Christiansborg Palace

Christiansborg Palace is set on the islet of Slotsholmen (literally castle islet) right in the middle of Copenhagen. As we walk over the ages old stone bridge this morning our passage is uniterrupted. I’m sure when the castle was inhabited by the Royal Family, this bridge would have been suitably guarded.

We arrive in the palace grounds and I have the feeling that we’re at the back of the palace. We’re walking under the porticos of the stables and are lucky enough to find the Royal Stables open and horses being prepared to be taken out. There is little fanfare and no one seems to mind us giving one inquisitive horse a pat – least of all him. After a few more minutes, four horses trot out to the grounds for some exercise. We stand and watch for a while.

These stables used to house up to 270 horses. Today there are 20 along with carriages and state coaches which are used for ceremonial purposes during state events and celebrations.

The palace itself, the third to be built on the site, was finished in 1928 after a fire burnt down buildings from the first and second palaces. The site has been used since 1167, when Bishop Absolom first built a large walled residence here, complete with lodgings, chapel and several other buildings, although his structure was later demolished and the first Copenhagen Castle was completed here in the 14th Century.

As we approach the palace I spot a sign for coffee and we stumble across the Bibliotekshaven, the Library Gardens. This tranquil space almost feels like a secret garden, bar the fact that it is too manicured to be considered hidden. This site actually used to be Christian IV’s Naval Harbour but was filled after the harbour was moved to Holmens Canal. The garden is flanked by other museums and historic buildings located on the castle islet.

As we approach the castle proper we discover that the tower is closed. Slightly disappointed but undeterred, we give the ruins a miss and make a bee line for the palace proper, donning our blue floor protector covers and picking up a treasure map to guide us through with clues along the way.

We begin on the Queen’s Staircase, often used as an entrance for events in the Alexander Room and the Queen’s Libraray, both easily accessed from this end of the palace and we enter the Alexander Hall, named for the frieze of Alexander the Great’s entry into Babylon after his conquest of the Persian Empire, at the top of these stairs.

The frieze was originallly intended for a room in the Quirinal Palace in Rome (the president of Italy currently resides there), that was being decorated to receive Napoleon, however Napoleon never saw it and the artist, Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen is now celebrated here in his home country.

Christiansborg was a working palace and the main residence of the Danish and Norwegian royal families from the 15th Century through to 1794 when the second palace burnt down and the family moved to Amelienborg. The palace in its current incantation continues to serve the Royal family, particularly in respect of royal engagements. It is also serves as the Prime Minister’s Office, the Supreme Court and Parliament meaning that it still plays a significant role in the kingdom’s official as well as ceremonial rule.

In a little room off to the side of the Alexander Hall is a room known as the Flora Danica Cabinet. This tablewear, manufactured during the years 1776 – 1802 by Royal Copenhagen under the reign of Christian VII, has been used for special occasions by the royal family since the early 19th Century. When not in use it is housed and displayed in it’s own ‘cabinet’ which is really more like the size of a rather large walk in robe. The original service was 1802 pieces, meaning that it could justify its own room, and it remains the most numerous dinner service of the 18th Century.

The Queen’s reference library belongs to the monarch and contains over 90,000 books, 10,000 of which are kept here. The collection, originally established by Frederick V, was badly damaged during the first palace fire in 1794. It was built up over time consisting of personal books of the monarchs as well as books bought especially for the libarary.

Most of the books were saved during the 1884 fire and the collection continues to grow. This a beautiful room and the little owl features catch my eye. I like the idea of putting a big comfy chair in the corner near the window and curling up with a cup of tea and a good volume, but alas, we move on.

Some other treasures saved from the fires hang in the Abildgaard Room, named for the painter who produced many of the works. Previously they hung in the Great Hall, but now have their own room entirely.

This one catches my eye mostly for the colors and clear solemnity of occasion. Christian I presents a female figure, representing the region of Holstein, a ducal hat illustrating her new status as a duchy, with the previous count’s crown (representing the previous status as county) lying in the foreground. The king is surrounded by his two sons, the future kings Hans and Frederik I and two additional female figures look on, both still wearing count’s crowns and representing the counties of Oldenburg and Delmenhorst.

