After a day by the pool at the Mercure Jebal Hafeet followed by a not-so-successful trip to the Al Ain Zoo last night, I am keen to get out this morning and do some proper exploring.
First stop is breakfast and the pancakes are a hit, but shortly after that we are on our way to the top of Jebal Hafeet for some excellent views across Al Ain and more desert views over the border to Oman and into the empty quarter. A quick rest stop back at the hotel and we are (eventually) on our way.
After a long and winding drive down the mountain we pull in at Al Ain Park and walk across the lovely manicured lawns, circling the fort to arrive at the entrance to the Al Ain Fortress, the oldest fortress in the UAE. Diana has sent me a message, they beat us here this morning and she laughs as she realizes her house in the UK is older. Still, it’s an interesting cultural perspective. There is a small exhibition with an introductory video before we step back outside into the blinding sunlight to explore the rest of the complex.
Built between 1891 and 1898 by Sheikh Zayed Bin Khalifa (Zayed the First), Ruler of Abu Dhabi and grandfather of the late Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the first president of the UAE the fortress is seen as a symbol of power and control, especially for the time.
Al Jahili Fort is the oldest fort in the UAE and one of the largest in the country. The location was likely influenced by the availability of water and proximity to fertile farming land. The farm served the residence and surrounding oasis, the residence also served as a royal summer residence for many years. Given the drier, more tolerable climate in Al Ain, it provided an escape from the intense heat and humidity of coastal Abu Dhabi during the summer months.
After the death of Sheikh Zayed in 1909, his eldest son, Sheikh Khalifa and his family lived in the fort and farmed the nearby land. By the 1950’s however, when British forces requisitioned the fort for use by the Trucial Oman Levies, the fort had fallen into disrepair.
The fort originally consisted of only two buildings being the square fort and a separate round tower. During the British occupation barracks and other buildings were added within a new enclosure which incorporated the original fort and tower.
After a long reconstruction phase, the whole complex has now been meticulously restored using original materials and methods and incorporating new technologies and practices. Architects, engineers and builders have salvaged materials and studied the original building processes in order to deliver an authentic upgrade of the existing structure, preserving both the history and culture of the fort for future generations.
We first explore the tower climbing the sloping steps and circling the building on the second tier. There are a couple of small, empty rooms open that we venture into, looking up to see the craftsmanship in the roofs that have been reconstructed using palm trees overlaid by palm fronds. On top of that, although we cannot see it, is a layer of mud that packs and seals the whole thing together.
Across the courtyard is the residence. The door being suitably constructed with spiked protection that Harley finds fascinating.
Inside there is a majilis (meeting room) to the left. More rooms around the quadrangle are open, the configuration of which are fairly conformist – not large, wholly rectangular and rather sparsely decorated, if at all. Unfortunately the ramparts and towers are closed off so the last thing to see is the well.
I was hoping to see the exhibition (a focus of the video on the restoration) but it is currently closed. Whether temporarily or otherwise is unclear. It could just be Ramadan timing.
Back outside the fortress complex and through the park we find the Starbucks that we parked near and take refuge in the cool interior for some lunch and a coffee. Next stop today is the Al Ain Oasis for perhaps a little more history and culture.
Would I Return?
Not especially. The fort is both interesting and educational and I would return if I happened to be in the area again with time on my hands. However the size of the attraction and duration of the visit does not warrant a special trip. I’ll admit though, I get a little buzz from being able to recognize the logo on the Al Ain bottled water and know that I have been there.
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