that paint a picture of the fortress. They outline the purpose of the design and what the daily activities of the inhabitants might have been.
We poke our nose into a gunpowder warehouse and I linger over the ruins of the large northern warehouse complex, however, most of the buildings are inaccessible. The Councilor’s Residence and Twin Building are used as exhibition spaces although today they are either closed or we can’t quite find our way into them. A shame as a short respite from the baking late afternoon sun would be welcome.
The Fortress Walls
We continue along the outline of the fortress which is made up of four bastions and three ledges. These form an irregular shaped outer wall, giving the inhabitants better protection. The St. Elias Bastion, on the southern side of the fortress, also contains the Erofyli, an open air theatre which has been restored and provides lovely views over the town. The northern ledges look northward, out over the sea.
The St. Lucas Bastion was built to further enhance the coverage of the fortress on the vulnerable southern side. The ’T’ share is primarily landfill which held cannons and helps to form the bastion square.
Domes along the three ledges: the Holy Spirit; St. Justine’s ; and St. Sozon’s, form towers for lookout duties. These also served to protect the Venetian Guards. Equally they were used for the same purpose during the years of Ottoman rule.
Remarkably the fortress remained in use until the early 20th century with many residential buildings having been located here. These were mostly destroyed after WWII when many residents left the fortress to move within the growing city limits.
During most of the remainder of the 20th Century some of the remaining buildings were used as a prison. Since the 1990’s, the Municipality of Rethymno has undertaken large scale restoration works to preserve the landmark.
We finish our tour back along the shadier eastern side. After our lengthy and not as shaded as expected walk, we are thirsty and hungry. We plunge ourselves into the cobbled streets of the town previously viewed from above. Off to find one of those quaint restaurants for a well deserved evening meal.
Good To Know
It took us around 90 minutes to walk around and explore the fortress grounds and ruins. We did this without stopping in at any exhibitions. There is a small kiosk and souvenir shop next to the entrance at the eastern gate. However, no facilities are available around the grounds so be sure to visit in the morning or after lunch. Pack water and snacks if required and during the summer months, a hat and sunscreen is also recommended.
The Fortezza, Rethymno is open April to November 8am – 8pm. Check updated local information for correct timing.
Would I Return?
Yes.