The vibrant pink wall hangings in this room are much newer than the paintings. They were designed and hand woven by Danish weaver Goethe Nielsen in 2000 as part of the renovations undertaken for the Queen’s 60th birthday. Even the intricate designs above the doors seem to have something to celebrate in this room.

The mahogany table in the Dining Hall is also used for celebrations. It seats up to 50 guests and sees much less action than in days of old when banquets were a daily court ritual.

For larger celebrations there is the Great Hall, which can seat up to 400 guests for banquets, state visits and the popular New Year reception.

The modern tapestries that decorate the walls illustrate 1000 years of Denmark’s history from Viking to modern times. They were a gift to Queen Margrethe in 2000 as part of her birthday celebrations. The artist, Bjørn Nørgaard, worked on the 17 tapestries for 10 years.

The tapestry of Queen Margrethe II and her Prince Consort very much represents modern day Denmark. Other tapestries depicting earlier kings, queens, heads of state and important historical figures line the hall (all 17!). The tapestry of the Early Absolute Monarchs covers the years from the early 17th through to the early 18th Centuries.

Included in the colorful diorama are the figures of Karl X Gustav (1659), depicted assulting Copenhagen; the introduction of absolutism under Frederik III (1660); the Sun King Louis XIV (1638-1715); and the novel hero Peter Tordenskjold (1690 – 1720) seen on the left of the picture apparently reclining in a boat (he rose to the rank of Vice Admiral of the Danish-Norwegian Navy).

The Velvet Hall is where guests are presented to the Queen and royal family at royal banquets. It’s the ornate intimacy of this room that strikes me. There are various other smaller rooms each with its own history and purpose and many with large paintings of great royal families. Then, onto the Throne Room.

Just the idea of a throne room may be a bit daunting if you’re being received here in an official capacity. Perhaps less threatening and more nerve wracking these days than in days gone by where, if Vikings is a correct representation, you may not have been going home after the reception at all. There’s nothing particular to worry about today though, the Queen receives ambassadors here surrounded by marble and green silk decorations, not to mention matching his and hers thrones and the adjoining balcony where new Danish Kings and Queens are proclaimed.

Note the three lions in embroidered into the motifs of both the red and black of the throne fabric and backing and the green silk wall decorations. Lions stand guard on the arms of the smaller king’s throne whilst griffins adorn the queen’s throne. These particular thrones were made for the second Christiansborg Palace and were rescued from the 1884 fire.

The beautifully patterned floor has a practical application as well. It is made of oak, walnut and Cuban mahogany and the pattern forms a line running from the throne to the door opposite. This was designed to guide those walking backwards in the days where it was taboo to turn your back on the monarch. Perhaps, all in all, not quite as ornate as the throne room in The Hermitage, but still, rather impressive.

The final room in the tour is the Tower Hall with tapestries and a very ornate piano, a gift for Christian X and Queen Alexandrine for their silver wedding in 1923. Interestingly, the sides are decorated with paintings in miniature and rhymes from a Danish folk Ballard called “Linden Kirsten” (Little Kirsten), telling a tale of unhappy love – one wonders whether this was an entirely appropriate silver wedding gift.

The tapestries are exquisite, another gift, this time from the city of Aarhus. They show scenes from Danish folk ballads. Designed by artist Joakim Skovgaard, the weavers were lead by Skovgaard’s daughter and woven onsite in this room between 1925 and 1929.

As we exit down the King’s Staircase and remove our shoe covers, it’s nice to see a palace that retains so much history yet is still very much operational in many ways, particularly in terms of housing parliamentary and judicial offices. It is also somewhat refreshing to have less emphasis on battles and wars than many palaces can claim.

The Danish certainly do seem to be rather more laid back than many of their European counterparts. I wonder if this is because of their long history of a ruling monarchy or in spite of it.

Would I Return?

Yes. Christiansborg Palace is more interesting and more accessible in terms of what is open to the public than Amalienborg Palace, it also has a much more modern and relevant feel than Rosenborg which today operates more as a museum than a working palace.

Note: the descriptions used in this post are a combination of the author’s opinion and individual research as well as information that is available and displayed in the various rooms of the palace.