Beirut

I find myself in Beirut for work, having arrived late last night and worked all day today, I leave the office feeling less than energetic.  There is more work to do but I need a walk and a chance to clear my head.  Historical Downtown Beirut is waiting and I don’t want to take it in my stride.

Work shoes have been swapped for walking shoes as I head out from the hotel.  I have an hour or so until it gets dark and it feels good to stretch my legs.  I head back towards the Beirut Souks where I had lunch earlier today.  This is a newly developed commercial area consisting of shops, restaurants, cafes, a cinema complex and children’s science museum.  The souk area, was the site of the original souks, the heart of the Beirut shopping scene before the civil war.

I come out the other side and follow the picturesque Al Lenbi towards Nijmeh Square (Place de l’Étoile) and its clock tower at the heart of the historic centre.  This whole area has been painstakingly restored since the war, the extent of the restorations only really recognizable when compared to the areas that have had little or no attention.  It’s a stark contrast which, as I walk through downtown Beirut, I am as yet unaware of.

The soccer World Cup is in full swing and there are people starting to fill up the restaurants in front of the big screens, clearly set up for the purpose.  I get the feeling that I’m a bit early for the action.  Australia is down 2-0 against Peru as I pass one of the big screens, however, I have more pressing sights to see.

I round a corner and all of a sudden, completely unexpectedly laid out in front of me is an archaeological site.  The site itself is known as the Garden of Forgiveness is a collaborative project commemorating the Lebanese Civil War and located on the Green Line, the Muslim/Christian divide.  It contains uncovered remains from over 15 civilizations, most importantly, the Roman city of Berytus, considered the Roman centre of the Eastern Mediterranean (Anatolia).  It is surrounded by three mosques and three churches (Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Maronite).  The impressive columns that stand demark the site of the Roman Cardo Maximus, the main or central street running north-south through the ancient city.

Slightly bewildered about stumbling across something so ancient, the equivalent of the Roman Forum, here in the middle of the city, I walk past the St George Maronite Church (which appears closed) as the bell tolls.  As I round the corner to the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque (Blue Mosque).  This mighty mosque is a Sunni Muslim mosque with 72m high minarets.  Unlike the other religious building it’s new, having been inaugurated in 2008, and I can’t help but wonder what sort of relics have been buried under the foundations given what sits right next to it.

I cross the road to have a look at Marty’s Square, named in 1931 to commemorate the martyrs executed on the site whilst under Ottoman rule.  It’s a little eerie knowing that it’s not all that long ago you couldn’t just walk down this street.

I cut back through the central downtown area, past the Mansour (Amir) Assaf Mosque, built in the latter half of the 16th century which sits next to a park with a Chanel boutique across the road.  No one sitting in the Tuesday evening traffic seem to bat an eyelid at this contrast.

On the other side of the small centre ville, I loop back around past the top of the souk area with it’s I love Beirut sign and make my way back into the streets to find the Roman Baths.  I’m not sure exactly what I expected, whatever it was, it certainly wasn’t this.  Once again, sitting out in what has been made a park, is an ancient feature that no one seems surprised by except me.

I feel like there should be tourists all round, like there would be at the Roman Forum or the Parthenon.  There are vastly more people taking photos of themselves in front of the I ❤ Beirut sign.  Instead, there is a couple sitting on a bench with a young girl running around and one or two businessmen wandering through on their way home from the office.

The Romans seemed to love their baths and while there doesn’t appear to be any free flowing therapeutic Tbilisi style waters here, it’s clear this was a centerpiece of Roman city life given the remains of the scale of the infrastructure.  From  here I can see the back of the Grand Serail (Government Palace) I walk up one road that is blocked off with security so I walk around the block passing the St Louis Catholic Church, built in 1864.  The front is just as lovely but the doors are closed so I can’t take a peek inside.

Likewise the road from this side up to the Palace is also heavily guarded.  I decide not to try my luck and walk back towards the souks along Rue Weygand where I linger in Imam Ouzai Square,  for a bit.  This square has clearly been redeveloped as part of the CBD project though it is nice to note the historic features that have been preserved.  The tiled floor contains outlines of the ancient Roman pavement and integrates what remains of the Zawiyat Ibn Arraq, the prayer corner of what used to be a part of a hospice complex.

Behind this is the Bab Idriss, which refers to the street and the area the souks are located on.  The souks themselves: Souk Tawileh; Souk Sayyour and the Gold Souk drift off into the pedestrian area.  By now there are people out and about, filling up the restaurants, cafes, shops and streets.  

No one is marveling at the buildings or the historic sights.  They are shopping and eating, meeting friends, talking on phones and taking selfies.  Beirut, it seems, takes history very much in its stride.

Would I Return?

Yes.  Beirut has a long and somewhat troubled history but the people are friendly and hospitable.  It is a place where life is celebrated.