I’m glad I know what to expect. After hearing that Tbilisi is famous for its hot sulphur baths (the name Tbilisi means ‘hot city’), I do a little research. This means I am not only prepared for the experience (as much as possible) but able to enjoy it all the more.
For example, I know to pack soap, slippers and a towel to take with me. You can usually buy or hire these at the baths for a small extra fee but I’m happy to have brought my own along.
I know to leave my jewelry behind, or at least ensure to take it off and leave it with my belongings before getting into the hot baths – the water will tarnish any silver jewelry and I don’t think it’s that good for other types of metals either.
I know I have to get naked. Now some people are used to this – there are Moroccan baths, Turkish baths and various European saunas, spas, beaches and perhaps even ice baths where people are used to getting naked all over the place. I braved a topless beach once, a long, long time ago, only to have a very embarrassing slip (it wasn’t really a beach at all but a rocky waters edge in Croatia) from which my pride has never really quite recovered. It took my bruised tailbone a while as well. Somewhat scarred from this experience I am a bit nervous, however, after a few days of getting used to the idea, I am feeling surprisingly comfortable with the idea.
I also know to leave the door unlocked so that, after we have had time to shower (with soap) and get used to the water for a bit, the masseuse can enter without us needing to get out of the baths and hop (naked!) over to the door.
Di and I have been exploring Tbilisi all day. After a short rest at the hotel, we head out, bags packed with one requirement: to find some baths before dinner. After all, no trip to Georgia is complete without a visit to a traditional bath house.
In hindsight, given all my research and preparation, I should have realised that booking is a good idea. It’s a busy weekend and it seems that Friday evening is bath house peak hour. We’re a little disappointed when our first few inquiries lead to no options. We can book in but our booking won’t be for a couple more hours. I expect to be well and truly in bed and asleep by then!
Not wanting to miss out entirely, we secure a booking for tomorrow night. Although we are required to prepay, we figure that it will be a nice end to the day after our tour of the Kakheti Region. Bath time secured, we wander off to find somewhere for a drink instead, perhaps dinner.
While it’s not yet dark, we’re starting to feel a little weary of walking. We head up the hill on the east side of the sulphur baths and find a nice terrace bar, looking back over the bath house roofs. After waiting a good 15 minutes to place an order, however, we give up and make our way back downstairs. Next door happens to be an appropriate looking bath house and where 20 mintues ago it appeared completely crowded, it now looks decidedly less chaotic and we try our luck one last time.
Sure enough the hostess at Bohema Sulfur Baths is welcoming and friendly and there is no jostle of tourists at the counter like our last experiences. She even shows us the rooms and we secure one of the bigger ones (room 4) with a tub big enough for two, a change room and a large marble slab where I’m guessing the scrubbing and rubbing takes place.
Excited rather than nervous we undress and shower, lowering ourselves into the hot water slowly. It’s nice and as I begin to relax, Di doesn’t seem quite as tolerant of the heat as, after about 10 minutes, she’s out and under a cold shower. As she’s cooling off, the masseuse enters and I am ordered out of the tub and onto the slab. I lay down and the scrubbing begins. She’s using a bit scrubbing mitt which I find neither too hard nor too soft. I can certainly say she’s thorough, flipping me over and scrubbing front, arms, legs and everything in between! I feel a bit tingly all over until I hear the bucket being filled and brace myself for the hot water being tossed unceremoniously over my body.
Next comes the soap. This bit is rather divine. A pillowcase filled with soapy bubbles rubbed from head to toe. This is followed by an excellent massage, once again not too soft and not stopping just short of the intensity of a sports massage. Whatever it is she certainly hits the spot and 20 mins later as I lower myself, less gingerly this time, back into the hot bath, I feel squeaky clean and thoroughly, thoroughly relaxed.
I enjoy the rest of my soak, floating around in the hot water as Di receives her treatment. After a bit more of a relax in the tub we figure our time is nearly up. We make our way back out to the (much less slippery) change room.
A couple of (fully dressed) photos and a re-hydrating drink of water later and we’re back out on the street. It’s night time now and definitely time for dinner although I think if I went straight to bed now, I would be able to keep this floaty feeling through my dreams until morning.
Good To Know
The above experience is at the ‘Bath House’ listed on Google Maps as simply ‘bath house’. It’s on a street aptly called Abano II Dead End right next to the Marani Restaurant & Bar.
We did go back to Chreli Abano for the bath that we had booked earlier that night. I enjoyed the ‘Bath House’ experience more. The room at the Chreli Abano was bigger – it had hot and cold tubs and a sauna, but in my opinion the Bath House was better. The room was nicer (although smaller), the bath was much cleaner and perhaps most importantly, the scrub and massage were far superior. She had strong hands and knew exactly what to do with them. Given the choice my hour would be spent with her – bath optional!
Would I Return?
Yes. Any time I’m tired, have a headache, haven’t slept that well, have a sore neck, sore feet, it’s been a long day at work, need some quiet time, deserve a treat….who am I kidding – any time would be a good time to return.
