Nestled in the Rhodope Mountains of southern Bulgaria, Bachkovo Monastery stands as a beacon of Bulgarian spiritual heritage and historical significance.
We arrive on a sparkling Spring morning after the night in Plovdiv and a quick stop on the way at Asen’s Fortress.
The mountain air is clear and the sky inspiringly blue. Already on approach the monastery is enthralling. Enticed by the beautiful setting and the stunning building, I bounce out of the car, eager to explore.
Founding & Early History (1083 – 1396)
The monastery was founded in 1083 by Prince Gregory Pakourianos (Gregorii Bakuriani), during the period of Byzantine rule (1018 – 1185). Gregory being a prominent statesman and military commander in the Byzantine service. His dedication to establishing a religious institution in this strategically significant region of the Balkans reflects the broader Byzantine influence in Bulgaria from the monastery’s beginnings in 1083 and throughout the late 11th century.
The monastery was initially founded as a Georgian Orthodox monastery, and it operated under the jurisdiction of the Georgian Church. This Georgian connection is reflected in the monastery’s architecture and its rich iconographic tradition.
The monastery flourished during this time (the Second Bulgarian Empire (1185–1396)), patronized by the Bulgarian Tsars Ivan Asen II and Ivan Alexander, who helped to fund its expansion and renovation. This was the period of exquisite frescoes and icons, many of which are lucky to have survived.
The Ottomans (1396 – 1878)
During the Ottoman period, Bachkovo Monastery faced significant challenges. The Ottoman Empire’s control over Bulgaria from the late 14th century led to widespread changes in the region, including restrictions on Christian practices and the imposition of taxes on religious institutions.
Unfortunately during this period there were instances where the monastery was ransacked, during which time many of its valuable manuscripts and works of art were burned.
Despite these adversities, the monastery managed to preserve many of its precious religious artifacts thereby cementing its current cultural significance. The resilience of Bachkovo Monastery during this time can be attributed to its strong ties with the local community and its role as a spiritual haven for Bulgarian Orthodox Christians.
Much of the Bachkovo Monastery complex dates from the 17th century, with the Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa (1604) serving as its colourful centrepiece. Significant parts of the monastery needed rebuilding by this time and it was the Bulgarian bishop Yoakim, who added new buildings and restored the monastery to its former glory.
The monastery continued to thrive, becoming a center of the Bulgarian National Revival which started in the late period of Ottoman rule, lasting until the Russo-Turkish war. It was during this period that the famous Bachkovo School of Iconography was established, which produced some of the most beautiful and intricate icons in Bulgarian history.
Today, the church is decorated with 1850s frescoes by renowned artist Zahari Zograf and houses a much-cherished icon of the Virgin Mary. More beautiful murals can be found in the former refectory.
Becoming Bulgaria (1878 – present)
In the 20th century, the monastery was again badly damaged by fire, undergoing restorations once again during the 1980s and 1990s. Today, it remains an important cultural and religious center and is a popular tourist attraction. In fact, when we arrived there was almost no one here and, during our couple of hours exploring, a significant number of visitors have arrived at what seems like a rather remote location. Perhaps less surprising considering the monastery remains home to a number of valuable artifacts, including rare manuscripts, religious icons, and frescoes, many of which are on display in the monastery’s museum.
The physical relics are just a part of the monastery’s pivotal role in the religious, cultural and historical landscape of Bulgaria. The monastical complex having evolved from a medieval religious center to a modern cultural landmark.
Bachkovo monastery is rich with history and culture in a surprisingly remote location. But perhaps it is the calming atmosphere of this holy place with the stunning backdrop of the Rhodope Mountains that gives me a soft spot for it as I seek deeper exploration and reflection. This is even easier to tap into in the cool, calm interior of the sites two Churches.
Two Churches
Heading inside the main Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa (Cathedral Church of the Virgin Mary), the eye is immediately drawn to the cupola featuring a beautiful mural of Christ.
The 17th-century iconostasis and the icon of the Virgin are also entirely notable. In fact, believers claim that this miracle-working icon was painted by St Luke, despite art historians dating it to the 11th century. Pilgrims regularly pray before the silver and gold encased Madonna where queues form to place items before the icon to be blessed.
Like all churches, the cool, quiet interior give me an immediate sense of calmness. The only chaos comes from the profligacy of colour and images, the beauty an assault on the senses.
Back outside, a gate beside the refectory leads to a small courtyard. In turn, it leads to another church, the Church of Sveti Nikolai (1836). During the 1840s, Zograf, the ‘founder’ of secular art in Bulgaria, painted the superb Last Judgment inside the chapel. Notes on the works commend Zograf’s self-portrait (no beard) in the upper-left corner and several nervous-looking Turks (on the right).
The Refectory
The monastery’s southern side houses the former refectory, dating to 1623. This is well worth visiting for more extraordinary frescoes (1643) relating the monastery’s history. These were completed by unknown Bulgarian painters in the traditions of the Orthodox mural.
These frescos are one of the most celebrated features of the monastery. Significant not only for their artistic value, they are also prized for their role in preserving Bulgarian Orthodox iconography during a period of national revival.
The frescoes here are distinguished by their harmony and piety. They present us with Christ embracing world of the orthodox. The ceiling depicts the genealogical tree of Jesus Christ with roots in the Hebraic and Ancient worlds. The images of Hebrew’s kings (David & Solomon) sit side by side with those of the twelve ancient philosophers (including Socrates, Plato & Aristotle).
A small museum of icons also opens when there is sufficient demand. Today, we only have about 15 mins as the demand seems to be deemed insufficient.
Architecture, Art & Culture
Bachkovo Monastery is renowned for its distinctive architectural style, which blends elements of Byzantine, Georgian, and Bulgarian influences. The monastery’s cathedral is a notable example of this eclectic architectural synthesis. The various restoration projects to address the effects of natural wear and historical events also speak to the monastery’s importance. These efforts over centuries to maintain the monastery’s structural integrity also aimed at safeguarding its invaluable artistic treasures – both architectural and artistic.
The frescoes, created by renowned Bulgarian artists, reflect and preserve the rich artistic tradition of the time. Embedded in the architecture, this particular aspect of history intrinsically connects the architecture with the art on site. The museum with surviving icons, additional artworks and preserved manuscripts protects a wealth of art history.
The Monastery also holds a revered place in Bulgaria’s national and religious cultures. Art was interdependent on religion during the heyday of Bachkovo. Today, Bachkovo Monastery continues to be a focal point for cultural and religious activities. It hosts various religious ceremonies, including annual festivals dedicated to saints and major Christian feasts. These events attract both local and international visitors, providing a space for spiritual reflection and cultural exchange. The monastery’s role as a repository of Bulgarian Orthodox traditions ensures that it remains an integral part of the nation’s cultural fabric.
Good To Know
Bachkovo Monastery remains one of the most visited religious sites in Bulgaria, attracting thousands of pilgrims and tourists annually. The monastery’s significance extends beyond its religious function. It’s extraordinary because it symbolises Bulgarian endurance and cultural continuity throughout centuries of political and social upheaval.
Thus, the site is prone to busy periods. For visits that allow a focus on architecture and art, choose early morning when no events are scheduled. Check opening times or arrange museum access in advance if this is a must on your ‘to do’ list.
If you wish to enjoy a cultural or authentic spiritual experience, visit on a feast day or other religious occasion. Be prepared for crowds.
Would I Return?
Yes. Just the setting is enough to bring me back.
The church is rather lovely (even if other buildings weren’t accessible and I’d would have liked to have spent a lot more time exploring the museum).