Gibraltar

It is hard to believe that less than a month ago I was in Lebanon, at the far eastern end of the Mediterranean, and today, I stand on the Rock of Gibraltar, gazing out at the azure sea at the westernmost point of this vast world, considering what it would be like to think the world stops here.

Although I must say that with the first glimpses outside this morning, there was not much more than a few meters of a watery outside world to witness. Perhaps we should have packed umbrellas. It is rather exciting as we sit at breakfast with the mist drifting by to glimpse, in a clearer moment, the African continent on one side, Europe on the other. I run from one side of the ship to the other, much more excited than the children, to have this view, albeit misty, of two continents at the same time. As we are plunged back into mist, we finish up with our breakfast and return to our stateroom to get ready and organsied for the day ahead.

By the time we disembark, the weather is decidedly warmer, if not a great deal clearer, and we walk from the port into town and along the aptly named Main Street with its duty free, obligatory gelato shops and Marks & Spencer dominating the retail space. Just like any English High Street really.

It is extremely busy. We find some nice street scenery, some interesting buildings and some cannons which always inspire climbing if nothing else. Then we begin to look for a taxi. We had been making our way towards the cable car station but as we pass a couple and inquire, they advise us that the queue is very, very long.

We stumble across a taxi rank with signs for tours and join one. It is perfect. The mini van with guide that will take us to all the sights and back within a couple of hours. About the same time that we suspect we might otherwise be waiting in line for the cable car.

First stop is the monument marking the Pillars of Hercules. The Rock of Gibraltar, (Calpe Mons) being the norther pillar whilst the southern Pillar (Abila Mons) on the African continent is either Monte Hacho (Ceuta) or Jebel Musa (Morocco), depending on who you ask and which history book you consult. Either way, the pillars mark the very edge of the ancient world.

Legend has it that Hercules was to perform twelve labors (difficult feats), as a sort of penance to Eurystheus (his cousin) for killing his wife and children. The tenth feat was to collect the cattle of Geryon (a fearsome giant), located on the Iberian peninsula. No one in the ancient world had explored beyond this landmark and the pillars were marked with the words nec plus ultra (nothing further beyond).

The pillars as a symbol of a portal or gateway also appear in various places to symbolize this. In architecture, pillars lead into a building or important room and various countries and cities use pillars on their emblems or coats of arms (including Spain).

Once again I consider standing at the westernmost point of the Mediterranean, the gateway to the seas of the rest of the world.

Second stop is St. Michael’s Cave, the most famous of around 150 caves and grottos within the Rock of Gibraltar.

The cave was formed by rainwater seeping through the limestone to form the stalactites and stalagmites. There is evidence of prehistory here with finds of Neolithic bowl, artworks and human remains. Since then the cave has been used for a variety of purposes: for shelter, to admire, for picnics, military purposes, a hospital, parties, weddings, duels and concerts.

In the present it retains its status as an auditorium and is used for stage plays, operas, orchestras and rock concerts due to its acoustic qualities. Today, it is merely filled with tourists, including ourselves, and although the cave remains largely in its natural state, there is evidence of wear and human interference beyond the lighting and seating.

It is quite large and rather interesting but I admit, not as picturesque as Jeita Grotto (back on the Eastern shores of the Mediterranean) and there is not nearly as much time on the stop here to admire and explore as a tour of Jeita might allow. The outlook from here, however, is rather spectacular though and we have the added bonus of glimpsing our first Barbary Apes here. We are warned not to get too close. They can bite.

The third stop is really the pinnacle, not of the mountain but certainly of the tour. The road is one way only and extraordinarily narrow. At one stage there are sheer drops on both sides and I catch myself holding my breath. But our guide is experienced and doesn’t panic or laugh as an ape jumps over the windshield and tries to climb in the window!

We are told, with some urgency, to close the windows. The ape on the car seems content sitting on the rear vision mirror. While it is prohibited to feed the apes, the tour guides have special permits and as the visit here, often several time per day, they know most of the apes by sight and what they like to eat.

We hop out of the van and ensure we stay out of the way of the steam of mini vans coming through. Our guide joins us and, with the peanuts that he is offering, it takes absolutely no coaxing to have the apes jump from shoulder to shoulder, pausing for photos along the way, chasing the next peanut offering.

We are not allowed to touch them (no patting or anything as they may still bite), tame as they appear they are still wild animals after all. The boys are not the only ones that are delighted. It’s rather novel to be standing here holding an ape in my arms. Their paws are soft and strong and I am rather surprised at how heavy they are, given how light and agile they appear. They are also very keen for treats, given how well fed they must be.

We are reminded again, however, that they are wild animals. A mother will fiercely depend her young if she feels threatened and we can see some with rather large scratches and other injuries. Clearly there has been some discord in the shrewdness.

Even though there are great views from here, it is still rather misty and visibility over the other side (away from the port) is mere meters, if that. I watch the clouds blow up the mountain and hit the peak, dissipating as it rolls over the top most rocks.

Soon we pile back into the van and our fourth and last stop is a lookout on the northernmost point of the mountain. From here we can see the airstrip, runway and the road that cuts right through it. The day is begging to clear and visibility has improved, bringing with it blue sky and sunshine.

We make the rest of the winding drive back down the mountain and return to the taxi rank where we began. Making our way back to the High Street, we mooch around the shops for a bit, pausing for a gelato at Gelateria Dolce Vita.

I would like to walk over to the air strip after this. It is only 5 minutes away and it would be pretty cool to witness the cross road closed for a take off or landing. However, the boys are done and ready to return to the ship. I could let them go back and check it out by myself but we decide to stick together. It has been a nice day and there is no need to push our luck.

Back on the ship there is still plenty to do. We amuse ourselves for the next few hours with turns on the Sky Pad as we sail out of Gibraltar. Jasper joins a soccer match and Jason & I both have turns on the Flow Rider before dinner at the Windjammer Cafe, complete with freshly made crepes for dessert.

Good To Know

The Main Street is very walkable from the port and it is pleasant to stroll along and window shop for a while. However, the Rock of Gibraltar, with its apes, batteries, caves and views to explore and admire are really what draws the crowds (although the Main Street was plenty crowded as well).

There is no need to book yourself on a shore excursion from the ship if you can walk the primarily flat approximately 3km walk to the cable car base station. If the day is particularly busy, hot or you just prefer it, the taxi tours (GIP£20pp) is a good option to see the main attractions in around 90 minutes.

Do note that the tour feels a little rushed, with the boys this was not a problem, I doubt their interest would have lasted much longer than the duration of the tour anyway. Although perhaps a little longer with the apes would not have gone astray.

Would I Return?

Yes. I would return for a day trip, to visit the apes and to explore more batteries and forts, however, the call of Spain, just across the border, seems more enticing.