Sighnaghi, a tiny town in Georgia’s eastern Kakheti region, is an attractive town perched high on a hilltop with sweeping views across the Alazani Valley laid out below. Known affectionately as Georgia’s City of Love, the restored 18th and 19th century architecture of the centre gives the town a relaxed, easy charm focused around its tourist attractions. These include the Sighnaghi Museum, the old Town Walls, the nearby Bodbe Convent and its location at the heart of Georgia’s wine growing region with access to vineyards and cellar doors.
Sighnaghi History
The history of Sighnaghi dates back to the 18th century when King Erekle II of Georgia decided to build a fortress to protect the region from invasions by Persian and Ottoman armies.
The fortress was completed in 1772, and the town of Sighnaghi grew around it, becoming an important commercial and cultural center in the region. The town was also a popular destination for artists, poets and writers, who were drawn to its beautiful landscapes and historic architecture.
During the Soviet period, Sighnaghi’s importance declined, and the town fell into disrepair. However, after Georgia gained independence in 1991, the government invested in the town’s restoration and revitalization.
Today, Sighnaghi is a popular tourist destination, known for its well-preserved historic architecture, beautiful scenery, and rich cultural heritage. It is a center for wine production in Georgia, and its traditional cuisine, handicrafts, and music continue to attract visitors from all over the world.
After our stop to explore Bodbe Convent, we arrive in Sighnaghi proper, park the car and, declining the quad bikes on offer, begin our walk from the town square. From the Sighnaghi Fountain we walk up Kostava Street, pausing to peruse the traditional wares offered in the square outside the Town Hall. I purchase some beautiful felt handmade slippers before we complete our climb up Chavchavadze Street to the top of the Wall at the top of the hill.
The Fortress
It is only about 750m but this route takes in the pastel houses and narrow cobblestone streets of the town. It extends to sweeping views over the Alazani Valley with the Caucasus Mountain range visible in the distance.
The fortress, also known as the Sighnaghi Wall, was built in 1772 to protect Georgia’s eastern border from invasion. I can’t at all imagine trying to penetrate these thick walls.
The fortress was built using local materials, primarily limestone and bricks. The structure is impressive, with walls reaching up to 4 meters high and having a perimeter of 4.5 km. It also had four gates, which were guarded by the king’s soldiers.
During the 19th century, the fortress lost its strategic importance and began to fall into disrepair. However, the restoration works of the late 20th Century mean that today it is one of the best preserved historical sites in Georgia.
A popular tourist attraction Sighnaghi’s formidable walls offer stunning views of the town and the surrounding landscape. The walls also house a church and a small museum displaying artifacts from the fortress’s history. These help to showcase the culture and traditions of the Kakheti region.
St Stephen Church
The tiny St. Stephen Church, set within the Tower of Sighnaghi Wall is rather moving. Once inside, there is only room for a few people. We exchange a few coins for some candles and take a moment to remember loved ones and those departed. A couple of holy pictures and a small candle stand are the extent of the decoration yet the atmosphere is solemn and sad.
On the walls
Back outside and having climbed the steep steps to the roof of the church, the scenery is breathtaking. The feeling of somehow looking into the past remains as I gaze once again across the picturesque Alazani Valley.
Sighnaghi Town
Down the steep road and back to town we take in some more of the pretty streets. The pastels are set against the pale grey cobblestones. The fresh greens of spring are a stark contrast to the muted tones of the buildings. We find a bubbler in the middle of Bebrebis Park. A long, cool drink is a welcome refreshment in the warm spring air and after our steep walk.
There are a few shops opening and the restauranteurs are beginning to set tables in anticipation of lunch time. It would be rather lovely to pause for something to drink and to take in the town. Both the museum and a few small art galleries are close by. Nevertheless we have a lot still to see today and for now at least, our tour of Georgia’s City of Love is complete.
Good To Know
Sighnaghi and the Kakheti Region is best accessed by car. A guided tour is highly recommended as there is a lot to see. And, ideally, the roads are best left to be navigated by locals. Self drive is possible and buses do operate but you’ll certainly need to allow more than a day.
Would I Return
Yes. If in Georgia this is a pleasant day trip out of the capital, Tbilisi. It’s a wonderful dive into the fresh air and charming surroundings of the countryside. The lure of a vineyard or two doesn’t hurt either. I’m also wishing I’d had the courage to try some of that whiskey.
