The Kapana is Bulgaria’s first ever dedicated creative district. Tucked in behind the Ancient Stadium of Philippopolis it is also known as ‘The Trap’. This is a direct translation and also a colloquialism. It refers to how one can easily become lost or trapped in the streets here. Although it is a relatively small area we were warned. The streets are at once confusing and disorientating, delightfully so.
A Nighttime Walk
We experience this area first hand as our evening here unfolds. As we arrive the cafes and restaurants are quickly filling up. I have a coat on but the locals are unphased by the chill in the air. Tables spill out onto the pavement and as the weather starts to warm up, every opportunity is taken to enjoy the evening.
It’s hard to believe that this thriving area of Plovdiv was derelict not so long ago. In an effort to clean up the streets and restore the central district to a productive and economically viable neighbourhood, it was turned into a creative district for young entrepreneurs. Since then, buildings have been tenanted for no or low rent in exchange for restoration and maintenance works. This has resulted in some great fit outs and businesses taking off: cafes, restaurants, wine bars, art galleries, tech and unique fledgling retail businesses.
We set out searching for a place to dine that has been recommended to us. Along the way we stumble on some fantastic street art – another delight that has been allowed to develop in this revamped neighbourhood. It makes the wrong turns and getting lost in the cozy cobbled streets even more worth it. After a few laps, a few more wrong turns and some more great street art, we give up on any hope of finding the recommendation and settle in at a table at Cafe Divino.
Cafe Divino
Cafe Divino is an appealing looking little wine bar in a street with a number of appealing looking little wine bars. After ordering a bottle of well deserved red and a cheese platter with some other bites, we sit back to enjoy our local fare and offer a ‘cheers’ to our successful day of sightseeing.
Our excellent Chateau Burgozone Esperanto tickles our taste buds with ripe berry and plum notes and hints of spice. The grapes are hand collected from the vines on the banks of the Danube River and bottled on site at the Chateau. With visions of picnics in vineyards on the banks of a the gently flowing Danube we prepare ourselves for our selection of Bulgarian style antipasto – olives, peppers, tomato and cheese (lots of cheese) and we kick back to reflect on our day.
After our meal selection and wine we are fortified enough to navigate our way back out of The Trap. Night does nothing to dull the colours of the art, in fact, the lights may even work to enhance it.
Street Art Tour
The next morning, rested and revived, we head back to the Kapana to further investigate this cultural hub and its street art.
Plovdiv began its bid for European Capital of Culture many years before it won the prestigious title in 2019. The Municipality of Plovdiv launched its first steps for the reshaping of the district back in 2012 with changes to the traffic and pedestrian arrangements. What followed was a rollout of phases that led to the European Capital of Culture title, bringing international acclaim to a project that had already won the hearts of the city’s population.
Nothing quite epitomises the success of the project more than the popular street art. A draw card day or night, the art works that are permanently on display in the public streets draw and delight visitors around the clock.
Last night this labyrinth of narrow, cobbled medieval streets was a buzz. Early this morning, though almost deserted, the vibrancy is still electric. I can almost feel the hum of activity building up, ready to launch itself into the day. Perhaps it is the echo of seven centuries of trade and commerce in this area. Whatever it is, the street art helps to define it.
The picture of a baker with his loaves depicted on a near derelict garage door with the wheat for his bread extending out to the blue horizon on the adjacent wall captures some of the history. A baker’s shop did indeed exist here once. Perhaps this image will inspire future bakers back to resurrect these daily offerings.
The Music Scene
There is certainly not many places like this, places that exude such a tangible sense of urban environment and atmosphere. This street beer garden perhaps reflects a colorful artist’s interpretation of a preferred beer garden view. The light fittings over each table give it the feeling of just enough permanency.
Klub Marmalad is a cool live music venue with a bar and restaurant. During the day the doors only a hint at the laid back music vibe that awaits. At night this is a favorite escape from the boring everyday. A place to unwind, relax and forget about our troubles over good food with some great music. Expect anything from live guitar to a new DJ or karaoke.
Just around the next corner is an escape into a quiet corner of Venice…or is that another hidden bar?
Good To Know
Close down Google Maps and put your phone in your pocket. This is a place that you want to be trapped in. If only for an evening, leave your troubles behind and prepare yourself to be lost in the Kapana. You won’t be disappointed.
We toured Bulgaria with Adriana from Private Guide Bulgaria. See also:
Would I Return?
Yes. This facilitates a delightful escapade into mindfulness. Sometimes we need to lose ourselves to find ourselves again.
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