The Cedars of God, an oasis of precious cedar trees. Specifically the Lebanon cedar which is a species native to the mountains around Bsharri in the Kadisha Valley.
Once the mountains here were covered with forests of cedars. However, prized by people throughout the ages, the forests were depleted over time by the Phoenicians, Israelites, Egyptians, Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, Romans and Turks. Cedar wood makes excellent houses, ships and railways among other things.
Today, due to centuries of deforestation, only an area of about 10 hectares remains. The trees that are left here are protected and highly prized by the Lebanese as a nation symbol which even appears on the flag. Not only is this a UNESCO World Heritage site but it is an offense to cut down a cedar tree or any part of one and reforestation is taking place such that new saplings can be seen across the mountainside.
We enter the park from near to the top of the mountain where, a short way in, is the Trinity Square with the Lamartine Tree. Rudy Rahme, the sculpture of this rather incredible piece of art took seven years of summers (when there was no snow) to sculpt 70 human figures into the 39m high tree. The figures tell the story of creation and the earth. Some commemorative plaques mark important names and dates.
There is also a small chapel here at the top of the hill and Francoise, my guide and I, take a quiet moment to reflect. I can imagine how these 3000+ year old trees can inspire the name Cedars of God.
Firstly, once outside again and standing here amongst these giants of the forest there is a distinct pull of nature, a sense of something greater at play.
Secondly, if I stay still and quiet, I can hear the forest breathing, surely God or the gods are watching, waiting.
We walk through the trees. There is a well kept path through the forest and I gaze up into the branches of these ancient beings, silently witnessing the passing day. The dappled light plays with the senses and my skin prickles despite the warm day.
Our path is short, the walk no more than 20 minutes and we have spent a little under an hour here all together. While the forest is not large or remarkably different to the untrained eye from wandering through the woods whether in the Brindabellas or Fløyfjellet, it is perhaps the sense of history and importance to the people that sets this particular forest apart.
Here in the heart of where civilization began, knowing that the cedars were used by the Phoenicians (1500 – 300BC) to build ships, the Egyptians for some of their first hieroglyph scrolls and referenced frequently in the Bible, it is rather a humbling and meaningful experience to have trodden these paths.
Behold, the Assyrian was a cedar in Lebanon, with fair branches and with a shadowing shroud, and of an high stature; and his top was among the thick boughs.
Ezekiel 31:3, The Bible (King James Version)
Outside of the park and protected forest are vendors selling all manner of cedar wood souvenirs. I am very pleased to hear that the Forest Committee collects the fallen limbs of the protected trees from the forest and distributes the wood equitably amongst the vendors. This creates a sustainable industry for those who make and sell the souvenirs creating carvings of little cedar trees, figurines, magnets, key rings and other such mementos.
After a short walk through the park and some photos amongst the towering and majestic trees we have seen the sites and exit at the bottom of the hill and through the vendors to the waiting car.
Would I Return?
No. Not specifically to see the cedars although I can imagine that if I was in the area in winter I would certainly stop by to take in what I imagine would be a spectacular site of the forest blanketed in snow. I would consider returning to the area to ski at the nearby ski fields and then a detour would certainly be in order.
