We have spent the morning in Flåm followed by a cruise of The Fjords and now, after lunch, we board the Flåmsbana train to journey some more through this incredible Norwegian landscape.
The Flåmsbana is a railway journey that travels 20km from Flåm at the Aurlandsfjord, a tributary of the Sognefjord that we have just explored, at least partly, this morning, and up along the line to Myrdal in the high mountains. It returns along what is one of the most picturesque rail journeys in the world climbing and then descending 863m of elevation with villages, waterfalls and scenery that you can’t take your eyes, or your camera off, along the way.
We settle into some seats for the ride and the train departs right on time. Almost immediately, the views out the windows are of the pretty little village and meandering creeks with crystal clear water. If it was warmer I’m sure there would be people paddling in there but even as lovely as the day is, it’s not quite weather for that.
We pass the little Flåm church, built in 1667 in the ‘old’ town, just on the other side of the railway station to where we have boarded.
The plan for the line between Flåm and Myrdal was decided on by the Norwegian Parliament in 1908, however construction did not begin until 1924 with the line eventually opening in 1940. The trains were pulled by steam until 1947 and have been electric since then, when the Kjosfossen hydroelectric plant took over the power requirements. For the engineers amongst us, this is one of the steepest standard gauge railway lines in the world. Along the 20km journey there are 20 tunnels, 18 of which were carved by hand, and 80% of the line runs on a gradient of 5.5%.
The train stops several times along the way at sights. The Myrdalsberget is part of the Raller Road. Built in 1893 it has 21 hairpins that snakes down the mountain to the valley floor. If you choose to hike or ride along here as part of a more active day, it is considered a highlight. Another highlight, if you have time, is the Rallarrosa dairy, a traditional mountain farm where goats graze the fields in summer and homemade goats cheese is made and sold.
The next is the Kjossfossen waterfall. We pile out of the train and onto the platform. There is a lot of water coming down the 225m drop although now, at the end of summer, I imagine it is practically depleted compared to what it might look like during spring when the mountain snow is melting.
A loud music echos through the valley. The heads of a couple of hundred people on the platform turn to what looks like ruins on the side of the fall and a Huldra appears. She dances to the slightly eerie music and disappears from sight only to appear immediately on the other side of the ruins. Huldra are legendary in Scandinavian folklore. She is a seductive forest spirit who dances and sings, luring men to the mountains. Today she dances for a few minutes and then disappears again.
We reboard the train and continue on to Myrdal. The scenery really does remind me of Fjordland in New Zealand. Perhaps it is the time of year but the shades of green, the waterfalls, the striking views and even the sense of quiet is similar.
The return journey is equally breathtaking, retracing the steps. The Huldra appears at the falls again and the sun has lowered in the sky making the shadows longer, somehow the greens even more intense.
Back in Flam there is a little time left before we have to be back on board. There is a large souvenir shop which we take a walk through but more interesting is a small park behind the town’s hotel.
The boys jump and play, running off the pent up energy from a couple of hours on the train. I enjoy a little more time marveling at the scenery around me.
Good To Know
Tickets for the Flåmsbana can be bought in Flåm on the day of your visit. There are a number of departures throughout the day. The journey by train is around 2 hours in total.
Although I’m sure that many would attest to the existence of mythical forest creatures, today’s Huldra are students of the Norwegian ballet school.
Would I Return?
Yes.
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