Dalt Vila

Ibiza dawns blue and warm, just the way I imagined it to and after a morning at the beach enjoying Ibiza’s blue sky and water we head into Dalt Vila, Ibiza’s old town or ‘upper town’, the walled historical centre from the Middle Ages. Perched on the hill top overlooking the harbour it calls to me from the other side of the water at the the marina.

We catch the local ferry from the Marina to Ibiza Centro for a late lunch and then launch ourselves at the old town.

Ibiza is part of the archipelago of the Balearic Islands, well known for its lively nightlife centered in Ibiza Town and Sant Antoni, its abundance of beaches and water activities and also home to quiet villages and more relaxing pass times such as yoga retreats, scenic hot air ballon rides and serene sun sets. Today, I choose to immerse myself in the island’s history and culture.

Ibiza’s fortified old town, or Dalt Vila, was founded by the Phoenicians in the 7th century BC with eras of Punic and Roman occupation before being seized by invading Muslims in 902 to become the Islamic city of Medina Yabisa. In 1235 it was re-conquered by the Catalans and became part of the Crown of Aragon.

Enjoying the lovely streets that lure us with smells of garlic mixed with a good dose of that salty sea air, we choose a cafe on the waterfront for Jasper to get something to eat. He has a burger while I settle back with a beer and we wait for Jason to catch up with us.

After Jasper finishes eating, we decide to keep going. I want to explore the Upper Town containing the historic battlements, cathedral and museum that sit perched atop to Dalt Vila.

Jason rejoins us and we pass under a tunnel and after a short but steep walk, find ourselves on the battlements overlooking the low town, marina and harbour.

This area of the bastions, the Baluard de Santa Llúcia is also known as the Burbon Barracks, named as such for the 18th Century upgrades ordered by the Burbon monarchy. The building to the west of the Baluard along Carrer de Narcis Puget now houses the Museum of Contemporary Art of Eivissa although its original purpose was that of military barracks for which it retains its bomb proof underground magazines. The views from here take in the the harbor our on one side, and on the other, roof tops of the lower town from which we can hear the sounds of the previous night’s owls waking in the late afternoon.

A little further around towards the Plaça d’Espanya, we have sweeping views of the harbour. Being on an island, Ibiza has a strong maritime history with commerce dating back to the Middle Ages, largely based on the salt trade. This was produced in Ses Saline’s and supplied to Genon, Naples, Sicily and elsewhere around the Mediterranean.

Each of the bastions here is name. Es Revelli is a half bastion that protects the path into the enclosure from the Molina, a long carved out stairway leading out to the Santa Tecla Bastion, which after the extensions, no longer serves its original defensive purposes.

We take the steep stone stairway. It is well let and music wafts down however there is no light visible at the end of the tunnel and at this time we don’t actually know how long it is or where it leads. It curves around, past the busker with his guitar, and emerges onto the Saint Bernat Basion (Boulard de Sant Bernat) which is much higher up, due to our steep stairs ascent (Sata Fosc).

From here we look up to the original keep within the castle complex, built during the 14th Century after the Aragon conquest. The rest of the fortifications making up the Castle grounds include an artillery platform, barracks, magazines and cisterns.

Next to the castle is the Evissa Cathedral. The original church was extended in the 14th Century and further chapels were added in the 16th Century with restoration works being carried out during the early 18th Century, giving the church its current Baroque features.

Unfortunately both the cathedral and the castle appear closed today. Likewise the La Civia, the tourist office, which is situated in close proximity to both. La Civia is contained in a rather interesting building from the Middle Ages with a noteworthy late medieval period door and was the traditional office of the local legal authorities. Today it is not serving as anything given that it is closed. Although the views from the observation area at Mirador Plaça de la Catedral make you feel like you are on top of the world.

We descend from the upper town through he maze of sun dabbled streets with pockets of summer blooms against white washed walls. Just as I am feeling we might be walking in the wrong direction we pop out at the bottom of a long line of winding path on to a busy street lined with little shops and restaurants. Through a couple of large open doorways and we are through the walls of a lower fortification and back into the lower town area.

A brief gelato in Sa Renya and we wait for the return ferry back to the marina which then requires only a short walk back to the ship.

Sun drenched hed views of the Dalt Vila from afar sink into a darkness that sparkles as light illuminate the fortifications that we so enthusiastically climbed during the hot sunlight only hours before.

Good To Know

The Dalt Vila as well as the lower town is easily walkable. You can also walk here around the harbor from the marina although the local ferries are frequent and affordable. Seek out tours from the port in the old town rather than at the marina and in peak season, book tours and private boats/transfers well in advance to avoid disappointment.

Would I Return?

Yes. Especially if I could go back to 1999. I feel a bit like I have missed the boat, so to speak, here amongst all the partygoers waking after midday. I would like to take one of those private tours though and float for a while in the azure sea of the postcards and while away an afternoon kicking at the sand with nothing on my mind but music, love and what to wear tonight…..