We discover Almyriki, Stavros Beach, after a morning exploring monasteries on the Akrotiri Peninsula east of Chania. Hot and hungry we stumble in and are instantly cooled and calmed by this little beachside gem of a restaurant.
The view is stunning. A calm turquoise bay offset by a backdrop of a starkly contrasted rust colored arid mountain. The beach itself is most famous for being the location of the sirtaki dance from the 1964 film Zorba the Greek starring Anthony Quinn. Today there is plenty of swimming, sunbathing and snorkeling. I haven’t seen any dancing yet but this is Greece, you never know.
We promptly order. First beers, followed by zucchini flowers, spinach pies and black ink prawn linguine. The boys select calamari with chunky home cut fries. The restaurant is buzzing and it is peak lunch hour with barely enough tables available to meet the demand.
When our food does arrive it is exquisite. The zucchini flowers small, plump and tender with a herbed yoghurt sauce that compliments perfectly.
The spinach pie is a slightly different version, more of a quesadilla but grilled so that it is smoky which offsets the beautiful lemony tartness of the herbed spinach. More yoghurt swirled on the plate but hardly enough – I scoop it up eagerly and enjoy the mix of flavors.
The boys tuck into their calamari and fries. Unfortunately the calamari is a bit too fresh and while they eat the rings and fresh, hot fries, they are not quite adventurous enough to go for the tentacles. Jason & I sample the pieces left by them – in the near future, we may not be so lucky!
Everything is delicious but the prawn and squid ink pasta is the standout dish of the day. Simple yet totally mouth watering and again, beautifully presented.
We rest for a while. They boys have found a playground after their meal so we have a few moments of peaceful reflection. I observe the tables under the big tree – the adult table of family and close friends, the children on a separate table nearby negotiating over sodas and ice cream. It’s a beautiful celebration of life and as they all raise their glasses for a toast I am slightly envious of their comfortable gathering with loved ones as I sit here, so far from home.
The unmissable backdrop to Almyriki is the windmill that turns slowly against the turquoise sky behind us. The building has been refurbished and fitted out to contain the restaurant’s kitchen and front of house area. There is also a reception desk located under the large outdoor dining area, a smart bar structure off to one side and bathroom tucked away neatly at the back of the windmill. Today is hot and everyone is seeking a shaded table. I can imagine whiling away a bright winter day here over lunch in the sun though. Divine.
The other scene that can’t help but draw my attention is the beach. The water is the same turquoise as the sky. And, same as the sky, the longer you watch it, the more you feel drawn in. I have always had an affinity for water and, indeed the sun. I remember longing for the warmth of the sun as a child. Could never get enough of a swimming pool when I was little and later, on holidays as a teenager, I would sit at the ocean’s side all day if I wasn’t swimming or kicking the waves along the shore. Even now, the sea imbues me with a sense of strength and calm that I cannot quite describe.
Today, feeling refreshed after our more than satisfactory lunch, we head to the beach. The sun light sparkles on her surface I watch my boys play in the shallows and in the depths. It is hard to describe such a breathtaking place and once again I am reminded of home. The similarities to more recent times at Yanchep Lagoon are drawn to mind. The boys were little then. Now I watch them snorkeling, no more buckets and spades.
It is the perfect spot to say a little prayer of thanks and be still for a moment of gratitude. Something that the sea also never fails to make me feel.
Good To Know
Almyriki is located at Stavros Beach about a half hour drive – and yet a world away – from Chania. Although the restaurant is accommodating to walk ins, it is best to have a reservation, particularly if you are a large group or if you visit during the weekend, particular in the summer season.
Would I Return?
Yes. I am dreaming of the squid ink pasta with the backdrop of windmill against blue sky already.
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