Valencia

Valencia is a city with an old soul and a modern heart. The centre is a typical Medieval gem with a towering cathedral, Spanish and Roman historic architecture and museums to fulfill those intellectual yearnings. However, venture just a little further afield and you discover that the moat of yesteryears has been turned into sprawling parklands and swaths of land in close proximity (walking distance) have been transformed into modern day art and cultural hubs including the district with the Opera House x and xxxx all joined by walkways and undulating water features.

We begin at the Torres de Serranos (city gate) and plunge immediately into the soul. It is still early morning. The cobble stones are wet from a morning rinse, shutters open as we pass and the chill of the shadows between buildings prickles my skin as the dew drops dry from summer flower boxes.

Jason & Jasper find a bike shop and take off for a ride to explore the moat turned parklands and perhaps out to the sea. I decide to do a circuit of the sights inside the old town walls first – through La Sau to the Cathedral and along the pretty streets to the covered markets before joining the boys on their ride.

The Basílica de la Mare de Déu dels Desamparats (left above) and La Seu de Valencia (right). The basilica is dedicated to our Lady of the Foresaken, the patron saint of Valencia, having been constructed in the 17th century in Baroque style. La Seu refers to the district as well as to the Cathedral itself which was constructed in the 13th Century. Although most of old town Valencia was built between the 13th – 15th centuries, primarily in the Gothic style because it took so long, the cathedral incorporates early Romanesque, French Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical elements, not to mention the Arab influence when the Moors turned it into a mosque.

The cathedral also contains a holy chalice that is revered and has been defended as the Holy Grail.

From the plaza I walk around La Seu and through Placa de la Reina. There are lots of tour groups but I am happy to wander through the pretty streets including along Placa de Santa Caterina. I pop out of the Spanish labyrinth along Placa del Mercat and make my way to the Mercat Central (Central Markets) where I take in the sights, sounds and smells of the many and varied delights on offer at the stalls as well as the building itself. It reminds me a lot of the Adelaide Markets and I remember fondly a giant triple chocolate muffin from all those years ago!

In the meantime the boys have found Gulliver Park and the stretch of city that is purely recreational including a fabulous park, Parc Gulliver, and bike paths which lead all the way to the modern heart of the Civadad de las Artes y las Gencias (Palau de les Artes).

They pause for a play while I make my way back to the beginning and hire a bike, meeting up at the Palau De Les Arts.

After a quick look around, we follow the bike trail out to the beach through the city fringe, neither old, nor modern with a laid back vibe of everyday activity that no one is in a hurry to undertake. It is hot and windy. The expansive stretch of sand that we find as our destination is riddled with beach goers on sun lounges, towels flung over the back and bottles of lotion, sunglasses and beach toys abandoned for the sweet bliss of swimming, reading a book or taking a nap in the sun.

The route back to the old town is somewhat less appealing as we round the city through this grungy, tired fringe where tourists generally do not stray with their tourist dollars (or Euros as the case may be). Nevertheless the ride along Av. de Blasco Ibáñez is pleasant and easy and we round out our ride with a detour through Jadins del Real a beautifully landscaped park anchored by a large fountain feature. There are tree lined walking paths, sculptures, flower beds and benches to sit and enjoy nature at her manicured finest.

Once back in the city we return the bikes and do a quick circuit back through La Seu – gelato was promised! Then we circle back once more to farewell Valencia through the Torres de Serrans once more.

Good To Know

Although Valencia will always conjure images of oranges for me it is really known as a City of Arts and Sciences. The Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciencies combines a performing arts centre (Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia), an IMAX cinema planetarium and laserium (L’Hemisfèric), an interactive science museum (Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe) and an oceanarium (L’Oceanogràfic) with open structured landscaping and other architectural features like the covered plaza which hosts concerts and sporting events and the El Pont de l’Assut de l’Or, a rather iconic white cable-stayed bridge.

Bikes can be rented cheaply at a number of outlets throughout the city. Try Passion Bike rentals or Eco Bike rentals both located just inside Torres de Serrans. Do note, however, that the bikes are not permitted to be ridden in the old town area and need to be taken outside of the city walls.

If the old soul is more your style, while your day away with these sights:

• Edifice de L’Ajuntannent
• Torres de Serrans (entry. )
• Refugio Dalt/Ripalola
• Palau de Marques de Campo
• Entorn del Palau de le Generalitat
• Palau dels Borja
• Sant Pius V – Trinitat
• Edifici del Monte de Piedal
• La Sau
• Basilica Valencio
• El Mercat

Just don’t forget to pause to appreciate the modern heart that belongs to the merchants plying their wares in the market and those responsible for the vibrancy of the street scene.

Would I Return?

Yes. But I would be much better prepared for a very sore seat the next day!