Valencia

Valencia is a city with an old soul and a modern heart. The centre is a typical Medieval gem with a towering cathedral, Spanish and Roman historic architecture and museums to fulfill those intellectual yearnings. However, if you venture a little further, you’ll discover that developers have transformed the old moat into sprawling parklands. Nearby areas within walking distance have become modern art and cultural hubs, including L’Agora (Museum) and the Science Centre, all connected by walkways and flowing water features.

Valencia Old Town

We begin at the Torres de Serranos (city gate) and plunge immediately into the soul. It is still early morning. The cobble stones are wet from a morning rinse, shutters open as we pass and the chill of the shadows between buildings prickles my skin as the dew drops dry from summer flower boxes.

Jason & Jasper find a bike shop and take off for a ride to explore the moat turned parklands and perhaps out to the sea. I decide to do a circuit of the sights inside the old town walls first – through La Sau to the Cathedral and along the pretty streets to the covered markets before joining the boys on their ride.

The Basílica de la Mare de Déu dels Desamparats (left above) and La Seu de Valencia (right). The basilica is dedicated to our Lady of the Foresaken, the patron saint of Valencia, having been constructed in the 17th century in Baroque style. La Seu refers to the district as well as to the Cathedral itself which was constructed in the 13th Century. Although most of old town Valencia was built between the 13th – 15th centuries, primarily in the Gothic style because it took so long, the cathedral incorporates early Romanesque, French Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical elements, not to mention the Arab influence when the Moors turned it into a mosque.

The cathedral also contains a holy chalice that is revered and has been defended as the Holy Grail.

Central Markets

From the plaza I walk around La Seu and through Placa de la Reina. There are lots of tour groups but I am happy to wander through the pretty streets including along Placa de Santa Caterina. I pop out of the Spanish labyrinth along Placa del Mercat and make my way to the Mercat Central (Central Markets) where I take in the sights, sounds and smells of the many and varied delights on offer at the stalls as well as the building itself. It reminds me a lot of the Adelaide Markets and I remember fondly a giant triple chocolate muffin from all those years ago!

Cycling Valencia

In the meantime the boys have found Gulliver Park and the stretch of city that is purely recreational including a fabulous park, Parc Gulliver, and bike paths which lead all the way to the modern heart of the Civadad de las Artes y las Gencias (Palau de les Artes).

They pause for a play while I make my way back to the beginning and hire a bike, meeting up at the Palau De Les Arts.

Platja del Cabanyal

After a quick look around, we follow the bike trail out to the beach through the city fringe, neither old, nor modern with a laid back vibe of everyday activity that no one is in a hurry to undertake. It is hot and windy. We arrive at a wide stretch of sand filled with beachgoers lounging on sunbeds, towels draped over the backs and bottles of lotion, sunglasses and beach toys left behind as people enjoy swimming, reading or napping in the sun.

The route back to the old town feels less appealing as we pass through a grungy, tired fringe of the city where tourists rarely spend their money (or Euros, as the case may be). Nevertheless, the ride along Av. de Blasco Ibáñez feels pleasant and easy. We finish our ride with a detour through Jardins del Real, a beautifully landscaped park anchored by a large fountain. There are tree lined walking paths, sculptures, flower beds and benches to sit and enjoy nature at her manicured finest.

Once back in the city we return the bikes and do a quick circuit back through La Seu – gelato was promised! Then we circle back once more to farewell Valencia through the Torres de Serrans once more.

Good To Know

Although I will always associate Valencia with oranges, the city is truly known as a City of Arts and Sciences. The Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències features a remarkable blend of cultural and scientific attractions. The complex features the (Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia), a performing arts center; L’Hemisfèric, which contains an IMAX cinema, planetarium, and laserium; the Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe, an interactive science museum; and L’Oceanogràfic, an oceanarium. Open landscaping and striking architectural elements enhance the area, including the covered plaza that hosts concerts and sporting events and the iconic white cable-stayed bridge, El Pont de l’Assut de l’Or.

Bikes are available for rent at a number of outlets throughout the city at reasonable prices. Try Passion Bike rentals or Eco Bike rentals both located just inside Torres de Serrans. The bikes need to taken out of the old town, beyond the city walls. They’re not permitted in the old town.

If the old soul is more your style, while your day away with these sights:

• Edifice de L’Ajuntannent
• Torres de Serrans (entry. )
• Refugio Dalt/Ripalola
• Palau de Marques de Campo
• Entorn del Palau de le Generalitat
• Palau dels Borja
• Sant Pius V – Trinitat
• Edifici del Monte de Piedal
• La Sau
• Basilica Valencio
• El Mercat

Just don’t forget to pause to appreciate the modern heart that belongs to the merchants plying their wares in the market and those responsible for the vibrancy of the street scene.

Would I Return?

Yes. But I would be much better prepared for a very sore seat the next day!