Gonia

I have escaped the resort today and find myself in Kolymvari, a small seaside town west of Chania. As inviting as the sea looks, however, I am in search of Gonia Monastery, just outside of town.

After a fortifying morning coffee, I take the short walk from the tiny harbour up a cicada lined road. After a kilometer or so I come across Our Lady of Gonia Monastery which spectacularly overlooks the Gulf of Chania.

As I enter through the portico I am struck by the hushed voices and sense of contemplation that immediately descends. It is a hot day and the walk has made me feel the heat even more. In order for a short respite and to put my visit in context, I seek the shade and cool of the museum first for a lesson in history and art.

History

Construction of the existing monastery began in earnest in 1618. Prior to this, a small monastery existed from the 9th Century further out on the peninsula. It was built on the site of an ancient altar dedicated to the goddess Artemis.

In the 13th Century, due to constant invasions by pirates, the monastery was relocated to the base of the peninsula. Today this site is the current monastery’s cemetery. Construction of the church was completed in 1634. From this time the monastery’s history is peppered with catastrophe. It was invaded by the Turks in 1645, 1652, 1822, 1841 and again in 1867. Evidence of the 1867 invasion is left embedded in the back wall of the complex. It was also caught up in the German invasions of WWII in 1941.

In addition to the monk’s spiritual work within the monastery and voluntary work outside of its walls, the monastery has served throughout history: as a school, a hospital, a military camp and military headquarters.

It is hard to believe that the site has been subject to so much turmoil. In contrast, today it is completely tranquil and I have time to enjoy and reflect on the spectacular view. However, in between the disaster, history did allow time for more creative pursuits.

The Museum

In the basement of the southern side of the monastery complex is the well presented and richly appointed museum. It contains an array of art and sacred heirlooms from the monastery’s long and troubled life. The contents a tribute to the peaceful times when dedication could be made towards finer, more contemplative tasks.

The Second Coming, by monk Konstantinos Papadopoulos in 1792, was painted during Ottoman rule. Nevertheless it depicts the popular topic of the Christian second coming of Christ, or Judgement Day. The general population (middle of the left side), await their final judgement by Christ, depicted in the centre. On the right, the fiery river to hell where those condemned reside (bottom right) for all eternity. Floating over the top of all are the blessed who have been granted entry to heaven.

Much of the museum’s art and icons are of the Cretan School, an important part of post Byzantine art from the time when Crete was under Venetian rule. The style typically combines both Eastern and Western artistic traditions and movements.

Good To Know

A local bus runs from Chania to Kolymvari on a regular basis. The trip takes around 40 minutes and is a pleasant ride along the coast road. Try to have change handy for the bus fare.

While the monastery open times are advertised as 9am – 7pm (7 days). Note that in July there was a midday closure for an hour. Check before arrival to avoid disappointment.

The tiny Kolymvari harbor is an ideal and a picturesque stopover. Plan time for coffee, lunch and a swim either before or after visiting the monastery.

Would I Return?

Yes.