Plovdiv has an Ancient Town within its Old Town and more layers of Old Town within this. Centered along ul. Saborna we walk up the steep cobbled street that crosses over Boulevard Tsar Boris III Obedinitel, one of the modern city’s main thoroughfares. Immediately we are upon a different class of historic building to the recent walk around the Kapana.
This area of the Old Town is an architectural and historical reserve spanning Nebet Tepe, Dzhambaz Tepe and Taksim Tepe, three (of seven) of Plovdiv’s hills. Arguably ancient, settlement here dates back to Thracian times (4,000BC) with Hellenic settlement (circa 342BC), Roman settement (from 46AD) and the Revival Houses dating from 1800 – 1900 AD.
The Ancients
Nebet Tepe
Settlement on Nebet Tepe is the heart of Plovdiv’s ancient town, dating back to 4,000 BC with early Thracian remains of a city wall, towers and ancient buildings to be found here. The name is derived from Turkish “nevbet” meaning guard and ”tepe” meaning hill. It’s incredible to stand here on the remains of walls used to guard the city in ancient times.
It might be hard to imagine life here that long ago but it’s not hard to imagine why this spot was chosen. Not only does the hill top provide natural defense but the views surely were (and still are) spectacular.
The Romans
Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis
Also worthy of being referred to as part of the ancient town, this Roman theatre, one of the world’s best preserved, dates to the 1st Century AD. Presumed to have been used for gladiatorial fights due to the discovery of remnants of safety facilities along the front spectator row, its capacity extends to around 7,000. The theater was rediscovered in 1970 after a landslide. Following this, major excavations and restorations have been undertaken and the theatre is once again in use in modern Plovdiv.
Revival Houses
Kuyumdzhiouglu House
(КУЮМДЖИЕВАТА КЪЩА РЕГИОНАЛЕН ЕТНОГРАФСКИ МУЗЕЙ)
Surrounded by the most picturesque gardens and spilling over the Hisar Kapia (the Old Town Gate), stands the magnificent house of the rich Plovdiv merchant Argir Hristov Kuyumdzhioglu. Built in 1847, it’s not exactly ancient, but it is a remarkable example of Plovdiv’s symmetrical Revival houses and held up as the peak of Baroque architecture in Bulgaria.
The impressive building is sometimes referred to as the “King’s Residence”, due to its size. On each of the four stories there is a large parlor, most impressive of which is the oval central part of the second floor reception hall. Another unique feature is the house’s own water reservoir (cistern) located in the basement and a secret exit leading out to the Three Hills through a tunnel. The eastern facade of the house is integrated with the old Roman fortress wall and is an integral part of the Old Town’s Gate.
The majestic facade, including the curved rocker eaves and well preserved rooms mean this building is a unique national monument and a prized example of Bulgarian culture embodied in a structure. The green oasis of the yard and its location among the cobbled streets of the Old Town, lend it to being a focal point of Plovdiv’s current cultural scene.
Regional Ethnographic Museum
Within the Kuyumdzhioglu House, Plovdiv’s Regional Ethnographic Museum is housed. Before the museum was established, the building was used as a girls’ boarding house, a hat factory, a flour warehouse, a vinegar factory and a tobacco warehouse.
In 1927, the house was proclaimed a ‘folk historical monument’ and eventually it was turned into a Municipal House Museum which opened to the public in 1943.
The exhibition presents elements from the traditional culture of Thrace, the Rhodope Mountain people and the people of the Sredna Gora Region (Renaissance period). Among the collections copper vessels, ornaments, church plates, lace, costumes, musical instruments and reproduced urban interiors can be found.
Georgiadi House
The Georgiadi House is another beautiful example of Bulgarian Revival architecture. Built in 1848 for the rich Bulgarian merchant and weaver Georgi Kendindenoglou, it was given as a dowry when his daughter married Dimitar Georgiadi.
The house features the Bulgarian symmetrical design popular at the time. The layout consists of four rooms per floor. Each room is situated around a spacious hall in the middle. With the total floor area at 251 sq.m., this an impressive sized residence 19th century living. A cute feature of the ground floor is a covered indoor courtyard that connects the street to the backyard.
Like the Kuyumdzhiouglu and Lamartine Houses, the building also boasts beautiful carvings including the ceilings, skirtings, cupboards and wall niches. Having been restored in 1960, the house is now used as the Regional Museum of History.
Lamartine (Mavridi) House
This house was built by the Plovdiv merchant Georgi Mavridi. Construction started in 1829, in another example of Plovdiv’s classical symmetrical house style. The symmetry of the floor design gives the building a sense of space. The generous use of bay windows adds a sense of lightness to the overall design. This is so despite the irregular foundations due to the uneven terrain. All the rooms, including the parlor, on the two floors of living area have wood carved ceilings. The niches formed by the carvings are decorated with landscapes or ornaments. This style of decoration is called ’alafranga’ (translating to in the French manner).
The building is named for the visit of the French diplomat Alphonse de Lamartine in 1833. This was the most significant event in the history of the building and yet it left a lasting impression.
This building is the only surviving example of one in which Lemartine stayed during his visits to Bulgaria. He was featured heavily in the works of Bulgarian historian Gaston Sergerar. Without these works, Lamartine’s declaration that “the Bulgarians were completely ready and worthy of their freedom” may have gone unremembered. French Prime Ministers and Presidents have since visited the house as part of commemorations to Lamartine. A museum exhibition dedicated to him was opened in the house in 1960.
The building has seen various renovations and restorations and also houses the Union of Bulgarian Writers.
Street of Crafts
The Street of Crafts runs alongside the Georgiadi House from the Old Town Gate. Along here you can explore work shops, cafes, pharmacies and other crafts all in typical Revival style outlets.
The creative spaces include pottery, bakery, felting, glass works, painting, weaving and a blacksmith. A nice spot to stop for a refreshment and purchase a souvenir or two. Although I can’t help but reflect on what ancient town artifacts might still be buried below this charming street scene.
Good To Know
We toured Bulgaria with Adriana from Private Tours Bulgaria. See also:
Would I Return?
Yes.
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