“What are you doing on the 27th?”. “Nothing that I’m aware of” I reply. I am informed that I am being treated to a date night. Not just any date night. The Moscow City Ballet Company’s Swan Lake at the Dubai Opera. A couple of weeks before the big night Jason tells me he has booked for dinner beforehand. At.mosphere, no less. This will be a date night.
We arrive a few minutes early for our 5pm booking. Valet parking turned out to be easy at the Amarni Hotel. I crink my neck looking up towards the top of the Burj Khalifa at this angle. Although my office is only a hop, skip and a jump away in Emaar Square, the only other time I have been here was as a tourist. I did the At the Top experience with mum and the boys several years ago. This is Jason’s first visit after 4 years in Dubai. The lobby of the hotel is luxurious and hushed. We have to ask for directions twice, there are no signs.
Soon we are ushered into a lift where the only choices are C(oncourse) and 123. It takes nearly a minute to arrive at level 123 and as we step out of the lift, there is a full length window in front, allowing the reality of our breathtaking height to hit us.
At.Mosphere
We take the stairs down to 122 where At.Mosphere, the Burj’s sky bar and lounge, is located. There is also a fine dining restaurant of the same name. We take our seats at a window side table with sweeping views east (inland). I feel like I can see the whole world from up here.
We order drinks – a Coeur Ecalate for me whilst Jason selects a Singapore sling – and take a walk around the still quiet room. The views from all angles are spectacular. Straight down below us, I can identify the Dubai fountains, Dubai Mall, Opera House and a number of other familiar landmarks. Looking out we can see the layout of the city, its old suburbs and the new areas being formed. Towards the other side of the lounge we look south and then west: over to the Marina and JBR, the Burj Al Arab and the World Islands. The World Islands make more sense from this height.
We take some happy snaps and return to our table where our drinks are waiting. Mine is slightly tangy, the promised pink grapefruit more evident than the caramel flavour. Still, rather delicious. The decoration on the glass exceptionally intricate, a brush of white chocolate adorned with dried herbs, little flowers. Jason’s is sweet and pineappley and also delicious (yet sort of feels a bit out of place). We peruse the food menu. I select the seafood pasta with saffron cream and lobster bisque. Jason settles on the lamb back ribs only to find out that it is not available. Next choice is a veal schnitzel.
By now the sun is just starting to set. It has been a rare, cloudy day in Dubai. The air is still reasonably clear (sand free) though and I snap a quick shot of a red sun between the golden lined clouds. No silver linings here, this is Dubai after all.
Our meals arrive as the city’s lights begin to awaken. My seafood pasta is tasty, both creamy and light. The little pieces of prawn and scallop perfectly cooked. There are a few saffron strings on top to finish it off. Jason’s veal schnitzel is thin and almost crispy. It is served with a wipe of creamed potato, a salsa and some jus. Both the dishes are adequate, neither are worth the premium. Luckily the view distracts me from these musings.
Twilight is in full force by now: the lights below; are twinkling, the fountains glow blue below us and the rest of the shakes off it’s daily slumber for its nocturnal preferences. Dubai comes alive at night time.
A second drink in hand, we sit back to enjoy the spectacle. This time my drink is a delicious concoction of white rum and Amaretto. It is topped up with red wine and topped off with gold dusted grapes. Jason sticks to a simpler version – red wine straight.
I look around me. There seems to be a trend of a version of afternoon tea with cake. Many couples are enjoying a cup of tea with At.mosphere’s own version of a sweet treat – the chocolate extravaganza. Ice cream encased in a chocolate ball served with strawberries and orange glaze. The waiter brings it to the table and produces a little jug of steaming caramel sauce. With theatrical splendour, he proceeds to pour the hot caramel sauce over the chocolate ball which implodes in a caramel chocolate avalanche. I elicit a ‘wow’ and the ladies that are about to indulge giggle as they set to dive in. I double check the menu for the listing.
The remainder of the evening, we simply sit and chat whilst gazing at the incredible views. There are really no words for this. All sorts of thoughts flit through my mind whilst I am sitting here – the passage of time being the most prominent. What would this scene have looked like when the Burj opened? What will it look like in another 10, 20, 50 years? One day I may find out. For now, however, our time here has finished and it time to move on.
Swan Lake
Once we return to ground level it is a roundabout walk to the Dubai Opera. As the crow flies it is only a couple of hundred meters from where we were, not long ago, gazing down on it. To walk it though requires a detour through the Dubai Mall and either around the fountains or along Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Boulevard. Nevertheless, we arrive at the Dubai Opera, in time for a quick pre show drink with a much more grounded view of the fountains than earlier.
This is also an exceptional building. Having only opened in 2016, it is a modern take on a classic use building. Inside, the bars and reception areas all look out onto the architecture of the area. Much is still under construction. I do throw my head back and look up at the looming figure of the Burj Khalifa, trying to determine where At.Mosphere may be located in the waterfall of glass above us. The auditorium is a beautifully proportioned space with clean, flowing lines. The ceiling has paneled woodwork in a waved pattern which is both visually appealing and acoustically pleasing.
The performance of the Moscow City Ballet’s Swan Lake is beautiful and I thoroughly enjoy the performance. I do not think I will succeed in eliciting the same enthusiasm from Jason. I do not seek comment.
Afterwards we walk along the Boulevard back to pick up our car. On the drive home I watch the Burj Khalifa’s sparkling lights fade into the distance. This date night is going to be hard to beat.
Good To Know
Bookings are required for At.Mosphere, both at the lounge and for the restaurant.
Bookings are also required for tickets to the shows and performances at the Dubai Opera.
Comparing this performance to the Houston Ballet’s Swan Lake in 2018 is difficult. Although on the balance I would say that the Houston Ballet wins out. The set design and performances were superior in my opinion.
Would I Return?
Yes. At.Mosphere is most suited to a special occasion or as an alternative to the At The Top tour of the Burj Khalifa. If you are not particularly hungry, stick to drinks and dessert. There is always a wonderful selection of performances to choose from at the Dubai Opera. Both are worth it for the experience alone. Together they are a date night to remember!
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