Lisbon

The hop on, hop off tourist bus operators practically mob us as we emerge into Lisbon from the cruise terminal along Av. Infante Don Henrique. However, we have our day more or less mapped out and we grab a taxi and head straight for the Tower of Belém. It is further than I thought and I am glad, after a few minutes in the taxi, hurtling down a tram lane, that we did not try to walk it.

There is something amiss in my initial request and instead of Belém Tower we are dropped off at Jerónimos Monastery. It is breathtaking in the crisp morning light but it is only 9:30am and it does not open for another half an hour.

Thankfully it does not appear too far to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos Monument and we walk over for a look. The monument pays tribute to Portuguese exploration and was originally unveiled in 1940 as a temporary exhibit in the Portuguese World Exhibition. It was demolished and then rebuilt to be unveiled again in 1960 to commemorate the 500 year anniversary of the death of Infante Henry the Navigator.

The main statute on the front of the monument depicts Henry the Navigator holding a carrack (sailing ship) with a further 33 statues along the eastern and western facades depicting figures from the Discoveries. A little way along we stop for a quick coffee and I pause to enjoy the heavenly taste of a pastel de nata at the nearby Vela Latina (velalatina.pt). Not only are the pastéis de nata divine, they also have WiFi and bathrooms.

Then we decide to keep going along a little way as BelémTower Belem is in tantalizing sight. By now it is 10:30am, the line up is already staggeringly long and does not seem to be moving. After a few inquiries it is evident that we will not be able to visit inside today so we admire the tower from the outside for a while and then turn back towards the monastery. I spend a few minutes kicking myself that I was not more articulate with the taxi instructions. If we had arrived here an hour ago, I am fairly certain we would have been able to purchase tickets and be at least in the line at opening. As it turns out, we join the queues at the monastery for tickets and eventually enter at about 11:30am after a 40 minute wait in line for tickets.

It is worth the wait. This monastery, of the order of Saint Jerome, took 100 years to complete, finally being finished in 1601. The intricacy of the carvings that decorate the entire facade of the courtyard and the golden sheen of the limestone give me a feeling of having stepped into a fairytale.

We join a tour and learn about the meaning of some of the carvings, the history of the monastery itself and some of the people that lived, worked and visited here.

In the refectory, the door to the kitchen is discreetly hidden in a corner, the original recipe for the pastel de nata was conceived. Later, the premises was used as an orphanage and today, the whole site is a UNESCO World Heritage site. A particularly interesting fact is that the building used to sit on the banks of the Tagus River and ships would moor just outside. Today there is a large landscaped garden out the front leading to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos Monument at the waters edge, indicating just how much land has been reclaimed along the foreshore.

It is rather too busy today to imagine this as a sanctuary, a quiet place of solemn reflection and strict religious regimes. Still, the visit is fascinating, beautiful and somewhat informative.

After about an hour of exploration, Jasper is getting hungry and we make our way back out to the Praça do Império (park) in front of the church and over the road to look for somewhere suitable for lunch. If it was up to me I would grab a quick sandwich and continue on with the sightseeing but today my vote is overridden and it does not take us very long to find the charming Restaurante Dina along the nearby R. Vieira Portuense, overlooking the delightful Jardim de Belém.

Seafood is squarely on the menu and we have a round of calamari, salmon and shredded cod (a local dish with the cod caught fresh). Jasper ducks off to the nearby playground and while we wait for our meals, Jason & I kick back with a beer (cerveza). ‘Sauld’ we cheers each other and enjoy the pretty spot we have chosen.

When the meals arrive they are large and the salmon is most certainly the pick of the menu, also being caught fresh it has been flame grilled and has a smoky sweet flavor like I have never quite experienced before. However the whole affair takes an hour and a half and after two beers I am chomping at the bit to get going back to the other end of town. There is still Castel St Jorge, the Lisbon Cathedral and the area around the castle and down to the port to explore with its picturesque cobbled streets and summer window boxes overflowing with blooms.

Thankfully Jasper hails us a taxi that drops us right at the castle gates, saving us the steep hike to the top of the archway at St Jorge’s. The short queue, to my relief, moves quickly and before we know it we are gazing out from the top of this thousand year old fortress.

We explore the bastions and ramparts and the Cerca Moura (Moorish encirclement) or walls, the first line of defense of the inner castle and we pause to take in more of the breathtaking views from every vantage point.

Next, into the castle proper we delve with its buttresses and towers. The ten towers encircled the citadel to protect it in case of a siege.

Although at times it was used as a palace, the citadel was not really designed as a residence. Today the roofs lay open to the sky and it is apparent that it was built for defensive purposes. The site really consists of a series of defensive walls and towers atop the hill. Of course for us these present various levels of difficulty to ascend. However, the views over the terra cotta rooftops of the city are well worth the relatively small exertion.

Lisbon is a striking city and even more so from this vantage point. The terracotta roof tops dominate the views as we gaze, casting our eyes downwards over the cascading roofs all the way to the glistening aquamarine Targus River and Lisbon’s own Golden Gate Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril).

After exhausting our time here we descend the hill on foot through the steep colorful streets of the old town that leads down to the port. Tavernas and tapas mingle with souvenirs, sardines and sorbet shops to make the district a walker’s delight.

The views are even changing and ever delightful from this part of the city as there is something new around each and every corner. Window boxes of over flowing summer blooms and buildings in an equally colorful bouquets of shops, restaurants and apartments captivate the imagination.

We pause at the spectacular Miradouro das Portas do Sol, a scenic spot overlooking the city, for more photos and a souvenir magnet purchase. Then we find the promised gelato a little further down the way at Gelateria Medronho, enjoying our chilly treat as we meander back to the ship for a Sky Pad session as we watch Lisbon and her Ponte 25 de Abril Bridge disappear into the terra cotta and aquamarine shaded distance.

Good To Know

The Castelo St. Jorge and nearby old town is easily accessible on foot from the port along Av. Infante Don Henrique. However, if you want to visit the Belém Tower, Jerónimos Monastery or the 25 April Bridge, it is advisable to take a taxi, tour or bus. The hop-on-hop-off tourist buses are situated outside of the cruise terminal and there are many to select from as well as private tours and tuk-tuks. Our taxi was €8 for the ride directly to the Jerónimos Monastery although in hindsight I should have insisted on going straight to BelémTower and followed this by walking back to the monastery.

On a hot day, consider taking a tram or taxi to the top of the hill to discover Castelo de S. Jorge and enjoy the scenery on the way downhill.

Summer is peak tourist season and Lisbon’s attractions are busy. Try purchasing entry tickets in advance from reputable online outlets or consider the Lisboa Card (www.lisboacard.org) which includes entry or discounted entry to many attractions and may cut down on waiting times. It also gives free bus, tram and metro transport.

Would I Return?

Yes. Lisbon is a large and beautiful city with plenty to offer visitors whether it be for a day, a week or more. We really only touched the tip of the iceberg here today.

You can comfortably fit the following into a (full) day if you have already pre-purchased or skip the line tickets:

• Tower of Belém
• Jerónimos Monastery
• Castelo de S. Jorge
• Lisbon Cathedral

If you have a little more time to spend in Lisbon, take a look around the National Architecture Museum and the Church of São Vicente of Fora. With more than a day there is a wealth of churches, museums, monuments and architecture to explore, not to mention the delight of wandering the streets of this beautiful city.