Bodbe Convent, the revered final resting place of St Nino, is set among tall cypresses. The convent (monastery) is located 2km south of Sighnaghi, a picturesque little town along a picturesque winding country road.
History
The little church was originally built over the saint’s grave by King Mirian in the 4th century. Since then it has been renovated and rebuilt several times. Nino’s tomb, partly silver-covered, with a turquoise adorned halo, is in a small chapel in its southeast corner. Its religious significance means that it’s always crowded.
The convent gained importance in the Middle Ages when it became favorable for the coronation of Kings of the Kakheti region. A theological school operated from here as well as it being home to many religious writers and scribes becoming a repository for religious script and books.
Today we arrive on a glorious spring morning after a couple of hours drive from Tbilisi. Already enchanted by the sprawling green countryside, Diana and I amble through the stone and wrought iron gateway not entirely sure of what to expect.
The Church
The bell tower and little church are picturesque nestled amongst the tall foliage. I enter the church and cannot see anything in the dimness until my eyes adjust. The small, serene interior is ornate. Adorned with frescoes and an elaborately embellished iconostasis (the screen bearing pictures of icons which separates the church sanctuary from the nave) it is both beautiful and somewhat unexpected. Many old churches are beautiful and ornate. The surprising thing here is the location. So far out from the capital I was not expecting such a rich display to be here in the first place, let alone to have potentially lasted so long through the ages. Nevertheless the discovery is delightful and somewhat overwhelming.
Back outside and blinded again, this time in the brightness, I pause to look at the church’s carved doors. Certainly not belonging to the original church but seemingly old enough, a great deal of care and workmanship has gone into the design and execution. As with the rest of the church it is very attractive although it looks like it could do with a good oiling.
The Terrace
Despite the obvious charm and significance of the old church, a new church is under construction. Thankfully it is not designed to consume the old church within it and is taking shape out on the terrace and towards the track that leads down to St Nino’s Spring.
A steep path on the edge of the ravine leads 800m downwards to a small chapel. The chapel is built over St Nino’s Spring. The spring reputedly burst forth after Nino, Georgia’s female evangelist, prayed on this spot. Pilgrims queue up to drink and splash themselves with the holy water.
We stick to the terrace and admire the convent set on the hill: its tended garden; terraces stepping down to the edges of the steep hill; and the sweeping views over the Alazani Valley and across to Sighnaghi are breathtaking.
A few more moments of quiet contemplation taking in the serene scene before me are enough to convince me of a higher power, the desire for a quiet life and contentment with the simple things.
Before I fall too deep I am roused from my pondering by Diana and our guide, Sergo. They pull me from the edge (of contemplation, not the ravine!) to return up the terrace and back through the wrought iron gates for our continued journey.
Sometimes not knowing what to expect is part of the journey and part of the revelation! Next stop Sighnaghi.
Good To Know
Bodbe Convent is accessible by foot from Sighnaghi or alternately approximately a 2 hour drive from Tbilisi. The best way to visit is by private tour guide or car hire. Public transport by bus is possible but time consuming.
The Kakheti Region is worth exploring for its charming towns, vineyards and, of course, monasteries.
Would I Return?
Yes. For its beauty, contemplation and a taste of the simple life (if only for a moment).
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