Nestled in a tiny vine covered alleyway in the Old Town area of Chania yet tucked away from the tourist throngs of the Venetian harbor front is Koutourouki. In terms of dining, it is cuteness itself!
It is 7pm and is still early by European standards but we have been walking all afternoon and are ready for a meal. Koutourouki is empty when we are seated and although the sun is still strong in the sky, the lane way is shaded and somewhat cooler.
I am trying to encourage the boys to expand their palates and try a few local dishes so I make a selection of plates from the menu to share: some tried and tested favorites, such as calamari, tzatziki, and local sausages; as well as some new flavors – stuffed zucchini flowers and eggplant fingers. We order bread and wine to accompany and our waiter delights the boys with a bottle of his childhood favorite Gazoza (banana flavored soda) to try.
The banana soda is a hit. So is the tender calamari, herby pork sausages, dense bread and garlicky tzatiki. They try the zucchini flowers and homemade spring roll-esque eggplant fingers. I am secretly more relieved than concerned when they are happy with the other dishes as they are seriously good. If they wanted more, I would need to order an additional plate of each.
The zucchini flowers are so tender they are transparent and the rice stuffing is delicately flavored with tomato and herbs. It has just the right consistency (neither wet nor dry, like a good risotto).
The eggplant fingers are thick and have a rich centre of baked eggplant, tenderized to almost a paste like consistency, smoked and spiced such that the flavor and aroma bursts as I bite through the crispy, flaky pastry layer.
Because we have promised the boys gelato on the walk back to our apartment we reluctantly give dessert a miss. The temptation only bearable with the promise of gelato on the hot, still air. Nevertheless, we do not suffer long. As we order the bill we are delighted with a little sweet treat, some perfectly ripe local watermelon. To finish, the boys are served a shot of pomegranate juice, while the adults receive a little jug of raki as is the tradition.
Raki serves as an aperitif (before) or digestive (after) a meal and most restaurants offer it in its many local variations on the menu. Frequently it will also be served complimentary after a meal but don’t be fooled by the “little” jugs. This is potent liquor and more than a shot or two, particularly if you have indulged in a “big” beer or a carafe of wine over dinner, can send you staggering into one too many souvenir shops on the way back to your accommodation. We are instructed that Raki should be drunk the “brave way” – shots only, no sipping. I take a deep breath and am brave!
The Aftermath
After being so brave, I decide that I need gelato as well so we wander back towards the harbor. Gelato Follia is just around the corner and the boys have chosen more flavors. Now don’t get me wrong, this is no Venchi, but it’s still pretty good.
As we eat our gelato we take in the cuteness of the rest of the old town. At this time of night when the light is fading and the crowds are out it is completely charming. I love the vibe with its relaxed sort of bustle and the horses clip-clopping on the pavement pulling their carts of sightseers along with them.
Tired, but still reluctantly, we head back to our apartment. The boys spent the morning at the beach today which has tired them out and I did a bit of a walking tour around the old town and harbor area. I have clocked up 15,000 steps for the day and am ready to put my feet up for the evening. Perhaps I could comprehend another glass of wine, just to finish off the day…
Good To Know
Koutourouki is nestled snugly within the old town area of Chania. It, like many other restaurants in the old town exudes a casual charm and offers exceptionally good quality local dishes. Beware, however, as many others do not offer such a high standard of dishes and cater more towards the fast tourist dollar (Euro).
During our stay in Chania we booked Go Seventy, a one bedroom plus loft apartment advertised as “Modern n’ Renovated” in Konstantinoupoles Street, about a 1km walk into the Old Town. It had a private bathroom, small but modern kitchen and 2 queen size beds in a cozy 50m2 apartment.
Would I Return?
A resounding yes. I am still dreaming of those perfect zucchini flowers and the boys mention gazoza every now and then…
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