This small homemade operation is run out of Polemarhi in the foothills of Crete’s Maleme region. Out on the Little Fun Train for the afternoon, we have already discovered the villages of Kolymvari, Marathokefala and Vouves. Each with their own version of charm and slice of history, from monasteries and saints to millennia old olive trees, the traditions here are rich and varied.
Another tradition is kept alive in the village of Polemarhi, that of rakomelo.
Polemarhi Rakomelo
Raki is a type of rather potent liquor made of twice distilled grapes. It originated in Türkiye and is now found rather wide ranging and varied across the Balkans. In Crete there is a variation called tsikoudia, a pomace brandy made of the grapes once they have been used for wine making. They are then distilled to create a version of raki used to make rakomelo which is flavoured with honey and cinnamon.
The set up here is simple. Down the backstreet in a shed behind the house, complete with chickens and dogs running around, is a raki making operation that follows the traditions.
It has been here for a long time. Organically grown up from home operation to business, nonna and the grandchildren hang around on the back step while we hear from the owner how the raki is distilled. We are offered a taste in little plastic cups. The products are lined up for sale in plastic bottles most noticeably used for water.
The unflavoured raki is strong. It packs a distinct punch but is otherwise unremarkable to my palate. Interesting to taste but not something I would kick back to drink after a Sunday lunch. The rakomelo, however, is one of the most pleasant drinks I have ever had. Smooth, sweet, flavourful with the subtle cinnamon it’s like drinking summer in the olive groves.
I quickly pull out the necessary Euros to purchase a plastic bottle. Later in the evening at our hotel, once the boys are in bed, I pour a little nightcap for Jason & I. As I drift off to sleep on the scent of honey and cinnamon I realise I have made a terrible mistake. I only have 500ml of this incredible rakomelo to savour!
Good To Know
Despite the basic operation, this is the best rakomelo (possibly liqueur) I have ever tasted. Don’t hesitate to use up your duty free allowance here. Buy up big, I wish I had!
I did find a rakomelo later at Chania’s duty free on the way out of Crete. It wasn’t as good as the Polemarhi version but it kept me going for a few months. Since then, I have only found it one other time and neither have been comparable the incredible depth of flavour we found at Polemarhi on the Little Fun Train tour.
Would I Return?
Yes.