Marathokefala
A short way up into the hills we arrive at the traditional village of Marathokefala where time seems to stand still. Here, the pace of life takes the slow road, with many daily rituals continuing as they have done for centuries. Here, we are also able to visit the cave and church of St. John the Hermit.
St. John the Hermit
On this beautiful mountain top, a steep 3km climb from the small fishing village of Kolymvari, sits the hidden cave of St. John the Hermit (Agios Ioannis Erimitis, also John Xenos). According to tradition, Ioannis is the saint who toured Crete founding the islands rich ascetic traditions.
Born to a rich family around 970AD, information on his life has been largely pieced together from his autobiography. This survives in two forms, a 15th century manuscript in the Bodleian Library, Oxford’s famous university library, and from a manuscript (Codex Cisamensis) copied and remaining in Crete dated 1703. The Codex is also said to contain a copy of his last will and testament.
His life was a life of solitude and travel and he is greatly revered in Crete. He is believed to have travelled throughout the island alone from “mountain to mountain” according his writings. He founded a church in Rethymno and built the mountaintop monastery at Myriokephala as well as a number of other little churches scattered across the island. For these purposes he travelled to Constantinople to obtain imperial privileges for the building of his churches. Once completed, he usually left them to a local priest.
He is said to have hidden from shepherds and farmers in this cave in order to continue his life of prayer and abstinence although he lived in other places as well. Most notably near the monastery of Gouverneto.
The Cave
Although he is said to be buried at Gouverneto, local legend has it that he was accidentally but fatally injured by a hunter and transferred to this cave here near Marathokefala. The stone on which human bones were later discovered is said to have been his deathbed.
Another local legend has it that even before the death of John the Hermit, his followers from Azogires offered up a fiery prayer to God. They asked that they would die on one day with the saint and to go to the Kingdom of Heaven. The Lord is said to have fulfilled their request, with all of them almost simultaneously falling asleep for good in order to join their mentor.
Whatever actually happened here, there is a distinct chill and eerie hush inside the inner cave. There isn’t much to see here today. The space includes sparce icons and a small altar. Once we enter through a stone archway, the lack of decoration is significant, reflecting the choice he made to live as a hermit on the bare minimum requirements to sustain life. We’re not talking minimalist by design but as a choice. It must have been a difficult existence.
Back outside and onto the train, there is still little in the vicinity. The views are spectacular, and there is something in the sun and the olive groves below that makes this simple life appealing.
Good To Know
The Little Fun Train goes through Marathokefala to stop at the cave of St. John the Hermit. The duration of the stop is around 20 minutes. This is long enough to have a look through and get a feel for the looming isolation of the locale. Stick close the guide to hear snippets of information. However, note that this is a tourist trail and not a history lesson. Facts and insights are light.
Would I Return?
No.